I have a throttle cable convertion lol and pre mix would mean having to buy specific 2 cycle oil right, the OMP Squirt's 4 cycle Motor Oil from your engine which is how the 8's "Consume" oil ... right.. .?

So the OMP shouldn't, can't be eliminated or replaced really..
But the stock ecu in my case could be, the fans aren't even working properly currently.

 

Shouldn't be replaced at all.

Yes, the OEM OMP injects dirty 4-stroke oil from the oil pan and is the source of the "oil consumption of rotaries. Mazda likely did not have it pull from a separate oil source as a consession to the consumer-hassle factor (i.e. lazy Americans that can't be bothered to remember to refill one oil container, much less TWO)

dirty 4-stroke is very clearly inferior to clean 2-stroke on a number of levels, which is where the SOHN OMP adapter has popularity (blocks off OEM 4-stroke oil and uses whatever oil you supply it from somewhere else, whereever you put the 2-stroke tank)

 

If it's on a Haltech, it'll be just like mine on a DTA, and pouring the bloody stuff in as soon as you lift off to cool the chambers with fuel, and with the injection angles timed to direct the oil/fuel flow injection to right before the seals sweep over the ports.

Does mean 4-6ft long flames on occasion mind.

 

Sorry PhillipM, forgot that you have dealt with non-OEM ECUs as well.

My bad

 

How is your OMP controlled then, a DPO ?






That SOHN Adapter and separate oil tank, does it inject electronically or at a regulated free flow at all times?

 

My OMP? It's sat on the shelf looking sad.

 

It's just a flow redirection bit of hardware, no electronics to it. The OMP is still the part doing the work, it's basically the equivalent of capping off public water supply line to your house and running a line over to a well instead.

Same system, same functions, different liquid source.

 

So you are NOT using one then ?

 

Don't use one, just pre-mix.

 

See I LIKE that idea but people say it does not lubricate the side seals and damages the springs as well..

 

If you are full standalone without using the stock DBW throttle you can ditch the OMP....if you are using the stock ECU to run the throftle then you need the OMP to make the throttle work.....

 

SOHN (Single OverHead Nozzle)?

Wouldn't this negate the benefits of having the nozzles spraying directly on teh apex seals inside the combustion chamber?

If it just puts a separate oil reservoir to feed the OMP, then how is the pump generating pressure? (I understood the OMP to be a valve, & not a pump per-se)

I like the Idea of being able to route 2-stroke through the OEM nozzles though.

 

SOHN is the inventor's last name I believe.

It doesn't change anything about the OEM system except where the oil is coming from. It's basically a block of metal with machined oil passages and added oil hose nipple/bung that blocks off the OEM source and allow you to run a line from the adapter to a 2-stroke container.

 

And this adapter free flows oil at the same force/level at all times?

 

And that's what's got me confused. How does the OMP "pull" the oil from an alternate source?

Is the OMP an electric pump, or just a solenoid valve (I thought/had read somwehere here before that it was the later)

If you remove the engine oil source, you are also removing the oil pressure that comes with it

Unless the OMP "pulls" oil from the unpressurized crankcase, and is timed to open during the intake section of the 4-stroke cycle, using the engine's vacum to "pull" the oil, it seems to me changing the OMP's source would reduce the oil output from being a "pressurized system" to being a "gravity fed" system.

 

No, the adapter only changes WHERE the oil is coming from.

It works with the OEM OMP, and the OMP and ECU still make the decision on how much oil to flow when. The adapter only changes what oil is being used.

 

Agreed, it's more complex than this. I just keep breaking it down further to basics to try to clear the mis-interpretations that it changes anything about the oil delivery decisions and rate. It doesn't. It just changes the source that the oil is pulled from.

I don't know the details of how it still uses the engine's oil pressure (or not, or even if that is needed). I'm sure these details are what keeps people from making their own adapters, as simply a different source with no further complication would be really easy for anyone that can work with metal or whatever. It could be that it 'loop's the engine oil and uses the engine oil pressure through a mechanical means to generate pressure on the 2-stroke alternate oil source.

You would have to ask those more wise than I about those details.

 

listen to Phillip might also want to check with Daed https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...hlight=renesis

edit: oh right he was using the stock PCM. still thats a nice build to look at

 

I think having the Haltech's power switched wires to a stock ecu relay might be interfering with the Haltech's signal throwing it into loop mode, anyone concurs ?

I just went to walmart and got me 2 16oz bottles of 2 cycle semi synthetic oil for 3.97 each... Mixed about 3 oz''s into a 5 gallon container and am about to pour that in but first I need to fix the Loop mode problem and why the Haltech's control is being affected by it..

 

A well-known rotary builder (whose name I won't mention since I'm not 100% sure of the facts) told me it is possible to modify the ECU so that you can disable the OMP in the RX-8 without going into limp mode. However, this has been done apparently in extremely modified engines for racing.

Perhaps I misunderstood what he said since this happened during a phone conversation about something else (quotes for installing a Sohn adapter), but apparently there are people out there somewhere racing RX-8s without OMPs. I don't know who they are, so the whole thing could be a myth, LOL

 

Got 5 gallons with 3 oz's poured into the container before the gas was poured.. Still trying to fix this buzzard with the blinking coolant gauge when the 2 left most plugs are disconnected, there should be no link between the Haltech or the stock ECU therefore limp dilznick mode shouldn't affect this motor...

 

 

You can run the premix heavy enough with the excess blowing through into the exhaust for a race motor plus real race motors typically don't have a long term durability expectation between rebuilds in mind, but most people wouldn't consider this user friendly for a street car

That Walmart oil will likely result in your car smelling and smoking like a weedwhacker plus I know people who run heavier premix than that with a working MOP

 

Running a little better with just a little VE Table Tuning.

 

The stock ECU would try and go into limp mode by:
Closing the electronic throttle
Turning off the injectors
Cutting the ignition

The above things are all controlled mechanically or by the Haltech now.

If there is anything else we can do to help, please let me know.

Kind Regards,
Scott Hilzinger
Lead Technical Support

Email:scott@haltech.com
Web:www.haltech.com





So if all these things are controlled by the Haltech now, how come I cant rev up past like 4 to 6 k RPMs? Is it the lack of an OMP or maybe the plugs are fouled?
--Well a little tuning and Staging of the secondary injectors to come on a little later lets the motor combust better and allows it to rev up higher.