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built renesis with greddy turbo problems please help!!

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Old 07-18-2010, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bse50
Unfortunately you don't live inside a xbox and this isn't forza motorsport. You can't expect to copy\paste random parts to a car and enjoy the improvements.
First of all you have to have a clue about what you're doing, then pick the right tools for the right jobs and see what happens. If you don't have time to learn then simply don't take a car with 10:1 compression ratio and turbo it without even understanding that you will need a tune.
I'm sorry to say that with this mentality you just showed us that we wasted some time replying to you.
You don't have time to learn yet you want to school us on how your engine is bullet proof without a tune, indirectly admitting that we don't know what we're saying.
Pick a side. You either know what you're doing and can try to teach us something we may not know, or you're ignorant and you'd better listen to what some guys politely told you.
If you trust your tuner so much let him sort your problems out. Don't annoy us parroting some theories of somebody you're blaming for not making your car run right yet you trust enough to willingly ignore and bash the advices you're getting here.

I've also wasted my time reading this whole thread and if you have to take the car across Canada it's just your fault. Since you also stated that you know nothing about cars and FI don't throw pressure numbers around. 10psi means NOTHING. Flow and pressure are not the same. How much does the stock greddy flow at 10psi?
Please don't even say that it's hard to keep this car running with a turbo. The correct answer would be "If you're an idiot and run your turbo car without tune and without a boost controller then it won't last long".

ughh do you get what im sayin here? if i lived in California i would bring this car to a tuner and say make it fast as **** and hand over a wad of cash. but i cant do that here. im bringing this car to a mazda dealership and getting techs to work on it there and they dont have a clue about it. since this motor was put in the techs thought it was bad cuz of compression numbers and telling me get another oen built but no i find out that compresion will be low with these big seals.

and yes you did waste your time replying, specifically you. dont bother to reply anymore because obviously you just want to show of how much you know and point out how little i know without actually helping me.

and this is by no means an easy FI project so dont try and say it is. you get engine management with it but yet you have to read a thrid party Forum site to realize that you need another engine management and then do your own tune on it. an easy FI project would be like a Roush blower on a mustang. wap on the blower, send ur ecu to roush for a reflash its sent back throw it in and your 130+ hp to the good.
Old 07-18-2010, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by paulmasoner
i know man, but he seems to be catching on that things may not be as he thought they were, see the recent posts.

the hard part is gonna be the fact that he cant rely on his builder/mechanic to know whats going on and he doesnt sound like he'd be jumping into this hands on himself. he's either gonna have to get his feet wet in a hurry, or try conveying what he learns here to his builder/mechanic and ensure everything goes properly. which unfortunately is another disaster waiting to happen.

yeah that is humorous, and i'll keep my bet on the thermal pellet

i am getting some good out of the thread, and yes i do have to rely on what others who work on the car tell me. and i havnt turned a wrench on the car and never intend to, i'm trying to get it to work better no completely **** it over ha
Old 07-18-2010, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by paulmasoner
i was IMing with one of these guys and he had a fantastic idea... if the funding is not an issue, doesnt seem to be from your posts.... a very good move you could make would be to see if Charles R Hill would be interested in coming up to get you sorted out, do your troubleshooting and whatnot. He has some sort of moto like "have tools, will travel" He's a great vendor here with his company Black Halo Racing, and has a great reputation.

definitely something to keep on the back burner but im going to order the AP tomorrow with the custom calibration and see if i can get it to work that way first. i was under the impression that i had a bad build motor because it was less that 100 lbs but now that ive been told that its to be expected with big seals my misfire and stall issues are related to tune only.
Old 07-18-2010, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by paulmasoner
assuming these guys can help you get all sorted out, this will still be an issue for you. theres no such thing as what you are talking about. even the best designed systems here still need hands on capability. things go wrong, and they generally need to be addressed in a timely manner. this means you either need to have enough knowledge to use help and advice you get here, or you need to have someone competant around who can do the work.



dont quote me on this, but IIRC 10psi on the greddy turbo as supplied is pushing the limits of your max fuel flow if you still have stock injectors. and also puts the turbo into territory where the wastegate can barely function adequately. making boost curves very erratic. you will HAVE to have a boost controller to get near there w/o destroying the motor.

