I know, that's why I said "maybe when he comes back in a week."

Does he know it is temporary? If he comes back, I for see a perm ban in his near future lol.

 

Lmao

The troll will be gone for a while. In the mean time. I guess he should use it to learn about the engine more before he spills out more bullshit

 

Doesn't the rotary run on bull ****?

 

Yes but you must premix your bullshit with 4oz of ****

 

I still have yet to hear any opinions on adding MMO to your engine oil. This is what MMO has to say

• Marvel should be added to your engine oil at every oil change. In a traditional automobile engine with a 5 quart oil capacity, simply replace one of the engine oil quarts with a quart of Marvel. For your convenience, MM13R is the quart size of Marvel Mystery Oil® and can be found at most automotive parts and supply retailers and mass merchants. Marvel is also safe and effective to use with synthetic and synthetic-blend motor oils.
• When added to engine oil, Marvel reduces and prevents valve sticking and clatter by breaking down harmful deposits of carbon and sludge. Oftentimes, valve sticking can be identified by a "ticking" sound coming from the engine compartment when the engine is running. This ticking sound will increase and decrease with the speed of the engine.
• Marvel fortifies the properties of motor oil, both traditional and synthetic. Marvel prevents oil breakdown caused by extreme temperatures. In addition, Marvel promotes easier cold weather starting with its extremely low pour point of (-65) Fahrenheit and ability to eliminate oil's tendency to congeal at low temperatures.
• Sludge build-up in newer and older engines can result in lower performance and life expectancy. Marvel will prevent sludge build-up from occurring in new engines and removes sludge from older engines. In newer engines, Marvel protects against scoring or seizing and creates a highly polished, wear resistant finish on engine surfaces. Your new engine will remain clean and your older engine will thank you for cleaning the insides.

Now I fully understand we dont have many of the componets that have been laid out above but I sound like a good thing to do?

 

A good engine oil does not need any "extra" stuff

If it does. That simply means it suck.

Mmo is just a cleaner. It does not have everything found in a good engine oil

 

For what is worth since being on the board for ~4 weeks with my 8 and doing exhaustive "research" here is what I am doing:

2 oz of Lucas UCL for every tank of gas I fill up.

Reasons? I came to these conclusions after doing much research on many many threads.

1.) Carbon build-up is a leading cause of many engine failure. More so than anything else based on people from Mazmart that have done tear-downs. Using 2-Stroke oil may contribute to higher amounts of carbon buildup over an extended period of time.
2.) Lucas UCL is also a cleaner, which mean it should actively clean carbon buildup.
3.) I like to keep my CAT running for awhile and not have to replace it. Lucas UCL claims that they are safe for O2 sensors and CATS, even when used every tankful.
4.) Lucas UCL provides lubrication. Is it the amount that you would get from a good 2-stroke oil? I don't know, but it claims that it will lube well enough to be an "Upper Cylinder Lubricant;" therefore I trust that the lubricity characteristic is better than having bare gas.
5.) Lucas claims that their formulation is not a solvent, therefore it should not "eat" at the oil film. This is a very important point, as some have claimed that solvents may dissolve the oil film already present internally, causing increased metal-to-metal wear until the oil film is replaced.

So there you go. I don't know if Lucas UCL is the end-all, be-all, but based on the criteria of finding something that validated all of my concerns, this is it.

-Chris

 

If you feel good with it go with it. I still prefer a top quality 2cy oil, some peeps use both. At least you looked into it.

 

The whole point of an ashless 2 stroke is that it doesn't leave carbon build up. Any Jaso 2 stroke is miles ahead of dirty engine oil in terms of carbon deposits. So, if your not using the SOHN then the dirty engine oil is still being injected into your combustion chamber and leaving heavy deposits.

I agree Lucas UCL is good. I will be sending a sample to Blackstone Labs soon.

 

No, the ashless refers to how the additive package burns; it has no reference to carbon build-up. Poor Stealth, he's posted this here so many times, thought I'd do it for him this time.

But I agree that 2-stroke is better than dirty engine oil, of course.

 

Yes, you are right. Low ash Jaso FD then

 

/\ defenately. Sohn is +1 over stock.

 

2 oz. doesn't seem like very much. I think most people who use LUCL use more than that, maybe 4-5 oz. What's your rationale for 2 oz?

 

Well I got no answer on MMO mix with my crank case oil so I put half a bottle in my crank and lets see what happens

 

Piston engines do consume oil by design- a common misunderstanding is that they don't.

a post on zcar.com explains it well: Re: What went wrong with the 06 engine? Posted by: 350 TTZ
Date: July 07, 2008 08:03PM


Guys.... not to throw a wrench into your diagnostics, but there is problem oil consumption, normal oil consumption, and FAKE No oil consumption.

There is also normal oil consumption, maybe a 1/2 quart over an oil change interval. All engines consume oil to lubricate the valve guides, piston rings leave behind a minute trace, and cam cover breather carry over consumes oil. This is normal, nothing to worry about.

