carbonRX8

iTrader: (1)

^^^ well, I think that is what everyone was saying, but if you want to get all brutal, there you go.



The dude already blew an engine, and you think that beating him over the head is going to get him a clue? I don't think so.

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

heh, sorry the truth is brutal. i figured i wasnt saying anything new, but to be sure i would have had to read all the responses and then figure out wtf was said in the first place. wasnt gonna put that much effort into reading that

lol no beatings! IMO i do not think anything will help, beatings or not. what little i saw looks like he has read or beentold some things NUMEROUS times, yet still comes and questions it, and obviously has no understanding or opinion of his own.... so if little jonny couldnt figure out his math homework, and he wouldnt copy the paper Suzy was holding in front of him.. he's probably gonna repeat 3rd grade

braden420

im not really worried about the engine blowing with these 3mm seals and the fact that im gettin rich codes. to my understanding running rich means running safe but like a piece of ****. and the car is most definitely drivable, it goes like a scaled cat, like is said earlier id probably estimate it in the low to mid 200's in whp. its just that intermittently it misfires and stalls. I know i need a tune but i want to eliminate the possibility of a badly built motor first. I have read most of the threads on greddy and do understand Fi well but not to the point to make a map or tune the car myself. as i said earlier I live in the outskirts of no where , there is no tuners, there is dynos and this is the only boosted 8 in my entire province. since i am not at able to tune the car my self or have it tuned within the province, until i was informed that MM could do a custom tune for me with out being with the car i thought i was at the mercy of greddy maps. and as i stated earlier my next plan of action before realizing the MM Cobb tune was really an option for me was to send the whole damn car across the country on a flat bed truck to some one who did know what they were doing. SO MY MAIN QUESTION NOW IS ARE 90LBS FRONT AND 85LBS SECOND, REASONABLE FOR A BUILT RENESIS? if i find out yes the Access port will be ordered today!

bhop

Not worried about blowing another engine?? Your money must be long....
I would listen to PAUL/CARBON. Personally I would start over with a different builder


Or you can through a 13b in there like me.
(Tuner/Builders are infinite)

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

look, i'm not gonna ddress all of your specific statements, and i'm not saying any/all/none of them are right or wrong.

but the fact that you think you are in safe territory just because you are currently running rich only reinforces the idea that you dont have a clue what you are doing.
aside from multiple issues related to instillation etc that at this point i'd bet money on you have wrong/incorrectly done. if you feel "safe" right now, you're either ignorant and repeating the mistakes of dozens of other from 4 years ago. Or you're just an idiot.

Here's a clue: THE EMANAGE WILL NOT HOLD A TUNE for starters, so "safe" today, maybe be boom boom next week. we didnt come in here just to make stuff up and laugh as we have you do silly things to your car.

I have no tolerance for people who dont wanna learn for themselves OR just friggin listen. Good luck with your car, you're going to need it. I'll be laughing from the other end of the internet when you pop another

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

actually i will address this... you already got an answer to this from arguably one of the more knowledgable and most well respected minds on the forum(MM)... if you didnt come here to listen to answers given to your questions then just GTFO and quit wasting everyones time

man... i can totally be understanding of the situation geographically etc.. but the fact of the matter is, you found the forum now... there is a LOT you've obviously missed out on in the past that is free knowledge and experience here. sadly missing out on that may have cost you the first motor(ie it could have been prevented) but if you dont at least pretend to give a rats *** about what you are told from multiple sources you will continue to loose motors.

IronTanuki

Just because your car seems to be running rich under some/most conditions doesn't mean that it's not running lean in others. Even if your built engine is dead you will need the AP sooner or later and if you wait until later then you will not have the option of buying a new one thus not have the option of a discounted price on MM's tuning.

You don't have the proper equipment to even diagnose the state of your engine/tune with AFR/EGT/IAT/mass airflow/fuel pressure/etc but instead are relying on a misguided assumption that running rich means you are in no danger of causing damage.

Cattywampus

Maybe I missed something here. All this talk about his bad tunning methods but not mention of the possibility of bad coils/plugs/wires. Misfires randomly would hint towards ignition issues. His tune sucks obviously but have your changed plugs/colis/wires with the new build?

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

police - you're absolutely right, thats definately another thing to consider as an issue. ATM though we have KNOWN junk/issues with hardware in the car that needs to be dealt with before its driven or inspected forother potential probs.

definately right though

braden420

i was obviously reluctant to buy a AP right from the get go when i had a brand new e-manage ultimate ready to go in. the car is a 2008 model, one year ran NA then the next year i went FI with no problems. sorry if i have disrespected the rx8 gods by not buying an AP right away because everyones talking about it like its blasphemy. and if a rotor spins through the hood right now its not a big deal because my builder has called this motor "indestructable" even without tune.


And to the other members that are trying to be helpful unlike someee paul ha, its new coils and the 4ths set of plugs on a hard break in.

i'm not looking to start feud or be **** on, im looking for help!

braden420

the bulider will rebuild it for free if it blowss

carbonRX8

iTrader: (1)

It is interesting that you are saying that you are not worried about poping your engine because you have 3mm seals but then you ask in the same post if you have popped your seals.

This is indicative of illogical thinking. I am not calling you out; I am telling you not to trust your current level of understanding.

And if you think you cant pop seals because they are 3mm, you are wrong there too.

There is nothing to say that you are not running lean in one spot and rich elsewhere. My tune is decent but I have some rough spots that I am massaging, particularly where the AVP opens around 6500. ) Except you wouldn't know that because you haven't spent the $200 on a wideband to save your $4000 engine.

