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hahahahaha, i fixed more things today alone that you will all week.
it's amusing for you to still argue that me or anyone else posting their work on an experiment as an opinion. it's not an opinion. its a test. you can have an opinion that the test is dumb, or won't work, but the truth is, the moment the test shows that it can be made to work, everyone wants to know how to do it themselves.
some of the most experienced hands-on rotary engine professionals considered the idea and based on 30+ years of building, experimenting, and pioneering they don't think it will work
where is your source for this statement or are you just speaking on all their behalf?
If you're not testing your guessing. This is a test. This is only a test.
Last edited by lastphaseofthis; 03-09-2015 at 10:54 PM.
A strong unported NA Renesis 6-port is about 150 RWkW (200 hp) @ 7500 and the power isn't falling off after that either.
400 hp NA from there might as well be Mount Everest on a bad winter season without any equipment ..
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I got to 120kw on a hub dyno on my stock car a while back. Most dynos I have seen have been around that figure on a stock engine. After a retune I managed to get to 135kw.
I have not seen any NA renesis producing 150kw as yet.
The last one is from a Pro Formula Mazda Renesis dyno pull, which it has a mini clutch and possibly a few percent less drivetrain loss than an RX8. So not a direct comparison per se, but achievable on a race RX8 with mini clutch. It also uses this header, which nobody around here wants to pull their head out of the long-tube sand to grasp the concept behind
Team, do you have anymore pictures of that header that you can post? What length is the front rotor tube compared to the other two tubes? I am curious about the pulse interactions in the collector.
I think this is the source you used. http://starracecars.com/index.php?op...product_id=481
Last edited by WaitingforFI; 03-10-2015 at 11:56 AM.
Interesting figures. Mazda quoted 177kw flywheel power and we typically see a loss of around 50kw due to drive train losses so theoretically we should get around 127kw at the wheels.
Most dyno figures that I have seen so far confirms the theory.
The front rotor primary tube goes back towards the rear rotor and then bends around into the 3-way collector next to the rear rotor pipe. An oval muffler connects to the discharge end and then there's a tailpipe that attaches to the muffler discharge.
The norm is most people have weak engines and a weaker understanding. A well built NA Renesis should produce approx 265 - 270 bhp (flywheel, as per other posted engine dyno graphs), maybe another 5 or so peak hp ported. Other factors that can drag that down are engine condition, exhaust system flow capability, peripheral drag, etc. So now you want to seriously mod an engine, remove emissions, etc. and then compare it to a weak factory setup? Well I'm not too surprised. According to Adaptronic the Shaw dyno only reads about 10% low. If you go back to the status of that engine, it was going south past 7500 on the dyno. At the moment nothing indicates it does anything special to me. All I see are generalities being tossed around
I never saw anything out of the Mohan 5-port turbo engine that showed it had anything unique to offer above a 13B, and now it's been abandoned for a V8 engine. Blocking off the side ports and having a true peri exhaust is the only thing that makes sense, but they can't just be blocked off at the flange and effectively welding the casting is still questionable to many people familiar with the process/engine. It will be interesting to see if this one works out.
Interesting indeed. I don't mind being the geanue... guinne? guinae? WHATEVER kind of pig with which one tests **** lol. My build's break in test will be hours of dyno tuning and a trip from Jacksonville Florida to Austin Texas, so if it fails, that's most likely when it'll do it. I'm not too keen on walking that far and absolutely loathe the idea of tow trucks and their **** drivers, so if I had even the slightest inkling that the engine would fail, I wouldn't be doing this. I'm 99.9% certain that IF the engine fails, it will have nothing to do with the exhaust port delete... Oh and not 100% because only a Sith deals in absolutes lol.
If you get it to work then then the traditional header design theory is going to be very important as compared to being essentially pointless on the Renesis side port.
