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Complete engine teardown to bare shortblock how-to with pictures

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Complete engine teardown to bare shortblock how-to with pictures

Old 06-20-2011, 05:00 PM
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Thanks for this...I wish someone around me was doing this, I'd love to help and learn as much as possible, you went to great depths and although I recognize some of the pieces you're talking about, when staring at an engine and you say "remove the _______" for me it could be about 4 or 5 things you're referring to. My old man was too busy to do any of this stuff with me so now I get to teach myself yay
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Reaver View Post
Thanks for this...I wish someone around me was doing this, I'd love to help and learn as much as possible, you went to great depths and although I recognize some of the pieces you're talking about, when staring at an engine and you say "remove the _______" for me it could be about 4 or 5 things you're referring to. My old man was too busy to do any of this stuff with me so now I get to teach myself yay
If you ever find someone doing this in our area you better let me know.
As soon as my engine craps out I'll be ripping it apart just to learn about it. Unfortunately I don't have money to buy an engine to just play with.
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver6 View Post
If you ever find someone doing this in our area you better let me know.
As soon as my engine craps out I'll be ripping it apart just to learn about it. Unfortunately I don't have money to buy an engine to just play with.
haha, same for you, if you know anyone doing ANYTHING to their rx8 you should let me know, hell I'll just stand around and watch if they know it all, I'm eager to learn =)
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Reaver View Post
haha, same for you, if you know anyone doing ANYTHING to their rx8 you should let me know, hell I'll just stand around and watch if they know it all, I'm eager to learn =)
Ill keep that in mind. You should have said something a couple of weeks ago. I was doing all sorts of work on it then. If you need any help reverting your car back to stock let me know.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:17 AM
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Well, I've only had my rx8 for about a week now, but i've been reading/lurking these forums for quite a while. Trying to take in as much knowledge as I can from just reading the DYI's for now, thanks for the offer I'll let you know, have you done all of the basic mods suggested in these forums, for reliability and so on?
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Reaver View Post
Well, I've only had my rx8 for about a week now, but i've been reading/lurking these forums for quite a while. Trying to take in as much knowledge as I can from just reading the DYI's for now, thanks for the offer I'll let you know, have you done all of the basic mods suggested in these forums, for reliability and so on?
No not really. I did some. Replaced coils, plugs, wires. Cleaned maf. Replaced air filter. Cleaned SSV. I think my next project might be to install the sohn adapter. I also want to get the cobbaccessport and get rid of the cat and air pump. I have to save a little up first though. Some of those reliability mods though I think are more wishing than actually proven. The guy that owned my car before me didn't do any reliability mods. And I have 70,000 miles just checked the compression and I am 120 across everything. So I think it has mostly got to do with luck more than anything else
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver6 View Post
No not really. I did some. Replaced coils, plugs, wires. Cleaned maf. Replaced air filter. Cleaned SSV. I think my next project might be to install the sohn adapter. I also want to get the cobbaccessport and get rid of the cat and air pump. I have to save a little up first though. Some of those reliability mods though I think are more wishing than actually proven. The guy that owned my car before me didn't do any reliability mods. And I have 70,000 miles just checked the compression and I am 120 across everything. So I think it has mostly got to do with luck more than anything else
I was mostly concerned with oil pressure, I believe I read somewhere on the SII rx8's they've bumped oil pressure back up quite a bit, similar to the rx7. Also, I'd really like to check out the lines for the OMP and stuff but I've heard it's a bit of a pita. If I had nightmares, I'd have nightmares of oil deprivation for my rx8 :p
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Old 06-26-2011, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Reaver View Post
I was mostly concerned with oil pressure, I believe I read somewhere on the SII rx8's they've bumped oil pressure back up quite a bit, similar to the rx7. Also, I'd really like to check out the lines for the OMP and stuff but I've heard it's a bit of a pita. If I had nightmares, I'd have nightmares of oil deprivation for my rx8 :p
There is an oil pressure mod by mazmart for about $100 I believe. Also the oil deprivation nightmares are easily solved by premixing some two stroke in there lol.
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:35 PM
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If you follow this procedure in reverse to reassemble your new motor, then you'll be flipping all over the manual looking for torque specs. Drove me buggy.

