Guys I think that there's too much debate about which premix to use.
I use any 2 stroke oil that i can find, if i stick to motul or similar brands is just because i know that they did fine in every 2stroker engine i had
My only concern is about castrol's TTS line, lots of ashes. Reading the specs helps a lot so i generally stick to oils with low ash deposits and call it a day.
Valvoline has also got, like MANY other brands a line of premix oils for catalyzed bikes, a good bonus if you're still running with your catalyzer.
Other than that i once gave Todd ( Flashwing )a list of the oils I tried but i dunno if he still has it somewhere.
Avoiding aviation\motorboat oils is the only little extra precaution i'd take, those engines are meant to run at fixed rpms for most or their lives. We see varying speeds and loads, exact same as an engine bike
Considering that you don't have to lube the bearings or the engine internals but just the housings\seals with it there's really no point in wasting money!
Bottom line: just get the right 2 stroke oil (for catalytic bikes\non cat) and you'll be fine

 

here is an article i think yall may find interesting
all these seals where pre mixed at 100/1 ratio and where used on road race cars
site is:
WWWRiceracing.com au/apex-seals

Go figue
Ceramics do hold up well.
OD

 

Uhm... I only see a comparison between SEALS (how would the esmeril ones hold up? ) and not between the same seal run with or without premix

It would be cool to see the difference between 2 OEM seals, one ran with premix and one without. A third one with "real life" percentages would be the extra icing!

 

My point I was trying to make is that even with premix the seals are still wearing out faster than what we think they should?
all these seals were using 100/1 premix--they all wore(except the ceramic).
So why premix ?
OD

 

Fixed OD,

http://www.riceracing.com.au/apex-seals.htm

 

Because those engine were putting down more than twice your power in race or race like conditions
Even a piston ring shows wear signs after 2 or 4 race weekends! As I said a cool test would be a 50.000km durability one in a premix vs non premix vs heavy premix contest!

Moreover, what if they premixed to a 100:1 ratio because they were running without OMPs? The pics are pretty clear but as stated why were they even premixing AT ALL if it is so useless? =)

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/1s...ion_remov.html

remove stock oil metering system **to allow user to run 2-cycle premix in the gas at all times**. The benefit to this is a cleaner engine externally, less oil consumption by the engine, and cleaner 2-cycle premix burning internally (necessary to lubricate the apex seals, which is what the OMP system did with crankcase oil) leaves fewer deposits on the internals and probably does a better job of even lubrication internally. Note that you will have to religiously pour in premix with your gas, without fail, after removing the system. OMP, rod, oil lines, vacuum lines and oil injectors get removed and blocked off.

 

bse50--you are right--not a fair comparasion but it was interesting.
OD

 

I have an 02 banshee an i use golden spetro at 50 to 1 the guy i bought it from used bel ray at 40 to 1 ive never had a problem at all.

 

Not the main reason to premix, but it's certainly a nice little bonus:



I haven't cleaned my exhaust tips in two months now. On my last RX-8 (that had the same exhaust but I didn't premix) those things would be black around the tip in a matter of days.

I love it!

 

very interesting!

 

This thread has been beat to ****.

 

113 pages of pure gold with out it I would be running dry

 

I use Idumitsu about 4 to 8oz a tank, I just found this on the rx7club
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...e+motor+whales

 

Mine looked like that after unknown miles and I only started premixing at 122k

sooooo. No one knows ****.

 

wow so premix even reverses carbon build up!!!

 

Yep and I hear the fumes from premix actually stabilize economies which is why japan hasn't gone down in flames yet.

Someone lock this thread please.

 

LOL, I also heard the fumes replace Ozone, can be used for seasoning, and make your exhaust sound better, not to mention the 20HP gain.

left=premix no OMP, right=OMP no premix

 

That looks promising. Can you give us more details? You started premixing @ 122k, so what miles did that get pulled out. What is the complete history of your car, etc...

 

I bought the car with 96k. Mazda wont release the car since I wasn't the owner of it then. I did a carfax on it and it was a dealer car whatever that means.

Anyway I first started premixing with MMO at 112k? I think I'm not really sure.

Then I got a compression check around 122k and failed that so I decided to start premixing Idemitsu and used that as a crutch until I had the funds for the rebuild kit.

I pulled the engine at 124k and began rebuilding it.

Here is my rebuild thread there's tons of information from some of the leading experts on this site.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/my-engine-rebuild-195276/page22/

 

If only there is a pic for OMP + Premix in which I am convinced that many is running.

 

I hear forget the OMP on pre 2008 engines, use a Sohn adapter and proper 2 stroke burning oil, then can use synth oil in peace. The logic is flawless, anybody disagree?

 

still should premix because there are only 2 oil squirter's in the renny, while the new 09+ models have a third center oil squirter

 

Peace of what?

There is no problem with using Synthetic oils.

 

there are 4 squirters on the series I. 6 on the series II one rides down the middle.