Yes sir , Mazdamaniac tuned her, she spins to 10k rpm ! No leaning or bogging out, I am running consistant 11-11.5 AFR's under WOT, she pulls like a beast from 6k to redline.
Getting her dynoed the 31st of this month! Had to stop on my project because I had a son,so he took priority last year. But in January I installed the BHR ignition,Racing Beat headers,mid pipe, full exhaust, and Of course MM tuned her. I love this car to death, and now the moment of truth comes on the 31st.

Its funny , many on this forum have had problems with Atkins seals. Yet people who I meet at the drag strip all swear by Atkins and have had no problems. So why are the RX8 guys on this forum having problems? LOL. Something doesnt add up....

 

I'd love to see a data log showing 10,000RPM, can you post one up real quick?

What doesn't add up? It's just shitty quality control. It's not limited to the RX-8 guys on this forum either.

 

Im just pointing out the blatantly obvious truth that this build is following no set path, and has had no prior planning. Your concerning yourself with problems that are irrelevant to what you are trying to do. You still need to pull the motor and figure out what parts you need and how you are going to get it rebuilt.

Yet you are sitting here replacing parts that you have no need replacing, please enlighten me the benefits of replacing a working OE pump with a new one?

Priorities just aren't present in this build. Chaos regardless of the argument you give towards it is still an unorganized catastrophe which is where this project is headed if you are prioritizing replacing working components with new working components when you have much more pressing and daunting tasks to worry about.

As far as the argument of the improvements over the RE-medy products, more people swear by them then those that don't and considering the benefits of them over the stock cooling system (which is a great system for street cars, but could use some improvements on the track), coupled with that fact that the OP is reliability motivated and no one is going to argue that the RE-medy products perform worse than OE their is no reason not to get them.

If your going to waste 200 bucks on replacing components that don't need replacing, why cheap out when the 300 buck pump also increases the performance of the cooling system and reliability (subjectively opinionated but overall agreed with)

So far the only conclusion anyone can provide on this thread, is the OP is cheap and un-prioritized. Also seems that you are not really researching your build, doubtful the OP even was aware of the upgraded pump before he wasted his money on an OE

 

True about the quality control. Maybe I was the fortunate one that got a good set of of apex seals from them.

Of course you would ask me to post data logs while I am at work, lol.I don't have that data in front of me at the moment. When I get home I will post it for you. Here is a pic of me reving it at idle.


The highlight of the datalogs was that i was pulling 230ish-240 under the MAF readings. MM said thats what the Mazda lites are pulling.

Im not reading into anything as I take the humble approach about my builds. Will see what she spits out on the 31st.

 

We shall see indeed. FYI, the factory tach is not accurate and becomes even more inaccurate at high RPM's. I get why you said 10,000RPM though. And generally anything over 9,000RPM is not recommended by anyone, even on race engines. Good luck at the dyno.

 

Thanks man! Good or bad, I just want to know and then I can share the results with the forum, then get ripped up and down a new one, lol. If this motor turns out really good results , I know I will be ripped to shreds and accused of cheating,the dyno was calibrated wrong, blah , blah , blah.... The only thing nobody will say , "damn, it actually worked."

Yes its 500 rpms off.Well ported motors are different, they actually make more HP in the upper rpm range. Everybody always questions me about balance issues. According to my builder and MM, they both agree on this issue that 10k isn't really high at all. The motor simply doesn't make any power up there (unless it is ported).
An OE Renesis rotating assembly is pretty good out to 13k or more. There really isn't much to "balance" - the stroke is so short and epitrochoidal motion is so irregular that the perpendicular inertial loads are relatively small.
Its not a piston engine...

My builder RX-3 spins at a lofty 19k rpm,(13B BP) of course he has a Linco tranny and a turbo build. His car is for drag racing only.

 

Ok.

 

Why is your oil light on? That can't be good at 10k rpm.

 

Good question , here is the answer.
As you can see my car is warmed up , when i was taking pictures I accidentally shut my car off, then turned it back on. When I turn my car on , the oil light stays on for about 30 sec then goes off. Yes , i should of taken the pic with the light off , stupid me...

I have other pics of me revving the car with no warning lights on. All is well, so no worries, lol.

 

Here is a video for your enjoyment. If you listen , you can hear flames popping in the background. And no warning lights on.

https://www.facebook.com/raphaelnnic...type=3&theater

 

Good, for second I was thinking it won't last.

 

HAHA, your not the only one to say that when others see that pic they say the same thing. I'll start posting the rev pic without the warning light on. Did you see the video?

 

The engine can spin to whatever you want but our trans is junk.

I have taken my ported renny to 10k as well, no big deal.

I was running OEM cryo treated side seals, they didn't like 10 psi though .

 

The vid won't pull up actually.

 

Well the stock tranny is only good for 13.5K rpm. After that she goes boom.

If you build another turbo motor , go with Black Apex seals. Cryo treated seals are great for N/A or ported Renesis motors. Like I said , 21k miles on my rebuild with no issues.

 

So your rev limit was set to 10,000RPM in ATR? Highly doubtful.

 

Here is the video.

 

Details please .....

 

Brettus , I jumped the gun on that info. According to my builder, NGR and PAC racing is developing a turbo Renesis drag car that should be in operation by the end of summer(fingers crossed). There 6 sec RX-8 is powered by a tripple rotor turbo application.

Watch this.

 

The "black" Stuff is leftover from the nitrating process. I have RA super seals that are black they ate up the front housing during break-in which apparently is a common thing for the 7 guys.



I dont think you can do it through ATR I think you need the pro tuning software, its similar to adding the additional calc load tables for us turbo guys.

Just need to add a column for 10,000 RPMs and raise the fuel cut/rev limit up.

 

So your saying MM did that in your tune? Why on earth would that be done since it's pretty well known there is no power up there.

 

That's the thing when its ported the power doesn't drop off... It either stays where its at or goes up slightly.

I don't know why it doesn't drop off, but I've seen it in CRH's ported build and mine first hand.

 

I watched all of those dyno days and I have seen many sheets, I have never seen a Renesis make power over 9,000RPM, even in Eric Meyers 233WHp was made at like 8500RPM.

 

9k, do you mean "make more power" ?

Or do you mean that it literally falls on it's face like someone let off the gas?


Just curious.

 

Yeah I mean not fall off, they all fall off after 8500RPM or so.