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MMO-Caution as a premix

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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 11:21 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by SheffieldSteel
Zoom, it sounds like you're telling people: look for the root cause of the problem, and then address it logically.

That works for scientific/engineering types, but not so well for folksy/religious types. They prefer an authority figure to lay down the law.
it just seemed to me that when i re-read what i wrote before that i was endorsing MMO as a lubricant for pre-mix when that wasn't my intention. So i wanted to correct that.

As for the authority types well if you get Jeff and RG and enough of the other "regulars" here saying the same thing then the law has been pretty much laid down. Use a quality 2 stroke oil that is intended for use as a pre-mix. MMO is good as cleaner but its not a substitute for a good 2 stroke pre-mix.

the carbon bit was just me wanting to clarify that issue. of course there is already a sticky on that but ....
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Flashwing
I'd be curious to know if these engine's have anything in common.

I'm willing to bet most of them have owners that won't drive their RX8 hard for fear that it will fall apart.
No argument there. I typically redline 4-5x/day on my commute. On weekends all bets are off. I also premix as a precaution and use what's recommended by the smart guys.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 11:52 AM
  #128  
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by jmc23200
Your not one of those guys 9k jk

, , , I am definitely not!! I just add Lucas 2 stroke to my SOHN reservoir my gas tank and go about my business.

Something keeps drawing me back to Lucas UCL however. I just trust it for some reason. I have been noticing since switching to straight 2 stroke in the gas that my backfires are less.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 01:56 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by SheffieldSteel
but not so well for folksy/religious types. They prefer an authority figure to lay down the law.
An authority figure that tells them "i talked to my rx8 and it told me to use 2 stroke" .
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 04:08 PM
  #131  
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[quote=jmc23200;3474955]When God hands you lemons, find a new God lol Power Thirst

Until Mazda or any other company spends the money and performs research on premixes and the effect on the rotary engine, this debate will never end.

There will be no money spent on premix based on the fact that the EPA dose not allow on road vehicals to burn 2cyc. So let the debate proceed
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 04:13 PM
  #132  
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idemitsu for premixing, even though I dont premix...
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 04:45 PM
  #133  
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One thing that is seen on motors that run alcohol injection when under boost is a very clean engine inside. Brian's engines (BDC) show no carbon internally when taken apart. I looked at one on New Years. Just a little varnish but that was it. Even the intake runners were very clean. His engine would take very little effort to get clean and I'm willing to bet you wouldn't even have to scrub any of the parts. This was due to the fact that gasoline and not oil or premix is the single largest contributor to carbon buildup. Nothing else even comes close. Everyone wants to blame oil metering for carbon. As long as people blame carbon on that, they'll never get rid of it. It may contribute a very small amount but we aren't talking about the days of having it run down the intake manifold under the carb consuming 2 quarts per thousand miles. We're way past those days.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 05:06 PM
  #134  
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RG, what are your thoughts on premix reducing octane ratings? Think its a non issue?

Now If I can just find a good quality 13-14oz bottle to keep in my trunk to fill with premix. Regular oil bottles leak to much.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 05:23 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
RG, what are your thoughts on premix reducing octane ratings? Think its a non issue?

Now If I can just find a good quality 13-14oz bottle to keep in my trunk to fill with premix. Regular oil bottles leak to much.
I keep about 6 - 4oz bottles in a coffee can.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by alnielsen
I keep about 6 - 4oz bottles in a coffee can.
Hey that is smart, like 4oz little 2 stroke bottles?
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 05:32 PM
  #137  
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Yep, I fill them with the good stuff and then use them when the time comes.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #138  
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Never thought of using the gazillion plastic seal-able Folgers cans I go through a year
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 10:59 PM
  #139  
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I use this:

http://lcdinc.zoovy.com/product/MB16...tle-16-oz.html

Bought that when I got my FP+.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 11:10 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by JinDesu
I use this:

http://lcdinc.zoovy.com/product/MB16...tle-16-oz.html

Bought that when I got my FP+.
That's what I need right there!! But shipping 3 times as much as the bottle, haha.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 12:14 PM
  #141  
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So where are the pics of this overly-clean, overly worn-down-from-mmo engine, that were promised? Sorry to say I am starting to feel....

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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
That's what I need right there!! But shipping 3 times as much as the bottle, haha.
You could probably go to a kitchen store and get a squirt bottle lol. I got that along with the FP+, so pretty much shipping went to cover the gallon of FP+. It's pretty good.