There are proven long tube and short tube designs readily available for non MSP 13B's, and each length has its pros and cons. But, due to limited space, and because I have a hell of a good fabricator, I'll be going with a custom equal length long tube. Actually, the entire exhaust system will be bespoke because most aftermarket single exit exhausts are either garbage or weigh a ton, not to mention they have multiple damn near 90* bends which does nothing but ensure the outlet is centered in the bumper's exhaust shroud. Aesthetically pleasing though it may be, it doesn't help performance.
i have built a Renesis hybrid 13B and it runs a 51mm IDA
Whats up everyone,
Just having a read through the thread and I though I would post some pics of the hybrid engine that I built using 13B 6 port housings from a HB cosmo engine.
The buidl came about as I have a lot of engines in bits and then add mates + beer + a bit of skill and the RENE-B was bourne.
No porting was done to either inlet or exhaust ports, i used a old school front cover so i could run a dizzy and use breast plate to mount it.
This required sump modifications, I had to reverse the sump also to get clearance and add about 20mm of length to accommodate the old school front cover.
i used series 4 N/A rotors, second hand side seals and springs, brand new RA classic 2mm apex seals and springs, second hand oil control rings with new viton o-rings.
All second hand seals used were measured up and were within mazdas usability guidines.
for the exhaust manifold i used an RX-8 standard exhaust manifold and cut out the sections inbetween the ports, then I cut a oldschool 13B one i had lying around and welded them together.
Then i cut holes in the RX-8 manifold to suit peripheral exhaust ports and added tube which enters into the exhaust manifold and curves around to flow it in the rearward direction.
Intake manifold i made up an adapter to allow a 51mm Weber IDA on a older 6 port manifold be bolted up.
there were a few areas that required a bit of engineering and skill to get it right, oil pump drive and dizzy drive where one such area so could get the correct end float when front hub was torqued down.
Also counter weights ect as the 6 port have the auxiliary actuators and this means they have a protruding casting right where the front counter weight runs.
RX8 front counter weights have a large beveled edge to allow clearance of casting.
And I used a FC water pump housing and water pump and gilmer drives, the peripheral exhaust port gives it a fair bit of overlap so it has a nice brap to it.
Might go injection but ill see, might just build another one and bridgeport it and tidy all the other ports up.
It runs all 6 intake ports open all the time and the 5 exhaust ports making it an 11 port motor hahaha
No sorry no dyno pulls yet,
i drive this everyday to work and back and is not problem.
This engine is about to be removed from RAT040 and ill change over the front cover, sump, and put injection back on as my RX8 has just dropped compression on the rear housing.
So my RX8 will get this motor and ill build a new one for RAT040.
This time i think ill J port the Renesis plates and again leave all ports open on intake and exhaust but will run injection with ECU and might even put a Nos kit on it that I have lying around!!!
I have videoes ect but probably easier to jump over to my facebook page to check out other rotary projects and cars i work on!!!
You drive without a crash bar? Good luck with that!
Sounds like you need luck mate if you think that having a crash bar is so important.
You do know that they are designed to absorb the impact of low speed collisions and are mainly to reduce the the damage to your car.
Given that a low speed collision isnt really going to damage much except maybe the front bumper lights ect and if i am to have a high speed collision i dont think a crash bar will help much.
Cheers for your the good luck wishes !!!
It must be hard worrying about low speed impacts all the time, even driving to the shops must freak you out
awesome dude, add some peri port to the housings.. and then you'll have a 13port 13b..... but if you run p port, that header would hold you back pretty bad on the top end, and you would need to re do it, separating the side from the peri exhaust... the cosmo Hc housing have coolant jackets that match the rene design like the old 84-85 13b.. didn't know that!
thanks for sharing even though you knew these dicks would be themselves. crash bar smash bar. dyno shmyno.
Sounds like you need luck mate if you think that having a crash bar is so important.
You do know that they are designed to absorb the impact of low speed collisions and are mainly to reduce the the damage to your car.
Given that a low speed collision isnt really going to damage much except maybe the front bumper lights ect and if i am to have a high speed collision i dont think a crash bar will help much.
Cheers for your the good luck wishes !!!
It must be hard worrying about low speed impacts all the time, even driving to the shops must freak you out
I don't care about why you don't have one in the slightest, I just said good luck.
Hey, I've been part of this thread too....
03-09-2015, 08:44 PM