Here's the list of specs roughly in the same order as you'll reassemble the thing.

Thermostat Housing to Block 15 ft-lbs 12mm
Thermostat cap housing 15 ft-lbs 12mm
oil metering pump housing 95 in-lbs 10mm
oil metering nozzles 15 ft-lbs 19mm
oil filter tower 15 ft-lbs 12mm
Lower fuel rail bolts 15 ft-lbs 12mm
intake manifold gasket bolts (4) 15 ft-lbs 12mm
APV bolts 90 in-lbs 7mm
SSV and VDI bolts 90 in-lbs 10mm
Upper Fuel Rail 15 ft-lbs 12mm
APV Servo (backside) 55 in-lbs 10mm
Intake Manifold (use the std tightening pattern) 15 ft lbs 12mm
Oil Cooler Pipe bracket 15 ft-lbs 12mm
Clutch Pressure Plate 15 ft-lbs 14mm
Exhaust Manifold 40 ft-lbs 14mm
Wiring Harness
Hall Effect Sensor 95 in lbs 10mm
Air Control Valve bracket 95 in-lbs 10mm
Air Control Valve flange 95 in-lbs 10mm
Knock Sensor 15 ft-lbs 12mm
ECT Sensor 15 ft-lbs 19mm
Oil Pressure Sensor 15 ft-lbs 24mm
Wiring harness tray 95 in-lbs 12mm
Water pump (for the Alt Brkt) 15 ft-lbs 12mm
Alternator Bracket 95 in-lbs 12mm
Coil Pack 95 in-lbs 12mm
Spark Plugs 8 ft-lbs 13/16th
Water Pump Pulley 95 in lbs 10mm
Aux Intake Manifold 80 in-lbs 10mm
Oil Tank 90 in-lbs 10mm
Upper intake manifold 80 in-lbs 10mm

Engine Mounts
Brackets to Engine 40 ft-lbs
Bracket to Motor Mount 35 ft-lbs
Motor Mounts to Frame 45 ft-lbs

Exhaust Flange 35 ft-lbs 14mm

Crankshaft Pulley Bolts 150 in-lbs 10mm


I put the 10mm on my 1/4" drive torque wrench and set it to 95 in-lbs and I put the 12mm on my 3/8" drive torque wrench set for 15 ft-lbs.

Use at your own risk. Insert standard disclaimer here.

My source for the torque values was the mazda manual. As you know Mazda gives you a range of torque values instead of a number - thanks for that. I picked a value that would let me leave the wrench alone throughout as many bolts as possible. Some people may think this is too loose, but I figure if Mazda gave us a lower torque value then it must be good enough. This is my first RX8, but I've done Miata's before and always used this same procedure with no ill effects. I never had the wiring harness or water pump come flying off or anything.

Plus, you can tighten some if you need to because of leaks or seepage.

Hope this helps.

Hal
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Not_Hans_Stuck View Post
If you follow this procedure in reverse to reassemble your new motor, then you'll be flipping all over the manual looking for torque specs. Drove me buggy.

Here's the list of specs roughly in the same order as you'll reassemble the thing.

Thermostat Housing to Block 15 ft-lbs 12mm
Thermostat cap housing 15 ft-lbs 12mm
oil metering pump housing 95 in-lbs 10mm
oil metering nozzles 15 ft-lbs 19mm
oil filter tower 15 ft-lbs 12mm
Lower fuel rail bolts 15 ft-lbs 12mm
intake manifold gasket bolts (4) 15 ft-lbs 12mm
APV bolts 90 in-lbs 7mm
SSV and VDI bolts 90 in-lbs 10mm
Upper Fuel Rail 15 ft-lbs 12mm
APV Servo (backside) 55 in-lbs 10mm
Intake Manifold (use the std tightening pattern) 15 ft lbs 12mm
Oil Cooler Pipe bracket 15 ft-lbs 12mm
Clutch Pressure Plate 15 ft-lbs 14mm
Exhaust Manifold 40 ft-lbs 14mm
Wiring Harness
Hall Effect Sensor 95 in lbs 10mm
Air Control Valve bracket 95 in-lbs 10mm
Air Control Valve flange 95 in-lbs 10mm
Knock Sensor 15 ft-lbs 12mm
ECT Sensor 15 ft-lbs 19mm
Oil Pressure Sensor 15 ft-lbs 24mm
Wiring harness tray 95 in-lbs 12mm
Water pump (for the Alt Brkt) 15 ft-lbs 12mm
Alternator Bracket 95 in-lbs 12mm
Coil Pack 95 in-lbs 12mm
Spark Plugs 8 ft-lbs 13/16th
Water Pump Pulley 95 in lbs 10mm
Aux Intake Manifold 80 in-lbs 10mm
Oil Tank 90 in-lbs 10mm
Upper intake manifold 80 in-lbs 10mm

