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Slash has come to the same conclusion I did many years ago . Stock apex seals are too brittle to run in a high boost Renesis . Your experiences are somewhat different I know ,but from what I've heard , none of your sarx mates run anywhere near the whp levels that slash and myself do .So I really don't think you have an appreciation for the issues we face .
We actually don't care if the the aftermarket seals give only half the housing wear .
Well said! Agreed, I am less concerned about overall longevity and more concerned with not completely grenading more motors.
That thread is what has me on the fence about aftermarket seals. I just feel like it's hard to beat mazda's years of R&D.
Yeah, there is just so much room for error and no real engineering that I have seen in terms of milling and using aftermarket seals of unknown makeup. My buddy is at 25k on his Goopy seals but personally I would never them. If you talk to the successful race rotary engine builders (I mean Engman, Drummond, etc) they will tell you OEM or Ianetti ($1800.00) and that is it.
But hopefully Slash will be the trend setter and make 500WHP and have the engine last foeva.
That thread is what has me on the fence about aftermarket seals. I just feel like it's hard to beat mazda's years of R&D.
I don't have anything against OEM for lower boost or NA. If I was going to stay under 15psi I would likely have stuck with OEM and just added WI. I have never had an issue 15psi or under. The two times I have popped motors were at 17psi and 20psi. I am curious if my maps were scaled out past 250% if this last one might have actually survived...
Originally Posted by yomomspimp06
and document your rebuild!
I'll do my best, but I've been busy with work too. If I spend too many nights in the garage I may find my family has moved away
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Yeah, there is just so much room for error and no real engineering that I have seen in terms of milling and using aftermarket seals of unknown makeup. My buddy is at 25k on his Goopy seals but personally I would never them. If you talk to the successful race rotary engine builders (I mean Engman, Drummond, etc) they will tell you OEM or Ianetti ($1800.00) and that is it.
As you mentioned earlier there are lots of opinions and also different use cases. The builders you reference using OEM seals, are these on high boost motors, over 15psi? I'm not saying I am convinced in any direction, but I am going to give the E&J a shot. FWIW Fazda is running the Goopy seals and says he is still very happy with them.
While I've got the motor out I'm taking the opportunity to make some little tweaks. For instance moving my turbo oil feed to the oil sensor position so it is filtered and moving the sensor to the oil sandwich plate.
EDIT: Don't be misled by me This is not a filtered oil feed. See below.
Last edited by slash128; 06-24-2016 at 07:07 PM.
Reason: Correction
While I've got the motor out I'm taking the opportunity to make some little tweaks. For instance moving my turbo oil feed to the oil sensor position so it is filtered and moving the sensor to the oil sandwich plate.
Damn ...never realised that position was filtered oil!
Damn ...never realised that position was filtered oil!
Uh, is it not??? I was going off the other threads discussing it. Maybe I'll reconsider
So yeah, I just checked and that hole goes to the outer portion of the filter. I believe filtered oil comes back through the center so that would mean the oil sensor location is NOT filtered lol...
Those two little pipes are what the jet air hose feeds. They call them the anti-wet ports. Supposed to help with keeping fuel pooling in the ports at idle, IIRC. I blocked with a cap on the outside previously but caps fail, especially by the exhaust, so anytime I had an idle anomaly I was always checking that cap, which is a bit of a pain. So I made it permanent from the inside. Added some drops of super glue from the outside to seal any tiny remaining gaps.
It's the "anti-wet" port and it's to help maximize fuel atomization, I don't think it's to prevent pooling, it's to make sure all the fuel is getting blown into the combustion chamber to ensure that the AFR is correct. Might want to rethink ditching those.
It's the "anti-wet" port and it's to help maximize fuel atomization, I don't think it's to prevent pooling, it's to make sure all the fuel is getting blown into the combustion chamber to ensure that the AFR is correct. Might want to rethink ditching those.
If fuel isn't getting into the combustion chamber I'd imagine it's "pooling" somewhere I think I have a Mazda reference somewhere. Anyway, I've had it plugged since going turbo in 2013 and it's not been an issue. I just made it permanent.
It's not pooling, it's that the gasoline clings to the walls of the intake ports. But I am sure it is one of those things that is just a minor improvement in the efficiency of the engine.
3.3.Jet Air/Fuel Mixing System
Improvement of the fuel flow rate and the exhaust gas emission at idling requires stable transportation of small amounts of injected fuel to spark plugs. We designed a jet air/fuel mixing system in a way that jet air was sprayed from a pipe (port air bleed) to the bottom face of the primary intake port (anti-wet port), which created an upward and accelerated air flow. The high velocity air stream prevents fuel from wetting the intake port wall and facilitates vaporization and mixing of the air and fuel. (See Fig.18)
Ah gotcha. Yeah I've had mine blocked since going turbo and my idle is rock solid. I like to eliminate any points of failure possible so I opted to avoid hoses and check valves, caps, etc.
06-24-2016, 03:37 PM
This is not a filtered oil feed. See below. 