Now an engine that appears to burn NO oil.....is actually making oil through fuel dilution. The oil gets burned off, but because fuel is making its way past the rings, or valve guides it appears as if the oil level never changes. This is also common and normal for most engines. If you dont believe me, send a sample of your oil out to BlackStone Labs for an oil analysis. This is also the reason you need to CHANGE your oil on regular intervals.

So when your engine consumes a little oil per oil change.....thats actually the perfect engine. A little backwards isnt it?

 

Honestly, its for the convenience factor of being able to track my usage on the bottle. I gotten the 32 oz bottle and the side markers are in "2 oz" increments. For the sake of simplicity and consistency, I am going by that. But I may bump my usage up to "4 oz," just to experiment around. I should note that to further combat carbon-buildup, I only use Top-Tier gas: currently Shell V-POWER 91.

-Chris

 

^ Southern MO as in Rolla?

 

Springfield not far away from Rolla

 

I'm just going to assume you must be a friend of Onyx to even bother with this if not him, himself.

Consuming by design means the design took into the functionality of consuming the oil to run properly. Piston engines do not consume oil like a 2-stroke engine to run properly. What you are debating is that is consume oil through the life of the engine due to tolerances, seals, valves, so forth. Two complete different things.

To even debate, that piston engines are alike to the rotary in oil consumption is idiotic and laughable even when someone like Onyx or yourself (if not him) tries to believe otherwise in the face of facts. The rotary consumes 1 qt of oil between oil changes averagely. If a typical piston engine does this that is a big *bleeping* problem, not part of the design. I have never, ever, seen ANY piston engine consume such oil. The oil it consumes would have to be marked between oil changes to even see ANY difference in drop because it's so small it's trivial.

To carry on with this comparison is alike to Onyx's approach, beating a dead horse with a theology devoid of any idea of the differences between the two engines.

But I suppose you could be like if not Onyx himself and just distract the purpose of the thread even further debating this. It goes something like this; topic is about the color red since a marker is red thus the color on the paper is obviously red when said individual wrote on it. Troll enters saying it's blue, no we say it's red, show him the proof on paper that it's red, yet continues to debate further on that it's blue. Troll then goes into the fundamental chemistry explaining why it's blue for some god forsaken reason devoiding the thread of any rationale thought or contribution because in the end fact is, it's red regardless of how you think otherwise when said result is on the paper. Then to top this off, the Troll goes on to talk about purple saying it makes up blue while failing to realize it's a primary color and debates this to death. But I guess in your perspective if one debates hard enough it must be "contributing" and more of a rationale response even though they are a) wrong in the face of facts and b) taking the thread off topic. I'll have to remember that one.

Get back on topic.

 

(Don't mean to thread jack - but I spent 5 years in that area for college. God's Country for sure.)



Hey - just so everyone knows... Discuss - Flame - Bring It On

My new engine is getting Idemitsu oils:

Idemitsu Racing Rotary Engine Oil 20W-50 (Full Synthetic)
Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube (Premix) - Synthetic Blend

Going to run 1/2 oz per gallon of gas for premix, and also run the premix in a separate Sohn adapter reservoir for the OMP dribblers.

 

Great Idea.

 

Piston engines do burn oil, usually caused by Bad valve seals, Worn valve guides, Pressurized crankcase (oil pan) due to a clogged PCV valve or breather system or Blow-by from worn piston rings. It is not "normal" for piston engines to burn oil.

When piston engines get tired, it is normal for a lttle oil to escape and burn off. This should only happen on high mileage or run down engines. Oil is kept from being burnt by the rings around the cylinders, and the smooth walls of the cylinders' chambers. The rotary engine burns oil by design, unlike piston engines that burn oil as they wear out.

I think Onyx has a new user name. Just so you know, you were only banned for a week. It's ok to log back in as Onyx

 

Probably no answer because this thread is (mostly) about pre-mix, not about oil additives. MMO as premix has been widely discussed here.

 

hi back, Super Moderator. Let me just get one quick question in before you ban me again....(in which case I will have to check to see if my Constitutional rights are being trampled on again!).

Lets say a robber breaks into your house, rapes your wife, or girlfriend, kills her, ***** your dog, steals everything then leaves. The cops arrive and after questioning, arrest you for "provoking" him.
Now, substitute me for you, this thread for the burglar, and you for the cops. (And substitute Trolling for provocation).
Does that about sum it up?

 

Last warning, Mouthy.

We don't tolerate self-proclaimed trolls here.

I know you don't need lessons in what a troll is/does, but insulting people left and right will get you banned,

you are completely ignorant

"oh a Trolling I will go, ........"

You're stupidity is getting tiresome

You have something to say & a point to make - be respectful, and if you disagree on facts, prove them wrong.

Insults and pejorative comments hurt your reputation, disinclining folks to take you seriously.

.....and leave me out of it.

S