MMO-Caution as a premix
03-17-2010, 11:21 AM
#126
Administrator
As for the authority types well if you get Jeff and RG and enough of the other "regulars" here saying the same thing then the law has been pretty much laid down. Use a quality 2 stroke oil that is intended for use as a pre-mix. MMO is good as cleaner but its not a substitute for a good 2 stroke pre-mix.
the carbon bit was just me wanting to clarify that issue. of course there is already a sticky on that but ....
03-17-2010, 11:31 AM
#127
Registered
No argument there. I typically redline 4-5x/day on my commute. On weekends all bets are off. I also premix as a precaution and use what's recommended by the smart guys.
03-17-2010, 01:33 PM
#129
SARX Legend
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, , , I am definitely not!! I just add Lucas 2 stroke to my SOHN reservoir my gas tank and go about my business.Something keeps drawing me back to Lucas UCL however. I just trust it for some reason. I have been noticing since switching to straight 2 stroke in the gas that my backfires are less.
03-17-2010, 04:08 PM
#131
Trained true Killers
[quote=jmc23200;3474955]When God hands you lemons, find a new God lol Power Thirst
Until Mazda or any other company spends the money and performs research on premixes and the effect on the rotary engine, this debate will never end.
There will be no money spent on premix based on the fact that the EPA dose not allow on road vehicals to burn 2cyc. So let the debate proceed
Until Mazda or any other company spends the money and performs research on premixes and the effect on the rotary engine, this debate will never end.
There will be no money spent on premix based on the fact that the EPA dose not allow on road vehicals to burn 2cyc. So let the debate proceed
03-17-2010, 04:45 PM
#133
Registered
One thing that is seen on motors that run alcohol injection when under boost is a very clean engine inside. Brian's engines (BDC) show no carbon internally when taken apart. I looked at one on New Years. Just a little varnish but that was it. Even the intake runners were very clean. His engine would take very little effort to get clean and I'm willing to bet you wouldn't even have to scrub any of the parts. This was due to the fact that gasoline and not oil or premix is the single largest contributor to carbon buildup. Nothing else even comes close. Everyone wants to blame oil metering for carbon. As long as people blame carbon on that, they'll never get rid of it. It may contribute a very small amount but we aren't talking about the days of having it run down the intake manifold under the carb consuming 2 quarts per thousand miles. We're way past those days.
03-17-2010, 05:06 PM
#134
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
RG, what are your thoughts on premix reducing octane ratings? Think its a non issue?
Now If I can just find a good quality 13-14oz bottle to keep in my trunk to fill with premix. Regular oil bottles leak to much.
Now If I can just find a good quality 13-14oz bottle to keep in my trunk to fill with premix. Regular oil bottles leak to much.
03-18-2010, 12:40 PM
#142
went back to srsly broke
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I used to use an old gatorade bottle, but the cap kept on getting lubricated by the Idemitsu and leaking. Squirt tops are way better at getting the right amount of pre-mix you want.
03-18-2010, 01:22 PM
#143
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yeah I currently keep a quart of Lucas 2 stroke there with a squirt bottle top from the factory mazda diff fluid bottle but I find squirting it in is a PIA even though OZS are marked on the side of the bottle.. I used to used to use the Lucas "one shot" bottle and it is perfect to fit not the gas tank but only holds 5.25 OZ. and they tend to leak as well.
04-12-2010, 06:33 AM
#144
Registered
The "direct" cause of the failure was an injector not injecting enough fuel do to a small leak and one of my new ignition coils completely shitted out after 12k miles and that combo caused a super lean misfire and POP. His theory is that with my conditions it looked like i was doomed for failure, but the housing and seals seemed really worn, especially for only having that little amount of miles on the engine and it was both housings that looked like that, and not just the front one that failed.
04-12-2010, 12:06 PM
#146
um..not sure why you say that. Unless you tell them you're pre-mixing, they have no way or knowing nor will test for such. Not only that but by the time you run out of warranty it will be too late for the pre-mix to do much as the carbon build up from the gas will already be plastered on the rotor. Pre-mixing just lubricates it to help fight the carbon build up
Secondly, while failure is inevitable it's a matter of when the engine fails and prolonging the failure point which is why a lot of people pre-mix. Generally speaking, failure is inevitable for any engine, period. It's what you do that prolongs their life that matters.
