When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Picked up a running donor from a wrecked car for pretty low cost. I'll take the best bits from both to build the new motor. Will be getting the rotors machined for E&J rx7 apex seals and also will be using E&J solid corner seals. Will be adding WI as well. This thing should be as bullet proof as possible for a Renesis
See what happens when I get banned. I blame the tuner.
I blame myself as well. I had actually thought to myself (prior to losing the motor) that I should have extended my maps beyond 250% since I knew I was bumping up close. But 254% load on a stock motor, tell me who else is pushin' that. I like to experiment and sometimes it comes with a price. But I pay to play
E&J huh...... Yeah man, when you push it you have to accept the consequences. I like that you're not a bitch and enjoy the process. It's refreshing and in short supply here in for sure. But you and some others have plans in the works that are promising.
Took the kids for a ride today. Dropped off to wire EDM the apex slots. 1 rx7 rotor sample, 1 dented Renesis rotor for test cut and 2 good Renesis rotors for the final build.
Has anyone ever called in on a reman tag? I've heard you can get information like when it was sold. The used motor I picked up had a reman tag and was curious about its age. It came out of a t-boned car but the inside looks pretty fresh. Hardly any carbon and what was there came off quite easily. The housings and irons look great as well.
Has anyone ever called in on a reman tag? I've heard you can get information like when it was sold. The used motor I picked up had a reman tag and was curious about its age. It came out of a t-boned car but the inside looks pretty fresh. Hardly any carbon and what was there came off quite easily. The housings and irons look great as well.
I don't think they have that info at the dealer or Mazda NA. The reman plant probably does but I doubt they will release the details.
I've read mixed results but for me the goal is surviving what would otherwise be catastrophic detonation on OEM apex and corner seals, not so much expecting 100K miles out of it. I haven't even hit 100K miles in the 10 years I've owned the car since buying it new, but I've blown two motors now
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I don't think they have that info at the dealer or Mazda NA. The reman plant probably does but I doubt they will release the details.
I just feel like with good tuning(you can do it!!), I would rather pay for new corners and seals than add plates to the cost of a rebuild as well. I are cheap
I just feel like with good tuning(you can do it!!), I would rather pay for new corners and seals than add plates to the cost of a rebuild as well. I are cheap
The E&J apex and corner seals are not made of steel so they are supposedly not nearly as hard on the irons as steel solids. Also they weigh less than other solids made of steel.
The only issues I've heard of with solid coners are when the ones with recesses are used (like the ones Aitkens sells) It makes sense really as you need all the surface area you can get when they run over the exhaust ports.
Not a problem. Any tips for me. Lol im a carpenter not a machanic so anything helps. So far ive taken the engine out myself and labled things as best i could and took note haha.
There are some rotary rebuild videos that are a great start. I believe Mazdatrix and Atkins both have one. The factory engine manual is good to have too. I would recommend you find a local rotary guy or gal to help you out. There are a lot of nuances to these things I'll be posting as I go so hopefully that might help you as well.
06-20-2016, 11:16 PM