I used to use an old gatorade bottle, but the cap kept on getting lubricated by the Idemitsu and leaking. Squirt tops are way better at getting the right amount of pre-mix you want.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 01:22 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by jmc23200
Idemitsu Premix bottles actually seal back up pretty damn good. I don't know what it is called but the plastic pass through (from inside your car to trunk) is a good place for a quart or any bottles. I keep my quart of idemitsu premix in there.

Yeah I currently keep a quart of Lucas 2 stroke there with a squirt bottle top from the factory mazda diff fluid bottle but I find squirting it in is a PIA even though OZS are marked on the side of the bottle.. I used to used to use the Lucas "one shot" bottle and it is perfect to fit not the gas tank but only holds 5.25 OZ. and they tend to leak as well.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 06:33 AM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by Spoolin8
The "direct" cause of the failure was an injector not injecting enough fuel do to a small leak and one of my new ignition coils completely shitted out after 12k miles and that combo caused a super lean misfire and POP. His theory is that with my conditions it looked like i was doomed for failure, but the housing and seals seemed really worn, especially for only having that little amount of miles on the engine and it was both housings that looked like that, and not just the front one that failed.
How did they determine that this was the cause? Is there a CEL for injectors not operating correctly?
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 09:57 AM
  #145  
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i am beginning to think that pre mixing for DD may not be worth the trouble.
Track events---Hell yea.
OD
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 12:06 PM
  #146  
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um..not sure why you say that. Unless you tell them you're pre-mixing, they have no way or knowing nor will test for such. Not only that but by the time you run out of warranty it will be too late for the pre-mix to do much as the carbon build up from the gas will already be plastered on the rotor. Pre-mixing just lubricates it to help fight the carbon build up

Secondly, while failure is inevitable it's a matter of when the engine fails and prolonging the failure point which is why a lot of people pre-mix. Generally speaking, failure is inevitable for any engine, period. It's what you do that prolongs their life that matters.

Last edited by Vlaze; Apr 12, 2010 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 12:07 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by jmc23200
but for the S1, failure is inevitable. I say don't premix until you are out of warranty or going to the track.
Originally Posted by olddragger
i am beginning to think that pre mixing for DD may not be worth the trouble.
Track events---Hell yea.
Exactly the opposite.

DD style driving introduces the least amount of injected oil and more constant RPMs, which produces the most wear.

At track events, you are at high load more often which significantly raises the oil injection volumes and the constantly changing RPM distributes the engine wear more evenly because of the different levels of load and changing inertial loads on the components.

The S2 introduced no changes that make it any more durable beyond marginally increasing the effective oiling under low-load and high-heat saturation (stop-n-go), which just keeps you out of Mazda's pocket a little longer.
Remember, all the injected oil does is remove heat from the components that are directly sprayed.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 12:20 PM
  #148  
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Correct me if I'm wrong but, I haven't seen anyone on here IIRC more than once if that, whom pre-mixed and had their engine fail pre-maturely, meaning before the 100k mark.

Everyone I read that had their engine fail might have ran a different oil that was being injected, but no pre-mix. I thought that was quite consistent.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 12:35 PM
  #149  
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I'm not saying it's the answer, just stating what I recall from heavily reading on relevant threads. I don't recall anyone stating their failure and when discussing prevention they tried as pre-mixing being one of them. When most people don't have a failure they don't post on the site stating hey guess what, I didn't have a failure because such and such.

Plus what MM said mirrors those who did run 5w-20 only with no extra measures; they likely ran their car very spirited. I recall a break down someone showed us of a typical driven 8 with carbon build up as well as one with a very spirited driver who ran it hard with no build up and one pre-mixed. The last 2 were closely similar while the typical driver had excessive build up. I think pre-mix is a healthy addition to a typical driver if you don't have the means to do spirited drives depending on your traffic/location.

That being said, I don't believe the engine oil has anything to do with any of the failures, rather it's just the design and the carbon deposits that do them in. Changing to a different grade oil won't stop that, pre-mixing might help prolong it and the SOHN will just help keep improper engine oil from being combusted. That's about my view on it.

Last edited by Vlaze; Apr 12, 2010 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 12:54 PM
  #150  
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Saying that any of the engine failure data is consistent is like saying that death is consistent.
It comes for us all, but there is absolutely NO common ground for any of the billions that have dies other than they are dead.
That is what mysticism is about and probably why this discussion persists in the first place.

Also, using this forum as a metric for "why haven't we seen more 100k+ mile engine stories" is pretty useless since this is a place where people go to vent their sense of failure, not where the average owner goes to trumpet his success at being perfectly average and uneventful.
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