Engine Mounts
Brackets to Engine 40 ft-lbs
Bracket to Motor Mount 35 ft-lbs
Motor Mounts to Frame 45 ft-lbs

Exhaust Flange 35 ft-lbs 14mm

Crankshaft Pulley Bolts 150 in-lbs 10mm


I put the 10mm on my 1/4" drive torque wrench and set it to 95 in-lbs and I put the 12mm on my 3/8" drive torque wrench set for 15 ft-lbs.

Use at your own risk. Insert standard disclaimer here.

My source for the torque values was the mazda manual. As you know Mazda gives you a range of torque values instead of a number - thanks for that. I picked a value that would let me leave the wrench alone throughout as many bolts as possible. Some people may think this is too loose, but I figure if Mazda gave us a lower torque value then it must be good enough. This is my first RX8, but I've done Miata's before and always used this same procedure with no ill effects. I never had the wiring harness or water pump come flying off or anything.

Plus, you can tighten some if you need to because of leaks or seepage.

Hope this helps.

Hal
It's commendable that you posted them here, but anyone with basic mechanical experience really doesn't need torque values for assembling components back onto an engine. The only critical values might be the flywheel/rear counterweight, and maybe, *maybe*, the oil pan (since they are prone to leakage on rotary engines and you want to pay special attention to getting it sealed). Everything else is standard mechanical "snug tight plus 1/8 turn". You're making the job harder than it has to be by doing anything more, but I suppose if you're one of those people who won't sleep at night if they don't use torque values for everything, then you have to do what you have to do.

Please tell me you did not require the aid of a torque wrench to install your intake manifold, fuel rails, motor mounts and alternator.

Last edited by RotaryResurrection; 07-20-2011 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:59 PM
  #61  
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Yea ditto to what RR said.

Also anything under 30 flt lbs is usually easy to feel out.

I've seen many people snap bolts for their front cover because they were trying to torque down a bolt to spec.
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:58 PM
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You mean tight is too tight ...or tight is too loose

Kinda just like the three bears....just right
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Old 07-22-2011, 05:18 PM
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This is one of the greatest threads ever. Thanks for sharing! I can't wait to use this info.
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Old 08-07-2011, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection View Post
It's commendable that you posted them here, but anyone with basic mechanical experience really doesn't need torque values for assembling components back onto an engine. The only critical values might be the flywheel/rear counterweight, and maybe, *maybe*, the oil pan (since they are prone to leakage on rotary engines and you want to pay special attention to getting it sealed). Everything else is standard mechanical "snug tight plus 1/8 turn". You're making the job harder than it has to be by doing anything more, but I suppose if you're one of those people who won't sleep at night if they don't use torque values for everything, then you have to do what you have to do.

Please tell me you did not require the aid of a torque wrench to install your intake manifold, fuel rails, motor mounts and alternator.

I respectfully disagree. I was trained as a Porsche mechanic. I use torque wrenches for everything I have a torque spec for and can get the wrench on. Every bolt. Every time. No exceptions.

There's no such thing as "snug". And the calibrated hand is just a myth.

I guess we just have different working methods. Also, I shut down my shop a couple of years ago and only do it for fun, so there's no profit motive.

H
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Old 08-07-2011, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31 View Post
Yea ditto to what RR said.

Also anything under 30 flt lbs is usually easy to feel out.

I've seen many people snap bolts for their front cover because they were trying to torque down a bolt to spec.
There are a couple of reasons for snapping bolts at their design torque value.