IMO, the greddy kit as it is sold should not EVER be making more than 5-6psi. thats what it was desgned for, and it is barely adequate for that. if you wanna turn it up any, you will absolutely need someone who can work on the car and know what they are doing

i doubt i will ever look for any more power out of this car , ive already bitten off more than i can chew
Old 07-18-2010, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mawnee
Just out of curiosity.....

How much HP did your builder tell you to expect with all these mods and your greddy kit?

I know..I'm baiting.....
the builder never told me any numbers . i dunno and probally never really know what the car makes because there is not dyno in the area but a rene with a street port, the greddy turbo kit running 5.6psi , a full exhaust witha catless midpipe , an underdrive pully . and A GOOD TUNE USING AN ACCESS PORT i dont think it would be outrageous to expect say 285-300 WHP ? i but i could be way off. so if i am please let me know how stupid i am
Old 07-19-2010, 07:21 AM
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Custom e-shaft is likely a 2-pc design with an added center bearing in the mid-iron, all I can think of any whoooooo ....

Last edited by TeamRX8; 07-19-2010 at 07:23 AM.
Old 07-19-2010, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by braden420
the builder never told me any numbers . i dunno and probally never really know what the car makes because there is not dyno in the area but a rene with a street port, the greddy turbo kit running 5.6psi , a full exhaust witha catless midpipe , an underdrive pully . and A GOOD TUNE USING AN ACCESS PORT i dont think it would be outrageous to expect say 285-300 WHP ? i but i could be way off. so if i am please let me know how stupid i am
yes, you are.

Its time to trash your engine and build a new one. (some parts might be re-usable)
Old 07-19-2010, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by braden420
the builder never told me any numbers . i dunno and probally never really know what the car makes because there is not dyno in the area but a rene with a street port, the greddy turbo kit running 5.6psi , a full exhaust witha catless midpipe , an underdrive pully . and A GOOD TUNE USING AN ACCESS PORT i dont think it would be outrageous to expect say 285-300 WHP ? i but i could be way off. so if i am please let me know how stupid i am

Originally Posted by nycgps
yes, you are.

Its time to trash your engine and build a new one. (some parts might be re-usable)
why would i listen to you? you cant even follow instructions? you agreed that i was stupid but never told me how stupid i was? hahaa

and im not gonna trash the motor, ive come to the point that the motor rocks but i need a tune. and i intend to get the Cobb today
Old 07-19-2010, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by braden420
definitely something to keep on the back burner but im going to order the AP tomorrow with the custom calibration and see if i can get it to work that way first. i was under the impression that i had a bad build motor because it was less that 100 lbs but now that ive been told that its to be expected with big seals my misfire and stall issues are related to tune only.
The AccessPORT will NOT fix mechanical problems.

Big apex seals do not "cause" low compression.
As I've told you already, you need to get a proper compression check.

If your engine is stuffed, the tune will do little to nothing for your situation.
Old 07-19-2010, 10:36 AM
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Another point that was brought up in this thread that might have been glossed over is if you are running the intake which comes with the Greddy turbo kit that is a known source of trouble since the airflow through the MAF is not smooth enough. Since you are getting a tune now you will probably want to pick this up before you start tunning since it needs to be factored in.

Most people run modified Mazdaspeed or AEM cold air intakes but you can make your own as long as the pipes are the stock 3 inch diameter and there is a long straight pipe prior to the MAFs (with screens before and afterwards).
Old 07-19-2010, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by paulmasoner
dont quote me on this, but IIRC 10psi on the greddy turbo as supplied is pushing the limits of your max fuel flow if you still have stock injectors. and also puts the turbo into territory where the wastegate can barely function adequately. making boost curves very erratic. you will HAVE to have a boost controller to get near there w/o destroying the motor.

IMO, the greddy kit as it is sold should not EVER be making more than 5-6psi. thats what it was desgned for, and it is barely adequate for that. if you wanna turn it up any, you will absolutely need someone who can work on the car and know what they are doing
Plus the GReddy can't supply enough flow for the rotary at 10psi anywhere past the powerband. So essentially anything above 7psi with the GReddy is pointless for tuning above 7k.
Old 07-20-2010, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
The AccessPORT will NOT fix mechanical problems.

Big apex seals do not "cause" low compression.
As I've told you already, you need to get a proper compression check.