And while builders might give you a warrenty, that may not hold if you deliberately drove it with the wrong tune.

Stop driving, read, edjumacate yourself, put a plan in place, check that plan against expert thinking, execute that plan meticulously and dont cut corners.

tubingchamp

iTrader: (3)

No rotary is "indestructable" without a good tune. Even WITH a good tune.

The seals will not make it impervious to detonation.

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

your builder obviously doesnt have a clue either

doesnt seem like your wanting much help, cause you arent listening. i havent been nice, because you've basically insulted us. you ask questions, you get responses, and you in turn tell us "no, i'm good. i'm gonna do my own thing anyway. oh but btw please help me still" (insert my avatar here)

get rid of the emanage, your tuner, and your belief that you have a clue what you are talking about. then listen to what ppl here are telling you

IronTanuki

Aside from the fact that there is no such thing as an "indestructible engine" especially of the rotary variety earlier in your posts you stated that the engine was built by someone local and no one in your area knows anything about rotaries much less boosted ones. So what exactly makes your builder an authority on the sturdiness of the engine?

From my understanding a rotary will rarely survive a detonation event without undergoing major if not catastrophic damage.

I am new to this forum like you so feel free to dismiss anything I say based on my relative noobness but I have read countless threads here over many many hours to get as informed as possible on my own turbo project. In my experience this community tends to highly value heavy practical experience and research (and not just parroting but actually understanding and applying that research) and and is ruthless in calling out ignorance or unwarranted arrogance. I think everyone in this thread is just trying to help you in their own way but you seem to be getting defensive rather than taking a step back and looking at what people are trying to say.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Dude, you so completely and totally my hero right now.
Seriously.

Mawnee

Welcome to the community! You are going to fit in just fine

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I think we need a new forum with just one topic

"Why you shouldn't FI this car "

then just link all the nightmare threads so people get some idea of what they are in for if they don't do their homework.

IronTanuki

Thanks for the kind words guys Of the many car forums I've lurked on over the years this one is the best imo and I'm proud to be a part of it.

Anyways... to stay on topic good luck with straightening out your issues Braden.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

HAHA nice.


I still say we break this thing up into two issues like it should be, mechanical and tuning.

You are worried about both, and have symptoms of both (maybe) - so start with the mechanical and walk through your system. How is the turbo plumbed, BC set up - Wastegate operating, fuel, air, spark, (and how do you KNOW the status = gauges), injectors tested, pump tested, fuel pressure, vacuum leak....yada yada.

Log trims, look at your MAF housing..... etc - then when you do your homework and decide you are good mechanically, then work on the tune.

Cattywampus

Do what I did. Install the kit properly with all the fixes (search greddy fixes). Buy a proper intake (aem, custom 3", etc ). Buy a boost gauge and a proper bov that recirculates. Get a Cobb AP very quick from MazdaManiac and have it tuned. Use the AP to monitor your afr, intake temps, coolant temps, stft, ltft, etc. Buy the BHR ignition kit. With that you will have a nice safe tune. Good luck.

bse50

What kind of "custom" eccentrc shaft are you running? Just curious.

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

ya'll arent gonna be able to jump right into troubleshooting here... the OP made it clear that he doesnt know what his AFRs are, just that his mazda mechanic said it was throwing CEL for rich. This tells us 1) he doesnt have gauges 2) he doesnt have any idea what his tune looks like 3) he is not going to be doing anything here on his own if he needs someone else to read a CEL for him. And also clearly stated his belief that this is an indestructable motor, because his builder told him so.... dont expect to walk him through hands on troubleshooting etc with any ease when the owner doesnt know what he is doing and doesnt have the proper equipment.

Braden: I've been a dick here and I apologize for some of that. I hope I made a point though(besides what an ******* i am) Some of the folks in this thread trying to help have loads of experience and knowledge under their belt. But for them to help your situation needs to be transparent. If you dont know what you are doing or saying, just tell em. No one knows until they learn, god knows i've been a fool on here enough. But if you continue to have the attitude that resulted in i'll tell you from past experience that peoples patience will run out and you'll probably quit getting help

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if the mechanic/builder/whatever said "You are running rich." as in Braden has lots of cash to throw around on a third engine and not that the engine had a low AFR.

Anywho...joking aside...that rich CEL could have been old...real old...like from when you had a bad O2 sensor who knows...clear it and see if it returns. Your misfire code is probably also related to the same root cause if you are rich and being thrown because of your custom shaft which will require a custom tune to fix. It could also be related to like 50 other things...but your tune is going to be the most in question with a custom engine and custom turbo setup.

As for your constant question about if your compression is good based on your seal change...you aren't providing enough data as MM said in another thread. You need to know what the compression ratio is on each face of the rotor. My understanding is also that your car needs to be running to get this measurement accurately. It's not like you can crank the car and expect proper compression, you need combustion to occur. Your engine builder should have a compression tester for rotary engines...if he doesn't...run away...far far FAR away.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I have a feeling that this "shop" who did the engine for him has closed to no idea what they were doing.

why would you want to do 3mm seals in the first place? the cost to drill/mill the stock rotor to accept 3 mm seal will probably cost a few hundred, 3mm seal is a bit cheaper but ... if its me I would rather get 2mm 1 piece or 2 piece Ceramic Apex from NRS (which is what Im doing soon)

+ if this shop can't get 3mm right, I kinda doubt they did the porting right.

Anyway its too late now, sounds like another rebuild coming soon.