I am also going to do the premix
lett us know on the Royal purple TCW111 as that is what i am thinking about as well.

Guys can you please help me
we are in SA and work in ml and Liters, i know one quart is 0.945L
but how much is a oz. I cant find a convertor table on it yet.

If i premix in mL I was thinking of about 150 ml per full tank. (400:1)

1 oz = ??? ml ?

Thanks guys

Philip

 

when in doubt, ask google.

"1 oz in ml"

http://www.google.com/search?q=1+oz+...en-US:official

 

that may be a bit confusing...
the answer is...

1 US fluid ounce = 29.5735297 ml

 

Great thread. Thanks all.

 

These are "possible" advantages. But everyone is ignoring the one VERY big disadvantage - more oil in the burn mixture WILL cause more deposits/carbon on top of the high amount these engines already produce.

How many engines have failed due to lubrication issues? I have not heard of any.

How many have failed due to carbon buildup (causing exhaust port clogging and rotary seals sticking and killing compression)? Pretty much every failed engine.

So, what you have to ask yourself is, do you feel lucky, punk? (oops, slipped into old movie cleche' mode).


What you have to ask yourself is, are you going to continue to love your engine to death due to your lubrication paranoia?


Rant finished - where's my chill pill?

 

I bought a bottle of Super Tech Outboard 2-cycle engine oil at Wal-Mart today. It says it's TC-W3 but I see no note of synthetic or castor. Is this stuff ok to use for pre-mix or should I keep looking?

 

The recent recall is due to lubrication issues, so we could assume hundreds of engines have been replaced due to it. The OMP wasn't injecting enough oil in some cars / conditions, causing the seals to get damaged.

Carbon buildup can also cause issues, but put in some cleaners and redline it a bit to fix.

 

In my real responsible life, I am a pharmacist so I can recommend to you guys that are concerned about pouring oil all over your car, go to your pharmacy and see if you can get a 4 oz (120ml) prescription bottle to use as your pre-mix measuring device. The caps on them are pretty leak proof, they have markings on the side for ~accurate measurements and they can be tipped into the fuel filler neck without too much problem. They do come in 6oz and 8oz too so if you can get a 8oz bottle, it will leave room to get it into the neck then invert the whole bottle in.

 

^^ many of the failed engines was due to not enough lubrication of the seals.. go ask the services guys and they will tell you that.. yes, carbon build up is a problem, but if you use good quality gas and dont drive like a grandma, it will cure itself.. also, if you use high quality synthetic premix, a small amount in the gas will burn cleanly...

 

Can anyone share experience using Lucas UCL alone?

 

in a healthy engine, you really should not see much change.

The only thing I saw was less exhaust soot.

 

I've just recently started useing Lucas I'm happy I didn't do it for performance issues just long term health. I'll let you know if I see anything dumb, dangerous or different.

 

Remember to only use a full synthetic pre mix oil--walmart has one --a Quicksilver type outboard premix--ONLY get the full synthetic!
olddragger

 

Wont need your 8 at all after that .......

 

Idemitsu is not Full Synthetic.

Just make sure its not Veggy Oil and it should be fine.

 

Idemitsu is not a full synthetic?
olddragger

 

Ok just did a little look see- and yep it is not a full synthetic--it is a blend. I am by far not a super duper expert here but in my readings and in speaking with people about--other engines that use premix that have a catalytic converter such as performance boats and motorcycles,advise to only run a full synthetic because of the potential damage to the cat using a non synthetic premix. If you will notice on the Idemitsu-- is a RACING type of premix. Therefore I would have to question whether it is ok for an engine with a cat. Most racing type engines do not have cats. Good question as Idemitsu is a good product.
olddragger

 

I know race cars dont have a CAT.

It really depends on the formula of the premix, just like people who said Full Synthetic Engine oil would kill the engine because its not burning as *clean* as their Dino cousins. Is it true ? Well Im not sure but I know tons of people who use Full Synthetic Engine Oil has no engine problems, in fact people who had dead engine were mostly people who use nothing but Dino oil only. but lets not get into that for now. This is not a Synthetic vs Dino thread.

I've been using this premix for some time and of course I love it.

 

Well, use without problems is of course proof--glad to hear it. Main point to me is that pre mix is a good thing !
Merry Christmas all
Olddragger

 

Is this full synthetic? Protek R

 

Ju Just wanted to add the Photo and that I have been using Idemitsu for 13,000 miles with no issues. But with 82,000 miles were something to happen to my CAT I can't really blame the Pre-Mix.

 

I think you have to be careful with pre-mixing. I used a fully synthetic oil for pre-mixing, Castrol, but noticed some odd results. If I mix 2 to 3 ounces everything seems fine. I do seem to do a little better with gas mileage. Anyway, a couple of times I screwed up and poured too much in my gas tank. About 6 ounces plus. I noticed that I got reduced gas mileage, which may be caused by the reduced octane rating as a result of too much pre-mix oil. The 2nd time around, it made me paranoid so I used a Gas treatment Fuel Line/Injector/carbon cleaner and everything seemed back to normal.

I notice that some people are pre-mixing at high amounts, 5oz plus. I wonder if its worth it if your MOP is on. Can too much pre-mixing or the wrong kind of oil cause carbon deposits or other deposits? Then there is the issue of reduced octane rating.


Also, if you are using a thinner oil like 5w20, how much of an advantage would pre-mixing be? I can see a little bit 2 to 3 ounces, but its hard for me to see going higher than that ( 5 and 6 oz).

 

I have been using 1/2 oz per gallon for thousands of miles without issue.
olddragger

 

amsoil saber pro @ 1/2 oz. per gal. fuel, spark plugs look perfect, no soot in exhaust, sometimes can smell it on a cold startup

 

I use Motul 710 full sinthetic, 150:1 proportion, confident cold start, smoth idle. Unpleasant side only - smell in cabin after hard driving, think its from cat.