Yes, my oil pressure sensor is place via a adaptor at the filter there, together with Oil temp. I don't get what you mean by
"by putting air pressure directely into the first sender I had, that the calibration was way off, especially on the high pressure end of things."

 

Unscrew the op sender from the mounting block, then screw it into a 1/8 PT female Tee. Screw in a hose from your air compressor, and a trusted airpressure gauge into the other two ports. Turn on your ignition (but dont start the engine!). Raise the airpressure in the line in 10 psi steps. Tap the sender a bit in case the internal diaphram is sticky (the running engine would take care of this for you in normal operation). You'll have two airpressure gauges, one on the compressor outlet and one you installed in the tee. Assuming they agree, write down what the ap gauge is reading and what the op gauge is reading at the same time. My first sender agree pretty well up to about 30 psi, but by the time it was over 80 psi, the op guage was reading almost 20 lbs high. If it's in error, you can record the difference and apply it to your op readings later. I got another, supposedly identical sender, so that now the op gauge in my car reads withing +- 3 lbs or so of what the air pressure gauges are reading.

I also discovered that the gauge readings in the car were quite sensitive to how and where I grounded them. The best results were when I uses a hose clamp to clamp ~1" of bare wire to the body of the sender and ran that wire back to the ground wire of the guage itself. In other words, it worked best when it was not relying on the car body as ground.

After running sperate ground wire for the them, I also checked my temerature gauges by putting them in hot water and comparing the car reading to a good 'ol bulb thermometer. Even the fanciest new car gauges still depend on 1950's senders and I don't trust them to be accurate. There's no attempt at any sort of quality control as far as I can see; marketing is driven by how many and what color of flashing lights they can put in.

 

I am pretty sure it's not guage issue, but probably the regulator pressure was overly increased. I have took out 2 washer from the front relief valve, and it drops to 123psi. This make me belief the stock relief valve was already rated at 120psi. There is probably no need for any washer unless you want to get your pressure over 120psi.

As read somewhere in the thread, I am not the only whom can reach 100psi at low rpm of 4000, which I had lower of 3500. By hitting 100psi at 4rpm will means you should exceed 100psi by 6000rpm unless the relief valve is rated at 100psi which I believe it is 120psi.

I am not sure if mazmart had tested what is the peak beyong 100psi. From the pictures posted earlier, the guage seems capable of reading max of 100psi not beyong.

 

I thought this might be of interest to those who run the higher oil pressure:

http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm

OK, the link might not get you there, but Racing Beat is selling custom oil lines for the coolers - fewer connections might mean fewer leaks. Somebody would need to check if they can handle the higher pressure, but I suspect they can.

 

I have custom lines and cooler and my pressure increased just with that (90-93 psi max). I will have some OP numbers this weekend on the Mazmart Kit so hopefully it's not too much

 

If u are running over 90psi, i think should be good enough? raising another 7psi, aint a lot though....... and may ended over boosting your pressure.....

E washer I believe is not required at all........ mine is 07 model, don't think any diff with 04 model in OP.

I'll be switching back to stock regulator..... better be lower than to burst any connection.... which One WRX did on track...... and the one behind him, has to scrapt his ride due to it.

 

Although this kit is not sold with guarantees to do anything other than increase your oil pressure to 100 plus psi, the potential pressure is nothing to be alarmed about. The stock lines in healthy condtion can stand all the motor will make with this kit. Anyone installing this is doing so at their own risk but it has been well thought out and tested like everything else we sell.

By the way, we ran 150 psi on our race car last weekend.

Paul.

 

Yeah I have been reading up on OP on various 13B's and this should not be an issue, just hope my custom stuff holds up

 

I ran at Road Atlanta this last weekend in Time Trials. My car really ran great. Can't say wether the oil pressure was a of any benefit. I still have the RB gauge so I have no clue what the peak was on the back stretch.

I think I filled my oil level too high as it frothed one time on Saturday. I was using a small breather on the neck of my oil filler so it just blew into my engine bay. I don't attribute this to the added oil pressure but I do find it interesting that it has never happened before that I know of. I had a back-up breather so I just replaced and went on about my business. I did drop the oil level to about 1/8 below full to try to keep it from doing it again. I had no more issues and that was with running even harder than when she puked.

By they way, pardon me while I toot my horn... I took first in TTD on Saturday and Sunday! Toot-Toot!

Paul, you want me to blame it on the OP?

 

Whoot whoot!

Paul, any disadvantages of those pressures on the street?

 

i was there also and i did not have any blow back.
no problems.
no leaks
no worrys
I think Don was driving so dang fast he must have flipped upside down once and didnt notice
OD

 

Thanks for all the info........ I am not sure if am comfortable running 123psi because it seems like I am the only person on this boost level...... :-( whatever the case is, I felt the 3 shims are not required...... since I am running on just 1 shim now.

The front relief valve should be good enough of over 100psi....... :-)

 

I finally got a weather window and clear streets to take the 8 out on a 600 mile roundtrip (that I have to do way too often). I agree with OD about 'silk-a-licious'! It's hardly scientific, but the impression of absolute smoothness was strong. I was also surprised at how big a difference temperatures make. With slightly lighter than 15W-40 oil I was showing 94 psi at a water temp of 205 F taken in my garage. Moving in ~ 55F air, the water temp was 175 deg F, and op @ 6k was 110 lbs. Oil temps were running about 5 F higher than water temps. In this run, mpg's were down from 24.5 to 22.5, compared to stock. I think I'll collect data for a while with this setup, then switch back to the stock 180F thermostat and see if it makes a difference. The peak op I saw was in the neighborhood of 120 psi.

 

Thanks, I meant I am the only one running this OP here in my region...... It seems like your Peak OP is similar to mine but my OP peaked much earlier from 4200rpm @ 123psi. I understand that my guage is slightly more sensitive which could mean only 120psi....

Not sure if the earlier peak OP is due to 2Xoil cooler??

 

? .... I have the twin oil coolers like all the other MT cars. Certainly my op's peak earlier if the car is anything less than fully warmed up. A 3,800 rpm long cruise at 73 mph was showing ~80 psi with ~50 deg outside air temperature. Interpolating from what I've seen, going back to a stock 180 deg thermostat should drop the pressure by about 5 psi @ 6k rpm, and a 30W oil, another 5 psi. Too bad there doesn't seem to be a 190 deg thermostat around - it would make an interesting comparison to the 170 deg one. I'm suspecting at the moment that there's some negative effect on gas mileage from running the engine colder.

 

Done. Pics and data to follow. Right now I have to go eat

 

looking FWD: to it.

 

Okay, did not get a chance to red line but this is my pressure in the 6-7,000RPM range



Oh, and you guys with the RB adapter may have to mofidy to fit the 09' filters but not us guys with the Prosport adapter

 

 

Did anyone else have a **** load of silicone already in the engine? I noticed when I pulled the old unit it had dabs of silicone dried to it. Maybe why I was getting high silicone in my oil analysis?

Oh, and I did a few hard pulls this morning and my max seem to be at about 140PSI.

 

A lot of RX8s had their original oil pans replaced under warranty. Sometimes the job may have been a little sloppy. I can tell you from your VIN if that's the case with yours.

Paul.

 

Well this would be my 3rd oil pan I guess the reman plant is getting sloppy

 

That's interesting. Inside of your motor shows so much silicone that I was wondering whether someone had rebuilt it (Sloppy on Mazda's part).

Paul.

 

Yeah when I first dropped the pan I was really set back at the amount between the housings and on the pan itself.

 

This is high...... don't think it will go any higher as the relief valve will open...... If u remove the 3 shims, it should peak at ard 118psi region.....