Gas/Oil Premix Thread
After reading the aviation part of this I started mixing my premix just based on the fact that if a person trust this mix to keep him running at 20,000 feet I could give it a try. I just followed his premix and have been for about a month now no problems
Hey guys, here is another "discovery."
I found out that the flash point for Lucas UCL is typically 450*F, it is my speculation that this is a good discovery. This may mean that the higher flash point suggest that it does what it is suppose to do: lube the central apex/wall areas before full combustion.
Reference: http://www.lucasoil.com/images/media...68131E1823.pdf
I found out that the flash point for Lucas UCL is typically 450*F, it is my speculation that this is a good discovery. This may mean that the higher flash point suggest that it does what it is suppose to do: lube the central apex/wall areas before full combustion.
Reference: http://www.lucasoil.com/images/media...68131E1823.pdf
i did that with the same logic.. it failed.. hard.. and you know i have the extra pumps to prove it. but i used some interesting premix in the early days..
i started premixing my mix 2 years ago.. and last track day i did not have an issue..
hint. buy a 1ltr aquafina water bottle. drink the water. then use it to premix..
this is for those using 2stroke oil. if you are using mmo. just dump it in at half fill..
beers
I fill up on the way home (rarely letting it get much below half a tank) and then add my pre-mix on top in the garage. Via heavier-than-gas convection currents it mixes adequately overnight. Let's not be too **** out there....
I just bought a bottle of this:
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=19&pcid=16
No, it's not castor-based, as has been reported earlier in this thread.
It's expensive, but a bit cheaper if you buy it by the gallon.
They make a good bit of noise of it burning extremely clean, but having a high affinity for hot metal, etc.
Up unitl now I've been shelling out for RP oil in the crankcase. I think I'm going to just use regular dino oil in the crank case (perhaps Valvoline Blue 15w-40) and use the money I save to put the best stuff I can possibly buy into the gas tank. Seems to me that what happens in the combustion chamber is makes or breaks the life of this engine.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=19&pcid=16
No, it's not castor-based, as has been reported earlier in this thread.
It's expensive, but a bit cheaper if you buy it by the gallon.
They make a good bit of noise of it burning extremely clean, but having a high affinity for hot metal, etc.
Up unitl now I've been shelling out for RP oil in the crankcase. I think I'm going to just use regular dino oil in the crank case (perhaps Valvoline Blue 15w-40) and use the money I save to put the best stuff I can possibly buy into the gas tank. Seems to me that what happens in the combustion chamber is makes or breaks the life of this engine.
What is the 50:1 vs 100:1 measure? I have had some of each since I started premixing the RX-8. The redline product says: "Suggested use at 50:1, but useful up to 100:1 depending on operating conditions"
It's the ratio of fuel to oil. Those numbers would equate to 1.2 to 2.5 oz per gallon, but are reccomendations for 2-cycle motors that have no other source of lubrucation for the rings. For the RX-8, with it's OMP delivering oil to the combustion chambers in addition to the premix, you don't need to use such high levels, unless of course you have disabled the OMP.