Secondly, while failure is inevitable it's a matter of when the engine fails and prolonging the failure point which is why a lot of people pre-mix. Generally speaking, failure is inevitable for any engine, period. It's what you do that prolongs their life that matters.
Last edited by Vlaze; 04-12-2010 at 12:08 PM.
04-12-2010, 12:07 PM
#147
DD style driving introduces the least amount of injected oil and more constant RPMs, which produces the most wear.
At track events, you are at high load more often which significantly raises the oil injection volumes and the constantly changing RPM distributes the engine wear more evenly because of the different levels of load and changing inertial loads on the components.
The S2 introduced no changes that make it any more durable beyond marginally increasing the effective oiling under low-load and high-heat saturation (stop-n-go), which just keeps you out of Mazda's pocket a little longer.
Remember, all the injected oil does is remove heat from the components that are directly sprayed.
04-12-2010, 12:20 PM
#148
Correct me if I'm wrong but, I haven't seen anyone on here IIRC more than once if that, whom pre-mixed and had their engine fail pre-maturely, meaning before the 100k mark.
Everyone I read that had their engine fail might have ran a different oil that was being injected, but no pre-mix. I thought that was quite consistent.
Everyone I read that had their engine fail might have ran a different oil that was being injected, but no pre-mix. I thought that was quite consistent.
04-12-2010, 12:35 PM
#149
I'm not saying it's the answer, just stating what I recall from heavily reading on relevant threads. I don't recall anyone stating their failure and when discussing prevention they tried as pre-mixing being one of them. When most people don't have a failure they don't post on the site stating hey guess what, I didn't have a failure because such and such.
Plus what MM said mirrors those who did run 5w-20 only with no extra measures; they likely ran their car very spirited. I recall a break down someone showed us of a typical driven 8 with carbon build up as well as one with a very spirited driver who ran it hard with no build up and one pre-mixed. The last 2 were closely similar while the typical driver had excessive build up. I think pre-mix is a healthy addition to a typical driver if you don't have the means to do spirited drives depending on your traffic/location.
That being said, I don't believe the engine oil has anything to do with any of the failures, rather it's just the design and the carbon deposits that do them in. Changing to a different grade oil won't stop that, pre-mixing might help prolong it and the SOHN will just help keep improper engine oil from being combusted. That's about my view on it.
Plus what MM said mirrors those who did run 5w-20 only with no extra measures; they likely ran their car very spirited. I recall a break down someone showed us of a typical driven 8 with carbon build up as well as one with a very spirited driver who ran it hard with no build up and one pre-mixed. The last 2 were closely similar while the typical driver had excessive build up. I think pre-mix is a healthy addition to a typical driver if you don't have the means to do spirited drives depending on your traffic/location.
That being said, I don't believe the engine oil has anything to do with any of the failures, rather it's just the design and the carbon deposits that do them in. Changing to a different grade oil won't stop that, pre-mixing might help prolong it and the SOHN will just help keep improper engine oil from being combusted. That's about my view on it.
Last edited by Vlaze; 04-12-2010 at 12:43 PM.
04-12-2010, 12:54 PM
#150
Saying that any of the engine failure data is consistent is like saying that death is consistent.
It comes for us all, but there is absolutely NO common ground for any of the billions that have dies other than they are dead.
That is what mysticism is about and probably why this discussion persists in the first place.
Also, using this forum as a metric for "why haven't we seen more 100k+ mile engine stories" is pretty useless since this is a place where people go to vent their sense of failure, not where the average owner goes to trumpet his success at being perfectly average and uneventful.
It comes for us all, but there is absolutely NO common ground for any of the billions that have dies other than they are dead.
That is what mysticism is about and probably why this discussion persists in the first place.
Also, using this forum as a metric for "why haven't we seen more 100k+ mile engine stories" is pretty useless since this is a place where people go to vent their sense of failure, not where the average owner goes to trumpet his success at being perfectly average and uneventful.