813KR$

eventually I will pick up an engine from you, but currently it is not in the funds. Im looking at a couple used $1200-$1500 engines to get me by for now.

You guys carry the seals/springs to rebuild this myself? side seals, apex seal, gasket kit?

crimson-rain

I'm sorry but I'm a bit nervous now.

I'm at ~127K. Leaking coolant from the upper and/or lower hose (about to replace those), SSV ticking noise, and she miraculously still pulls nicely, but idles roughly sometimes. On cold starts, sometimes white smoke would blow out the exhaust. Enough to cause some people to stop and ask if everything is alright. After she's warmed up, she acts like nothing ever happened so to speak. Drives fine and Idles ok except for that SSV ticking noise.

I've used Royal Purple 5w30 since maybe 50K or 60K miles. Before that I used Castrol Synth 5w30 and before that Penzoil 5w20 for maybe 4 or 5 oil changes after getting the car at 11500 miles. I changed the plugs religiously. Possibly too much; every 10 or 12k miles since 60k (I was changing them before that just no where near as often and probably not enough). The coils were replaced with Mazsport (spell check) ignition system, AEM CAI, RP Super cat, and a RB catback exhaust is also installed. Engine mounts replaced once. I typically drive very conservatively shifting at 4K rpm. I do take spirited runs here and there redlining every now and then during the run.

Should I start considering a phone call to Mazmart? Long time ago I said I was going to call them when I got up there in mileage. Also, there aren't any good rotary shops near me in Northern VA anymore. At least that I know of. To be honest I'd rather ship my car to Mazmart if that's a "not a horrible hit to the wallet" option. Any advice???

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

Mine's pushing 143,000+ miles. I started to notice the rough idle less than 1000 miles ago, and last week the car presented a CEL and loss of power between 4.5-5k rpm during acceleration. I changed the spark plugs (wires and coils will follow next week) and the engine improved; both the mpg and response of power. I haven't cleaned the MAF and the Eccentric Shaft Sensor, hopefully that will make the idle a little smoother.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

if you're sure you are getting white smoke at start up (usually means coolant seal issue) , then it might be a good time to give Paul @ Mazmart a call and set the engine up. Cuz if you wait until your engine fails, the failure might trash the engine totally (or at least the rear housing) which result in a useless core (meaning you have to pay more money)

crimson-rain

I am very sure it's white smoke at start up. But it doesn't happen with every cold start. To be honest it doesn't happen all that often, but enough to worry. If what you say is true, than this REALLY sucks for me.

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

hopefully we can see pics of the 145K mile engine..even if the thread is a bit old..

bhop

Well, how white is it when it's COLD, lol? You say it does not happen often?


I swapped a healthy motor at 110,000 miles for a 13b rew on purpose but I would like to see 200,000 miles out of a stock Renesis...

ASH8

Are you using COOLANT???...i.e. Is coolant slowing going down in your overflow bottle??...it should be quite noticeable within a weeks use?..

Sorry to ask, but you are not getting confused with "normal" winter condensation at cold start up??