need sprak plugs and wires!
08-07-2008, 08:07 PM
#1
Bubblicious? DEF.
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need sprak plugs and wires!
so i brought my car into the dealer and i have cel's and need to change the plugs and wires... for parts they wanted to charge me 200 something and 390 for labor which is ridiculous..
so my question is does anyone know what kind of plugs/wires i should get and where? my car is 100 stock and ive been running the plugs mazsport recomended when i was boosted... is it okay to use those even tho im NA now? i dont believe anything the dealer says...
thanks in advance..
so my question is does anyone know what kind of plugs/wires i should get and where? my car is 100 stock and ive been running the plugs mazsport recomended when i was boosted... is it okay to use those even tho im NA now? i dont believe anything the dealer says...
thanks in advance..
08-07-2008, 08:47 PM
#2
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Here is a thread about(stock) plugs and get the OEM wires or any good quality ones. The NGK(plugs) are the best. They are not hard to install. How many miles do you have on them? In N/A engine they should last 30-37K miles.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/spark-plugs-cheap-107791/
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/spark-plugs-cheap-107791/
Last edited by Old Rotor; 08-07-2008 at 08:52 PM.
08-07-2008, 09:59 PM
#3
ROFL !
parts 200 is ok but 390 FOR LABOR ?!
I do it for you, but I need unlimited beer during the process. ROFL ! 1/2 hour I can get you up and running.
do it urself ... or have some local garage to do it, I will say 50 bux for labor TOPS.
oh for parts, around 80 bux for all 4 plugs, plug wires stock go for around 60 bux. better ones could be found around the same price (or maybe 80, depends on which one you go for) Oh remember, if u decided to go for aftermarket wires do NOT , I repeat, do NOT get Nology wires.
parts 200 is ok but 390 FOR LABOR ?!
I do it for you, but I need unlimited beer during the process. ROFL ! 1/2 hour I can get you up and running.
do it urself ... or have some local garage to do it, I will say 50 bux for labor TOPS.
oh for parts, around 80 bux for all 4 plugs, plug wires stock go for around 60 bux. better ones could be found around the same price (or maybe 80, depends on which one you go for) Oh remember, if u decided to go for aftermarket wires do NOT , I repeat, do NOT get Nology wires.
08-07-2008, 10:32 PM
#6
Rotary Powered Countryboy
yeah they prob charge 2 hrs at least yeah do it yourself or i'm with NYC unlimited beer and I'll do it too haha possibly will wash it too...uh maybe....
08-08-2008, 12:17 PM
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well i was just concerned about the plugs because im not sure how much the oem ones should cost and for the wires... can i get stock plugs at an autozone? also what brand is our stock wireS?
as for the 390 labor i was like get the fck out of here.. i dont know much about working on cars and the first time IIII did my own plugs i did them in less than an hour (mind you this was my first time and not 100% sure what i was doing) thats a ridic labor fee when i know it would take a retard an hour max to swap them out....
as for the wires.. is it hard? i cant remember how the engine looks but is the other end of the wires easy to access?
as for the 390 labor i was like get the fck out of here.. i dont know much about working on cars and the first time IIII did my own plugs i did them in less than an hour (mind you this was my first time and not 100% sure what i was doing) thats a ridic labor fee when i know it would take a retard an hour max to swap them out....
as for the wires.. is it hard? i cant remember how the engine looks but is the other end of the wires easy to access?
08-08-2008, 12:31 PM
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Lubricious
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Wires are simple. Just takes a bit of reaching. Just make sure you change them one at a time, so you don't mix up the firing order. There should be markings to distinguish leading and trailing.
Old wires might be reluctant to come of and require some twisting at the boot to loosen them up. To help prevent this in the future, apply some dielectric grease to the inside of the boots at the coil end, and to the sparkplug ceramic, before installing. Keeps out moisture, prevents corrosion, and keeps the boot from fusing to the surface. Just avoid getting it on the actual connections (you don't want to insulate those
)
For sparkplugs, it's also a good idea to use anti-seize compound. Apply sparingly to the threads, being very careful not to get any on the electrodes (leave a couple of threads on the end dry, to be safe). This will help prevent seized plugs, wich can be a major pain and expense, or even ruin your engine.
Dielectric grease and anti-seize are readily available at your local parts store.
I got my wires from Rosenthal Mazda, I like to patronize them because they are gracious enoug to host the TSBs.
