Agreed - any FI option can blow an engine, especially if there is a hidden problem with an engine. FI can make things show up right away that would take longer NA. It could be no fault of the kit or engine management.

I apologize - I didn't know about slavearm's blown engine. Do we have any details on that one yet?

As far as the IntX and temperature adjustment - I believe there is an optional temperature sensor that can help with that. Don't know much about it, just throwing it out there.

 

I've been running the greddy kit since 2004 and 500 miles on the car. I have it set to 7 lbs of boost and have had no problems with the engine. Although I have had to replace a clutch . The car currently has 17k on it since I don't run it much.

 

Anybody else see the similarity here?

This one is a little different but still lots of similarities.

Theories as to why?

 

fanman got bitten by emanage blue.

mazdamaniac got bitten by carelessness.

and the rest can be explained by weak engine parts, not enough cooling, bad fuel management, too much timing, etc.

the rear rotor is much more prone to dying since it's hotter.

 

The hypothesis is that the rear rotor isn't getting cooled as well as the front rotor.

Now, when I finish inventing my 6 cycle wankel engine, all will be cured

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Six_stroke_engine

 

Consider the MM/BHR turbo cancelled indefinitely.

 

I am an optimist. I am not trying to point out that there is a problem with the greddy or that mounting location. I just want to figure out why and if anything can be done to fix it.

 

you listed rotorocks, which is mounted no where close to the manifold.

 

Eh? What you talking about Willis?

 

hahhaa you really fooled them there Ray......you're joking right???

 

Sounds like you blew your own engine out of carelessness.

Guess what? The rx8 doesn't have the capacity of an OEM turbo setup. It will never be like an OEM setup unless you go get rid of the factory PCM.

I'm not seeing why re-tuning every few weeks is a problem.

Hmm, plug in laptop. click the arrow key up a few times, unhook laptop. 5 min to retune. I'm not seeing why its a big deal.

 

I also noted that his setup is different from the rest.

I wasn't trying to say that manifold mounted turbos hold more heat in the rear rotor housing exhaust ports where the renesis already has problems, even though I have heard that before. I was just pointing out that every failure was apex seal on the rear rotor housing.

 

Anyone besides me fully encased their turbo in heat wrap at the Greddy Location?

I have like 0 heat coming into the engine bay now (manifold has blanket; turbo has 3 blankets and downpipe has 1). I can put a bare foot under the turbo after boosting it now. But I don't have enough miles to say anything definitive yet.

 

i have a blanket between the turbo and the engine. Jeff ships the GT3071R kit with it for this purpose.

I would prefer ceramic coating the turbo, but that means tearing it apart and then reassembling..

 

What's that mean? The RX-8's factory PCM handles FI just fine. It's no different than the subbies or any other MAF based vehicle with FI.

It's exactly like OEM.

 

Yeah I have Jeff's Blanket on the manifold; but it was still a bit too warm for me. That whole area is a PITA to wrap effectively; and pulling it out isn't an option for me - too much work.

But with some creativity I got it to work without having to take anything off.

 

Can I pick up some more heat wrap from a generic auto parts store or do I have to go to a speed shop?

Mine is pretty gnarly after being torn out of the car a couple of times whilst swapping engines.

 

Get the DEI turbo blanket kit; gives you everything you need.

 

and it seems(?) the na guys are loosing the front rotor.
OD

 

No kidding?

It would be great to have better stats AND autopsies on the dead engines.

 

I'm one of those na guys that blew my front rotor.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/dearly-departed-13b-pics-141755/

I'm currently building a custom turbo set up based around a gt3574.

my old fc t2 blew the second rotor do to poor tuning. (lean condition)

I will take this info into account once I'm fi'ed.

 

int-X can adjust for air temp changes just fine, and once you have developed the year round tune, it will work well. Altitude may be a bit different, but air temps are no problem. The deal with the damn Int-X is it's coarseness. That is what I hate the most.