I started another thread in an attempt to summarize the bizillion posts on the subject of increasing engine life, while showing some concern for the warranty issue.

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...03#post3411503

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll find somewhere I trust to do the compression test, meanwhile, I'll go read through that thread...

 

Great news! It is definitely an advantage by the oil higher pressure. (I think.)

 

These are my unscientific numbers:

RE-medy Kit from Mazmart:
10w40 Dyno before and after with the pressures checked just before and after the install of the kit. Autometer Electronic oil pressure gauge. Engine temps around 185º +/- 5º

Before Install:
750 RPM =25 lbs (Idle)
3000 RPM = 50 lbs
4000 RPM = ?
5000 RPM = 74 lbs with 75 being max.

After Install:
750 RPM = 25 lbs (Idle)
3000 RPM = 78 lbs
4000 RPM =100
5000 RPM = 110 lbs +/- ? (pegged the gauge)

 

Interesting and pretty consistent with what I got. I tested my electric/analogue gauges before I installed them. Using a good ol' meat thermometer and a pan of heated water, I initially found the temperature gages to be 'off'. I noticed however that the readings depended on where I ran the ground wire, so I ran separate ground wires from each of the senders directly back to the gauge heads, which then made them pretty accurate. For the oil pressure gauge, I cobbled together some fittings and fed the pressure sender with compressed air and compared the readings with a couple of different independent gauges. Those readings were way off above about 50 psi, so I bought a new electric/digital unit for the oil pressure gauge which seems to be fine. With the stock op system, it was peaking at around 80 psi vs your 75, which could be a gauge variation or a variation in our engines. Given this difference and that you were running 185 deg vs 205 deg, I think our readings are showing the same thing: The stock system is 'peaking' in pressure (and therefore flow) in the 4-5k rpm range, for colder, heavier oil, this peak is lower, and that the Mazmart mod removes this limitation.

 

I am glad my gauge goes to 150psi. I am curious if my gauges are accurate.

 

Considering the somewhat ease of installing this mod, why do you think Mazda would not have something like this to put on the series 1 cars to help with oil concerns? Emissions concerns?

 

Because as far as Mazda's concerned; there is no problem. They are not having engine failures due to this during a warranty period.

Paul.

 

I mentioned this problem to a local shop that works a lot of with Rx-7s. They showed me a few cars with these mods, and they told me they have zero problems with bearing wear;

http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?categoryID=14

loop line mod and the coated bearings

 

Some interesting stuff on that site.

Paul.

 

what kind of coatings is that?
OD

 

Coating Info

I once watched an older dodge hemi run a low 9 quarter mile with the gold coatings on its headers. When the driver got back to the pit, I asked him about the coatings. He told me to see how long I could hold my hand on the bare exhaust piping. Of course I was very hesitant, but they felt equal to ambient temp less than two minutes after a run... Needless to say they are pretty effective.

 

Damn that engine loop line mod is expensive but looks nice.

 

Funny - I already have that loop line mod but it was done for an entirely different reason ......

 

For what?

 

/\ to stop the f'n oil leak from a cracked housing at the dowell .

 

Ah, I see. Did it work?

 

/\ absolutely

 

We've used an oil loop line like that (Front and rear stationaries getting fed without passing through the dowels) but for yet another different reason. Some here may know why .

Paul.

 

I like my "drive way ramp" more every oil change...
My driveway is about 25 degrees incline up to the garage, I put my car ramps where the driveway "ramp" meets the flat of the garage; I get lots of oil out.

 

can i change oil at your house?
OD

 

This is what I want. It's a syphon that hooks up to your air pump. Just stick a plastic tube down your dip sticks tube until it hits the bottom of your oil pan an pump for about 15 min. It will drain that puppy dry without jacking up your car, taking off a drain plug or tilting your car on it's side to get as much out as possible. Saw it at a friends house last weekend.

 

I have a mityvac, and loved it for my past cars. Mine was a hand pump one, unlike the picture which uses compressed air. The dipstick tube on my 2004 is too small for the tubes that came with my mity to go down. (I think they have bigger dipstick tubes on later cars though.)

I also have the attachment to suck brake fluid out, which also worked great on past cars. With this car I have to step on the brake, making it a two person operations. Don't know why that is.

 

Put on stainless Speedbleeders (Dot Com), it is then a one person Job..

 

i also have a hand vac to suck the oil out.
It does get more oil out and a hell of a lot less messy.
OD