Old wires might be reluctant to come of and require some twisting at the boot to loosen them up. To help prevent this in the future, apply some dielectric grease to the inside of the boots at the coil end, and to the sparkplug ceramic, before installing. Keeps out moisture, prevents corrosion, and keeps the boot from fusing to the surface. Just avoid getting it on the actual connections (you don't want to insulate those
)For sparkplugs, it's also a good idea to use anti-seize compound. Apply sparingly to the threads, being very careful not to get any on the electrodes (leave a couple of threads on the end dry, to be safe). This will help prevent seized plugs, wich can be a major pain and expense, or even ruin your engine.
Dielectric grease and anti-seize are readily available at your local parts store.
I got my wires from Rosenthal Mazda, I like to patronize them because they are gracious enoug to host the TSBs.
Last edited by Nubo; 08-08-2008 at 12:34 PM.
08-09-2008, 10:51 AM
#10
suck my smog
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I just bought spark plugs and wires and going to put them in today, I got the NGK plugs at smothers for 25 each and they couldn't get the wires so I got madzatrix.com 10MM wires for 100 shipped, and if you haven't changed your coils you should think about that too if you haven't done it in over 25000 miles I got mine on ebay for 153 shipped.
08-09-2008, 12:13 PM
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I just bought spark plugs and wires and going to put them in today, I got the NGK plugs at smothers for 25 each and they couldn't get the wires so I got madzatrix.com 10MM wires for 100 shipped, and if you haven't changed your coils you should think about that too if you haven't done it in over 25000 miles I got mine on ebay for 153 shipped.
08-14-2008, 10:14 AM
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Like the above posts mentioned, check out the spark plug removal page https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-spark-plug-change-31872/
The top two are trailing (if you have stock plug wires, the trailing plugs wires will have blue and green tape at the end), and the bottom two are the leading plugs. By top two and bottom two, I mean literally when you look at all four plugs as a whole, the bottom two are leading and top two are trailing. If you look closely enough they're marked T1 T2 L1 L2. I just changed my plugs last week for the first time ever, I could get to them through the hood, didnt need to get under the car or take drivers side wheel out, although it definitely would have made it a lot easier. Relatively easy change, quick and painless. Best of luck.
P.S. If you have an AutoZone near you, go there and ask them to print out the "How To" for changing spark plugs, the printout will have a diagram labeling which plugs are what. I dont remember exactly, but I think it may have even showed which coils go to which plugs as well (stock/no previous modding).
Also, thank you everyone who has contributed so much to this forum, I've learned alot and have saved tons of $$ with all your help reading posts here.
THANK YOU!
Edit: Didn't even think about this before, but you can easily identify which are leading and which are trailing when you take the spark plug itself out. (Has the part # on it) [This is assuming they were previously installed correctly...lol]
The top two are trailing (if you have stock plug wires, the trailing plugs wires will have blue and green tape at the end), and the bottom two are the leading plugs. By top two and bottom two, I mean literally when you look at all four plugs as a whole, the bottom two are leading and top two are trailing. If you look closely enough they're marked T1 T2 L1 L2. I just changed my plugs last week for the first time ever, I could get to them through the hood, didnt need to get under the car or take drivers side wheel out, although it definitely would have made it a lot easier. Relatively easy change, quick and painless. Best of luck.
P.S. If you have an AutoZone near you, go there and ask them to print out the "How To" for changing spark plugs, the printout will have a diagram labeling which plugs are what. I dont remember exactly, but I think it may have even showed which coils go to which plugs as well (stock/no previous modding).
Also, thank you everyone who has contributed so much to this forum, I've learned alot and have saved tons of $$ with all your help reading posts here.
THANK YOU!
Edit: Didn't even think about this before, but you can easily identify which are leading and which are trailing when you take the spark plug itself out. (Has the part # on it) [This is assuming they were previously installed correctly...lol]
Last edited by wheyluhai; 08-14-2008 at 10:41 AM.
08-15-2008, 06:22 PM
#15
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I went to mazdatrix.com and got there 10mm magacore full race wires and they work really well and you can use them on FI or NA my car is NA they look good too. And you don't have to take off the wheel I just went under the car. And had a long wrench removed the leading then the trailing then to put them back on I put the trailing then the leading on, do one side at a time it make it a lot easyer, for the wires they didn't say wich one was leading and trailing so I took them all off a once and matched sizes they are not all a perfect match in length but you can tell them apart. Once your done its like CHEEA!!!!
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