My engine rebuild.
I know we at BHR are always messing with you Socal guys, and we (sometimes
) make you feel guilty about getting parts elsewhere in the process, but our concern is always oriented toward the best possible outcome for your efforts and (in the bigger picture) could not care less where you get the parts as long as you are happy with them.
) make you feel guilty about getting parts elsewhere in the process, but our concern is always oriented toward the best possible outcome for your efforts and (in the bigger picture) could not care less where you get the parts as long as you are happy with them.It's what I live for.
Don't need any for a while...
Last edited by Brettus; May 23, 2010 at 05:28 PM.
Sorry about that they looked in focus when I took the pic but then again I'm running on 3 hours.
anyway so from left to right 585 side is pink,purple,grey,black
engine harness side left ot right is purple grey pink.
I don't know if you can see the connector on the 585 side.
you most likely need a better shot to see whats what right?
hahahahahah oh dangit!
I assumed which is something my first co worker taught me to never do becuase when you assume it makes an *** out of u and me. It also became my favorite saying.
I'm going to take a nap first and then get back to you.
thanks again!
I assumed which is something my first co worker taught me to never do becuase when you assume it makes an *** out of u and me. It also became my favorite saying.
I'm going to take a nap first and then get back to you.
thanks again!
Boostin'
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
From: Twin Cities, MN
I have seen rx-7 motors with serious electronic issues blow while running w/m injection, but it makes it near impossible with a good setup. I did a pull @ 15afr @ 400ish rwhp on the dyno, no boom boom. I also had a w/g failure on a car and a spike to 29psi through an entire 4th gear pull. No problems..
which was ?
Its not perfect but the the ports done... the polishing was a B1tch! As I said before I ran out of bits
The cast marks in there were horrible.
Quick question on the iron surface. Ive been hesitant to do any lapping because of the treatment on the surface from what I have read when that gets removed bad things are prone to happening.
Do you guys think I can get away the surface the way it is?
The cast marks in there were horrible.
Quick question on the iron surface. Ive been hesitant to do any lapping because of the treatment on the surface from what I have read when that gets removed bad things are prone to happening.
Do you guys think I can get away the surface the way it is?
I originally planned on hand lapping using valve grinding compound. I just want to get the wear off and start fresh. I imagine it can take a few minutes of hand lapping and be ok. I want to do whatever I can within the limited budget that I have to give myself the best outcome.
anyways
If I had initial data prior to porting id be more than happy to. I suppose I can compare data from a stock rene and mine and see what changes are.
The most dramatic cut that was done is to the APV port and valve. I'm assuming RB got their 265whp claim from engaging the APV at a lower rpm. Which I'm hoping the AP can do as well.
Side note can I get some opinions on reusing oil control rings? I have no bends in mine however 2 of them have bad buildup on them. Most of it came off after some parts cleaning and a blade, but there is still some residue.
I'm not 100% sure but from what I remember as long as there isn't any deformation on the o ring side I should be fine. Any advice would be great.
I'm not 100% sure but from what I remember as long as there isn't any deformation on the o ring side I should be fine. Any advice would be great.
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,880
Likes: 340
From: Australia
We would (Dealer) always renew Oil Control Rings, Springs and O rings (Inner and Outer) on every full rebuild (70's, 80's and 90's).
95% of what we did were Mazda Factory Warranty Claims.
Did you brand or Number them when removed?
They should go back in the same rotors and rotor side.
I don't think I would reuse OCR's, can you be sure there are No faint marks or hairline cracks?
IMO it is not worth the risk of assembling to find you have large Oil Use at start up/ running in.
95% of what we did were Mazda Factory Warranty Claims.
Did you brand or Number them when removed?
They should go back in the same rotors and rotor side.
I don't think I would reuse OCR's, can you be sure there are No faint marks or hairline cracks?
IMO it is not worth the risk of assembling to find you have large Oil Use at start up/ running in.
I'm driving my RB street ported motor right now, and with the RB header the car has a different sound. More throaty and deep. Are you doing any exhaust mods?
Good luck
I believe Racing Beat's HP numbers are almost always flywheel numbers as they use an engine dyno (As do we here at Mazmart). 265 is not bad for a peak number and it would be interesting to see, as some have mentioned, what the increases are throughout the range.
Paul.
Paul.
Thanks everyone and BHR for all the help... looks like the rebuild is on a long pause now. we had separated the oil control rings but they got all mixed up so I don't know what went where.
So its back to saving up money for new ones.
So its back to saving up money for new ones.
I'm confused why this would be an issue. You have 4 inner, 4 outer and 4 compression. All size relative to the rotor. It's not a big concern to have them installed in a different rotor than they were removed from.
Last edited by Easy_E1; May 26, 2010 at 11:02 AM.
