For those sorry sods like me who have grenaded a Renesis; it may prove helpful to see if there's a pattern emerging with the blown engines.

Here's the questions (please add more useful questions if you can think of any):

1. Did you break an Apex seal on the front rotor or rear rotor?

2. If not an Apex seal, did you break a side seal? If so, which one?

3. What year was your engine manufactured?

4. Which kit did you have installed (or was it a custom)?

5. How many miles did you have on the engine before you installed the turbo?

6. How many miles had you put on the turbocharged engine before it popped?

7. What wheel horsepower were you making?

8. What were the conditions under which the engine blew (were you getting on it, cruising, what RPM, etc.)?

 

What are your answers to those questions?

 

I've blown 2 engines, the second time was a rebuild of the first engine.

1. Did you break an Apex seal on the front rotor or rear rotor?

Rear rotor both times

2. If not an Apex seal, did you break a side seal? If so, which one?

Apex seal

3. What year was your engine manufactured?

2004

4. Which kit did you have installed (or was it a custom)?

GReddy + bigger injectors, Xede, & Racing Beat OMP mod

5. How many miles did you have on the engine before you installed the turbo?

4k, 0k (rebuilt w/turbo)

6. How many miles had you put on the turbocharged engine before it popped?

3.5k, 12k

7. What wheel horsepower were you making?

*****

8. What were the conditions under which the engine blew (were you getting on it, cruising, what RPM, etc.)?

#1: part throttle at 25 mph
#2: WOT at 7500 rpm in 3rd gear

 

Do you know your ignition timing for both incidents, and also your AFRs?

Also curious as was your tuning modified between the first and second engine...and if so, how?

 

1. Did you break an Apex seal on the front rotor or rear rotor?

Rear rotor.

2. If not an Apex seal, did you break a side seal? If so, which one?

It was an Apex.

3. What year was your engine manufactured?

2005

4. Which kit did you have installed (or was it a custom)?

Custom. With T70 turbocharger at the time of failure.

5. How many miles did you have on the engine before you installed the turbo?

@ 17K put on nitrous.
@ 20K dumped the nitrous and put on the turbo

6. How many miles had you put on the turbocharged engine before it popped?

24K with the turbo and 3K with Nitrous.

Total 27K with FI.

7. What wheel horsepower were you making?

Had to be over 300 @12 PSI

8. What were the conditions under which the engine blew (were you getting on it, cruising, what RPM, etc.)?

800 rpm, Idling. at 12.8:1 -13.5:1 AF, But it must have detonated and craked the seal before because I just installed the new T70, and it most likely had a ping at the 6200 RPM as the APV opened and it went lean.
It is just that it the seal completely broke later.

 

I'm sure this never gets up dated.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/turbo-owners-fill-out-please-121542/
but if you read it you notice most people with a blown motor blame it on tunes.

 

Thanks.

I'm interested only in blown engines w/turbos. 'Bad tune' is not enough information. Also, 'bad tune' is almost impossible to avoid (change in temp = change in air density = different AFR, etc.) until now with the AccessPort which will chase a tune to target maps instead of the static maps of now-obsolete standalones like the eMangle, IntX, & my Xede.

 

this scares me as i am going turbo on my 04 with 43K on it

 

I too am installing a m a z sport stage 1 kit on my 2004 50k, 8. The shop guy recommended to "open the ports". I just went to see him and he recommended me that. I was talking with the girl in charge of the parts at m a z sport and she stated 16 PSI! The shop guy im dealing with deals with rotary engines only (hard to find) and he was astonished at the fact that I said that. He was basically saying "lets go the safe way" and "keep the PSI lower" , around 9 he thinks. He's not doing the tuning though. What do U guys think? I need some info since you guys might know, based on your engine experience.

Thanks

 

My engine was ported. Didn't stop it blowing up.

16 psi? Maybe if you're running pure 104 octane, live in a perpetually cold climate, and pull so much timing that the car won't run.

Otherwise, running over 1 bar of boost will grenade your engine with utter certainty and with a quickness.

 

how much PSi before kaboom?! do u think it was the tuning? One more question what is the max PSI for a dailey driver. I m thinking of Two maps on the boost controller. One for an occasional daily drive (not much) and the autocross/ 1/4 mile.


thanks

 

3. What year was your engine manufactured?
04
4. Which kit did you have installed (or was it a custom)?
greddy
5. How many miles did you have on the engine before you installed the turbo?
25k?
6. How many miles had you put on the turbocharged engine before it popped?
10k?
7. What wheel horsepower were you making?
275whp ish
8. What were the conditions under which the engine blew (were you getting on it, cruising, what RPM, etc.)?

oddly downshifting.. e-shaft broke....

 

you have posted a bunch of crap. please read the first post.. and answer that stuff.

btw, you are full of crap. !

i hear that z sport stuff is wack!

beers

 

What you want for daily depends on what sort of power you want while daily driving. I run 8psi for daily and plan to use 11 on the track.

 

How and where did your eccentric shaft break?

 

im assuming inside the engine.

 

It's a legitimate question. E-shafts don't just break often. So which bearing went bad, etc...is interesting information.

 

PSI is not the right question. What we're all after is the highest mass airflow rate. That is, how many oxygen molecules can you get in the combustion chamber per unit time.

All other things being equal, a bigger turbo will shove more air into the engine for a given PSI, which is good not only because you're not thrashing the turbo but also because the inlet charge is likely to be cooler too.

The downside of a bigger turbo is more lag since there's more mass to get moving. The 3071r sounds like a good fit since it spools up quite nicely yet can stuff enough air into the engine to make decent power.

 

If your going to be running high boost meth injection is a must.

 

what do u consider high boost? anything 14lbs and up?

 

OK. I'll play!

1. Did you break an Apex seal on the front rotor or rear rotor?

Rear both times

2. If not an Apex seal, did you break a side seal? If so, which one?

Apex seal corner piece both times

3. What year was your engine manufactured?

both 2004

4. Which kit did you have installed (or was it a custom)?

custom - Turbonetics T3/T4

5. How many miles did you have on the engine before you installed the turbo?

IDK. I think 20k on the first and 15k on the second, give or take

6. How many miles had you put on the turbocharged engine before it popped?

about 25k on the first and 10k on the second

7. What wheel horsepower were you making?

260 on the first 280+ on the second

8. What were the conditions under which the engine blew (were you getting on it, cruising, what RPM, etc.)?

First engine: Overheated (260°F coolant), mile+ altitude, 115°F ambient, WOT, 4th gear, +12 PSI climbing a hill in boost for more than 20 seconds.

Second: light throttle, first gear, 50°F ambient, cold engine. 21+ PSI because of undiscovered failed wastegate line.

GReddy e-manage in both cases. Tuning was not suspect - driver was, however. No way to cover either of those conditions any better other than to avoid them, which is a driver error.

 

I think almost everyone has a problem with the rear rotor popping an Apex seal?

 

The rear runs the leanest and the hottest, especially on a turbo application.

 

Hottest I understand, but why leaner?

 

Ughhh....so,...going turbo....should we upgrade or get new the apex seals as well?