Vasichko

iTrader: (1)

Im wanting to adjust the clutch engagement/disengagement point.

When I start my car in neutral and let it out I can feel some movement.

Also when the revs are high and I push the clutch in and shift, it is still feeling like it is grabbing.

My motor mounts should be okay since Mazda replaced both of them about 2k miles ago, or at least the work order says they did. Maybe this will fix some of the shudder I feel when going from 0 throttle to light throttle?

ja9^

if u meen the "rocking" forwards and backwards when on/off the throttle Im experiencing the same thing.. have had my mounts changed too..

ja9^

..and i have the same feel with the clutch, at least sometimes.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

If you're on a flat ground. your car should NOT move at all.

There is a good chance that your clutch pedal bracket is failing. You might want to look into that.

Vasichko

iTrader: (1)

What is a good way to look at this?

staticlag

Shifting engaugement point.

Sounds like air in the clutch line. When's the last time it's been bled?

Vasichko

iTrader: (1)

Last time it was bled was about a month ago, when I bled it there was no air in the lines at all.

The clutch bracket looks solid.

These issues didnt start until the dealer replaced my throw out bearing and I had them put a new clutch/flywheel combo in (ACT). Ever since that I notice my 2 to 3rd is very notchy unless I wiggle it in neutral before going to 3rd.

Ive told them and took it there and they keep saying its the clutch, blah blah blah, its normal blah blah blah.

Vasichko

iTrader: (1)

Oh and tranny and diff fluid was done about 2 weeks ago, I had Rotary Performance do it for me since I was feeling a bit lazy.

staticlag

You change the adjustment point by changing the piston setting.

Look at the clutch pedal and you will see a double nut assembly. untighten the lock nut (9-10mm?) and turn the other nut (8mm I think) clockwise to tighten the pedal and raise engaugement point (towards you). The other way to lower the point towards the floor. There should be no constant load on the pedal, so make sure that whatever you tighten it to should have 1/16-1/8 inch of free movement when there is no pressure on the pedal

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

You can take out all of the slack on the adjuster - just keep turning the rod until you see it begin to push the face of the piston in and then back it out a half-turn.
Its worthwhile to get under the car and check the slave cylinder.
Those can start to fail gradually. Look for brake fluid seeping out from the rubber cap.

Vasichko

iTrader: (1)

Just checked it, looks fine.

Maybe what Im experiencing is movement in the drivetrain?

Kinda hard to describe, when at high rpms I push the clutch in and shift and it seems like the clutch is still wanting to grip.

I guess I will try to bleed the line again. I bled it from max to low line on the reservoir maybe 3 - 4 times. There were no big air gaps, but some tiny bubbles here and there.

Vasichko

iTrader: (1)

You think I could have an issue with the slave cylinder at 29k miles?

staticlag

Could also be your technique, shifting a worn clutch is different from shifting a new clutch. Engaugement points change because of the size of the new disk vs the worn disk.

Vasichko

iTrader: (1)

I have been trying to check this, but still dont know why Im having the 2-3rd issues even when I hold my foot to the floor to 1-2 seconds before moving the shifter.

Oh well, I guess Ill see how it pans out. Pisses me off because Ive been sitting on $3k debating if I want to do stuff and have something break and the Mazda dealer screw me.

Vasichko

iTrader: (1)

So should I adjust the pedal away from the floorboard and closer to me?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Charles is correct .
I have same setup as you Vashinko and I can tell you it is more finicky than the stock clutch . I ended up getting a SS clutch line and spent some time and effort bleeding the system and adjustiing the pedal to get it right .
I think the SS line did help because with this setup you seem to need all the travel the pedal has to get full disengagement. The stock rubber line will expand under the additional pressure of the ACT setup meaning you need a fraction more pedal travel as some of the travel is used to expand the line.

heyarnold69

iTrader: (1)

had the same issue............. Ill be honest ... a tune took it away.. i dont know why ......