yes

 

supposed to, no.

does it work better that way, yes.

 

Oh nvm, my bad, was thinking your Jet Air connection was on the charge pipe.....

but on a more serious note is that a ***** pump in the second picture?!?

 

 

bwahahaha... lol looks like it doesnt it? that is the fishtank vacuum hose. Notice the Fluval fishtank filter pump box next to it. In fact the whole thing behind the tool box is a fish tank just not set up atm

 

my jet air is on the charge pipe which leaves the jet air nipple that was originally on the intake pipe capped thus I was curious if I could just plumb the recirc there. but I will need a bigger nipple then the jetair nipple.

sourcing a 1in aluminum tube is harder than I thought it was going to be

 

Paul in Sarasota could prolly help you out, he got his done locally for less than 50 bucks.

 

I have a welder, just need the tubing for the nipple

I have pauls number, I will shoot him a text. I will be calling some local shops here too just to check if anyone sells 1" aluminum tubing by the inch or foot.

 

I would like to touch this thought one more time. If someone were to run an external wastegate and you left the internal in place but never hooked up vacuum, would the internal fail open? How can it fail open if the actuator arm is holding it tightly closed? Am I missing somehting in my thought pattern here?

 

the internal wastegate will always leak exhaust flow through it a bit. it's just the nature of the design. now if your actuator is weak enough, the exhaust pressure can force the internal wastegate open itself. though it may not be something you will easily notice.

 

for anyone in FL that has heard of S&R performance.... two thumbs up for those guys. I stopped in there to inquire about a 1in aluminum tube for the recirc and they were super helpfull. not only did he give me a 3in section of tubing for free he also put a nice beed on it to keep the hose from ever blowing off

 

What BOV are you Running Zoom? I have had no issues with my SSQV VTA. It only back fires under a very certain situation and I actually have to try and make it backfire to do it at all.

 

I have an HKS as well, but brand of BOV doesnt make a difference here, the fact that our cars are MAF based is why you should be recirculating your BOV. I am sure that you will find reports of those that claim to run just fine by venting to atmosphere but it shouldnt be done with a MAF based car.

 

tap for fix#2

 

Red RTV?

 

yeah its the copper high temp rtv

 

this is prob a dumb question, i have the latest greddy kit(2010) do i need to do fix number 2??

 

yes you need to do this. The greddy kit was never fixed to resolve this issue. What you are doing here is getting a good boost reading for your wastegate actuator, wheather you are running it up through a boost controller or not.

 

ok cool, so i would assume that the wastegate will connect to the tap. i was going to add my boost gauge reading to my vfad. please correct me if i'm wrong.

 

sorry about that, when I said boost gauge I meant controller. i will go edit that post

to answer your question though, you can hook the actuator to the tap if you are not using a boost controller, if you are going to use a boost controller then you run from the tap to the boost controller then from the BC back to the wastegate.

I hope that clears everything up for you

 

ok cool, cause if i was going to tap that part i would have made a connection to the hose for a boost controller.

 

not sure about 1", though it is readily available online if you search, but for future reference I have bought 1/2" and 3/4" OD aluminum tube at Home Depot/Lowe's in the past. In the hardware area there is a metals section with all kinds of odds and ends; angle, square and round tubing, bar/flat stock, etc.

 

moving along... got the recirc bung welded on last night...



now the pipes are off to get powder coated.

 

Are you using the Greddy MAF housing and stuff?

 

no I am using a ms intake maf housing