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Complete engine teardown to bare shortblock how-to with pictures

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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 04:09 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by king angels
Best advice if you are on a budget low miles van at junk yard but if u want take too machine shop complete head work about 250-325 but first just have the junk yards heads checked if bad take back with your findings in writing from shop they will replace them no charge 75 % of the time there okay.
No gym for home, work out floor with 30, but is it for 20 like 30 lb when you no lift it to be for men, for 30 lbs instead? or half is 10 for 20 pounds?

UMM HOW i word this... ok u take 20 lbs no lifting for 30lb if guy, so divide 2 u dont sit, u get 10 but for guy it no 30, so 20 would be for guy if u werent a girl ?

THEN WHO WAS PHONE
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 05:02 PM
  #27  
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I cant stop laughing!! Due to recent happeneings with the car and life, its a much needed laugh.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 07:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Nemesis8
I would so purchase a bolt kit for all the bolts used in this tear-down, if it was available. It would be awesome to have a set in a bag labeled for what they are.

I have a project I could use them on.
This is not like an LS1 where most of the bolts are torque to yeild and can only be used once. These bolts are torqued very little (with exception of flywheel and front hub) and can be reused repeatedly without issue. And, mazda RAPES on parts, even the cost of bolts and nuts. I mean, each of the little bolts is probably a dollar or 2. The big ones like tension bolts, no telling how much those things are.

Basically there are plenty of areas to focus your attention on regarding part replacement with this engine, and the bolts aren't one of them.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 07:44 PM
  #29  
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Great work RR ... Thanks for helping me get my learn on.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 02:36 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by wcs
Great work RR ... Thanks for helping me get my learn on.
I stripped a nut coming off of the exhaust manifold. and I don't know what to do!

Help me get my learrn on.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 03:42 PM
  #31  
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How did you strip it? Try using a stud extractor. If you stripped the hole get a tap and die set.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
How did you strip it? Try using a stud extractor. If you stripped the hole get a tap and die set.
I just used the 14mm socket and the edges of the nut are stripped. I CANNOT get it off. Does anybody sell those studs, and nuts? I couldn't find em on mazdatrix.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 08:13 PM
  #33  
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Dealer???? they shouldnt be that bad for price and use a wrench and or a universal w/ the socket it wont strip the nut and you can get it off better
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 12:10 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by cody205
I just used the 14mm socket and the edges of the nut are stripped. I CANNOT get it off. Does anybody sell those studs, and nuts? I couldn't find em on mazdatrix.
GO to sears, buy a stud remover kit and that will take it off. Might try lubricating it beforehand or using a propane torch to heat the stud.

I have some of the studs and nuts laying around if you need, or you can buy them new individually from mazda...check with ray at malloy mazda, hmkparts@aol.com
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 08:58 AM
  #35  
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Okay. I Used a BOSCH Bolt Extractor socket set to take the nut off. That socket+17 in Breaker bar=EASIEST thing I've done in my life.
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 11:52 AM
  #36  
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Atta boy.
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
GO to sears, buy a stud remover kit and that will take it off. Might try lubricating it beforehand or using a propane torch to heat the stud.

I have some of the studs and nuts laying around if you need, or you can buy them new individually from mazda...check with ray at malloy mazda, hmkparts@aol.com
Mazda says that there is two different kinds of studs/nuts. One kind for the two in the rear and one kind for the other four. I just have to make time to go down there, and check em out.

They want $3 EACH per stud for the two. and $16 EACH for the other 4. I think I'll go with you, rr.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 08:10 AM
  #38  
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Thanks for the pics.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 04:05 AM
  #39  
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Great Thread Kevin, Thanks...

Got one of those cherry picker hoists years ago, great value and VERY handy, ever tried a 2 ton lift ?...

Notice the Oil Injector line Banjo Fittings are Brass, are ALL Series 1 Renesis brass??, I know there is only one Part Number listing...so I guess they are.

Series 2 EMOP line banjo's are alloy with No check or one way valve inside...I guess the Series 1's have to be brass because of the check valve inside banjo?

The six S2 lines are way shorter, each are different melded shape but only about 6 inches long each.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 07:59 PM
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...

Last edited by Not_Hans_Stuck; Jun 5, 2011 at 08:25 PM.
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 10:12 AM
  #41  
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Hi,

does anyone have any ideas about how to pull a permanently stuck intake manifold?

I'm swapping the motor in a friends RX8.

I can't seem to figure out how to get a puller on it. I've also tried rigging up something with my portapower but I can't get a good hold on it anywhere and my expander attachment is broken.

I'm at a loss. Anybody have anything creative?

Thanks.

H
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 10:41 AM
  #42  
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what? the manifold should not be stuck make sure you pulled every bolt off. I guarantee you are missing one.
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 10:47 AM
  #43  
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If you have removed all of the bolts...the APV barrels may be so carboned up that the manifold won't pull out. DO NOT pull hard on it or you will break the mounting tabs off

Usually there will be some in/out movement with this though....so it should move a bit..otherwise look for a bolt

I had one like this on an engine I had...it took a lot of carb cleaner and time to carefully get it out

Otherwise you will need a new LIM
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 01:44 PM
  #44  
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Thanks. I counted 6 bolts, I think. It's sitting in carb cleaner right now. And will probably stay that way until next weekend at this point.

The flywheel bolt is odd. It looks like a 55mm. Guess I'll have to chase down the snapon guy tomorrow for that one. And it's not staked or pinned or anything. Weird.

H

Originally Posted by dannobre
If you have removed all of the bolts...the APV barrels may be so carboned up that the manifold won't pull out. DO NOT pull hard on it or you will break the mounting tabs off

Usually there will be some in/out movement with this though....so it should move a bit..otherwise look for a bolt

I had one like this on an engine I had...it took a lot of carb cleaner and time to carefully get it out

Otherwise you will need a new LIM
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 01:22 AM
  #45  
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Its on with about 450 ft lbs and I used a 2 1/8" not sure if its 55 mm or 56mm
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 09:05 AM
  #46  
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Thank you, sir! I sourced a Craftsman 2 1/8" socket from the local Sears store yesterday. It fits perfectly. My impact gun, on the other hand, was completely impotent.

I have a friend that owns every snapon tool ever made since he was sponsored by them for two race seasons. We'll see what he has up his sleeve. I want to take it off with an impact gun so I don't have to worry about holding the flywheel. And, I don't have this engine on a stand, either. I'm doing this bubba style. Well, not really. The full bubba would require to move it outside onto the front lawn.

H

Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Its on with about 450 ft lbs and I used a 2 1/8" not sure if its 55 mm or 56mm
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #47  
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I bought the stand adapter from mazdatrix it was totally worth it. if you are just breaking it down to send to a builder than its not worth it.

This is how we got the rear nut off.



and this is how we got he front bolt off.

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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
I bought the stand adapter from mazdatrix it was totally worth it. if you are just breaking it down to send to a builder than its not worth it.

This is how we got the rear nut off.



and this is how we got he front bolt off.

Yeah. The owner bought a Mazda crate motor. It's his wife's car.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 01:15 PM
  #49  
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factory use Loctite on the nut, so to break it easy , just heat the nut with propane torch, the nut ONLY, for maybe 3-5 minutes, then u can take it out easy.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 01:17 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Not_Hans_Stuck
Yeah. The owner bought a Mazda crate motor. It's his wife's car.
Thats love right there.
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