If your engine is stuffed, the tune will do little to nothing for your situation.
the last compression check was done about 1500 km ago and the car does seem to work alot better since then maybe because it is more broke in but the compression test was done then by a regular analog compression tester with the check valve taken out . then you have to watch the gauge as some one cranks the engine because it doesn't hold a value. the rpm for the test was cranking rpm 1000-1200 rpm. the results were 85psi on front rotor and 90 psi on the rear rotor .


i can get another compression test done this week if needed. the dealership didnt use a rotory tester as i first thought as they dont have one
Old 07-20-2010, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by braden420
The results were 85psi on front rotor and 90 psi on the rear rotor.
When you get a compression test done you will need to have the compression of each face of each rotor (so six values total).
Old 07-20-2010, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by IronTanuki
When you get a compression test done you will need to have the compression of each face of each rotor (so six values total).
how do i get that done? you can see my predicament here tho the mazda dealership doesnt even have the tools to do a proper compression test for a renesis here.
Old 07-20-2010, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by braden420
how do i get that done? you can see my predicament here tho the mazda dealership doesnt even have the tools to do a proper compression test for a renesis here.
I can't speak for your local dealerships but Mazda has issued a warranty for all 13B-MSPs for up to 100k miles which applies to USA and Canada. Before you can get your engine replaced under warranty you need to complain about lack of power and then they will do a compression test. To me this sounds like since dealerships must honor this they all SHOULD have a rotary compression tester...

Failing that you could always pick up something like this and do it yourself:
http://www.twistedrotors.com/
Old 07-20-2010, 02:21 PM
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Braden, keep your head up bro, listen to what these guys say, don't take it personal(there are tons of stuck up D-bags on this site). If your Mazda dealer isn't able to run a compression tests on the 8 you need to get the hell out of there. That likely means they aren't certified to even work on rotarys. If they don't sell rx8's then chances are they don't work on them.
Old 07-20-2010, 02:56 PM
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thats how they test the compression at this dealership. and i live in newfoundland theres probably about a dozen rx8's on the island, its most likely that there is no rotary tester because no one has needed a new engine so its not an issue. but i still dont know how you are suppose to do a compression test for each side of a rotor? like dont you have to crank the engine when doing a compression test, how are you suppose to get a value for each side?


and im hangin in there, i got the AP on the way and paid for the mm custom calibration so if this motor is mechanically sound which is what im kinda leaning towards, it will be properly tuned. and if this motor isnt mechanically sound i'll get it rebuilt and then have that tuned but what ever the case i'll have a tuned built turbo rotary some time in the future and it will be a decent set up.
Old 07-20-2010, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by IronTanuki
I can't speak for your local dealerships but Mazda has issued a warranty for all 13B-MSPs for up to 100k miles which applies to USA and Canada. Before you can get your engine replaced under warranty you need to complain about lack of power and then they will do a compression test. To me this sounds like since dealerships must honor this they all SHOULD have a rotary compression tester...

Failing that you could always pick up something like this and do it yourself:
http://www.twistedrotors.com/
ohh i seee, you need a tester like that to ge thte values for each side of the rotor. sheittt, dont really wanna have to buy one of those. DAMN NEWFOUNDLAND AND ITS LACK OF ROTARY EQUIPMENT!
Old 07-21-2010, 05:23 AM
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I'd be willing to fly back to Newfoundland to help you out....LOL only from June-August though - that place gets cold as fawk!

If you want to do a down and dirty test for broken parts, check for evenness. On all three faces and both rotors. But to know if you have low compression overall, you are going to need the tester.
Old 07-21-2010, 07:52 AM
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I'd ship you a digital compression tester but it just about takes an engineering degree to understand how to use it (and a laptop)
Old 07-21-2010, 08:10 AM
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Kane whats the deal if we wanted to get you to tune a boost controller? I don't have one yet but I'm thinking next summer and if you can get a consistent few more lbs of boost out of the GReddy turbo would probably be worth it...
Old 07-21-2010, 08:23 AM
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I have a BC tuning thread somewhere... and it's free! LOL

But we can always set something up if you'd rather do it in person. Or you can fly Jeff up too.
Old 07-21-2010, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Kane
I have a BC tuning thread somewhere... and it's free! LOL

But we can always set something up if you'd rather do it in person. Or you can fly Jeff up too.
Okay thanks haha... I'll have a look at your thread
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