The most common is trying to re-torque a bolt that wasn't meant to be reused. Like rod big end bolts, for instance.

Second reason might be that the bolt had already yielded, thus creating a weak spot where the bolt could snap.

The other mistake, one I've made I'm ashamed to say, is to set the Ft-Lbs torque value on the N-M scale. That's way more torque than it was supposed to have. Oops.

Healthy bolts torqued to spec properly shouldn't snap.

H
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Not_Hans_Stuck View Post
There are a couple of reasons for snapping bolts at their design torque value.

The most common is trying to re-torque a bolt that wasn't meant to be reused. Like rod big end bolts, for instance.

Second reason might be that the bolt had already yielded, thus creating a weak spot where the bolt could snap.

The other mistake, one I've made I'm ashamed to say, is to set the Ft-Lbs torque value on the N-M scale. That's way more torque than it was supposed to have. Oops.

Healthy bolts torqued to spec properly shouldn't snap.

H
I snapped a brand new bolts before at proper spec, it just happen.nothing is create equal.

almost all bolts on the engine is meant to be reused. **** just happen.

a skillful mechanic will be able to tell what is too tight/loose. It's just the "feel"

as for "Porsche" training, I think all OE will train their tech with Torque spec in mind. but learning is one thing, working "in the field" is always different

if someone is stupid enough to "mistake" ft lbs to newton meters ... he/she should stay away from fixing any car, forever.

Last edited by nycgps; 08-07-2011 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:59 PM
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This is exactly why I got into aviation.
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Old 08-09-2011, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by nycgps View Post
I snapped a brand new bolts before at proper spec, it just happen.nothing is create equal.

almost all bolts on the engine is meant to be reused. **** just happen.

a skillful mechanic will be able to tell what is too tight/loose. It's just the "feel"

as for "Porsche" training, I think all OE will train their tech with Torque spec in mind. but learning is one thing, working "in the field" is always different

if someone is stupid enough to "mistake" ft lbs to newton meters ... he/she should stay away from fixing any car, forever.
Well, now, don't rush to judge. I had a crappy old Craftsman torque wrench and you could barely read the scales much less the description above. And in low light under the car, at the end of the day, when you're tired and hungry, it was too easy to confuse the two.

Also remember that experience is what you get, when you don't get what you want.

H
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:08 PM
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It is amazing how much one forgets in two months. I am back to this thread (thank you again) so I don't have to backtrack to some detail at re-assembly. It is extremely helpful.

Is anyone using pre-mix at first start up of the rebuilt engines? If so what % and what oil? Or is that not recommended?

Or at least is there a way to test and prime the oil injection system before first start up? For some reason I suspect this is not in the official manual.
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Old 09-03-2012, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by helios123 View Post
It is amazing how much one forgets in two months. I am back to this thread (thank you again) so I don't have to backtrack to some detail at re-assembly. It is extremely helpful.

Is anyone using pre-mix at first start up of the rebuilt engines? If so what % and what oil? Or is that not recommended?

Or at least is there a way to test and prime the oil injection system before first start up? For some reason I suspect this is not in the official manual.

Tell me about it ,I label alot of the plugs and area but 2 month later yep you forget I just checked out a plug i didnt label and yep it was here, best thread//

and about premix Im just going to use regular oil until the break in process.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:45 PM
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Chinorx saw your build thaat is good stuff.Good for the kids too! I just tested my oil injectors 3 of 4 have failed. Check valves are bad 4 new ones are on order so I don't burn up new housings...
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:52 PM
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:00 AM
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awesome thread thank you so much OP! Very informational!
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:21 AM
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Thanks a lot for this thread. Very good info here!
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:03 PM
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A quick note.

There is a plate on the top of the engine that has a 12mm screw just above the flywheel. If you get a reman from mazda, this plate is not installed on the new engine. Be sure to swap this plate. I did not and didn't notice until the engine and trans were mated and I dropped a screw down in the hole between the flywheel and the engine. Luckily I was able to fish it out after about 15 minutes, but it took me about 45 minutes to attach this plate since the screw is behind the oil filter and its hard to get a hand in there.

Cheers,
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