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RWD+LSD=Zoom gets THE BOOST

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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:01 PM
  #51  
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With my WG arm tightened about 3 or 4 full spins and actuator signal coming from my jet air line I hit 7psi till around 7000rpm then drop off to 5psi till redline (of coarse all in the manifold). I wish I had tightened it a little more before I started my MM tunes so potentially hit a higher peak boost but I think I am going to scoop up that GT3071R upgrade from blackened wings and install it next winter anyway. So no need to up my boost with this turbo... just enjoy the power as it is now!!
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 01:12 AM
  #52  
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom

After reading your thread I began to get a little concerned with how tight my actuator feels.
not sure what you mean by that ....

Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom

***edit: from what I hear, it is good to have a nice tight/snug actuator
or that .

agree in general that a tight fit is a good thing though
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 08:24 AM
  #53  
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Didn't you look at the preload I put on Pauls WG?

The quick way I use, is zero play, and the actuator bracket bolts are used to tighten it down.

IE, you set it up with zero play and some tension on the rod, then the last two spins of the braket bolts provide the tension.
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 11:00 AM
  #54  
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Yeah thats what I remember you saying. Thats also why I said that I had heard it was a good thing to be nice and tight

on another note. walked out of the gym last night and turned the car on only to find that I lost power steering. Not really surprising with this car so I stopped off at advanced and got some contact cleaner. Six bucks and 20 minutes later I had power steering back. Only crappy part was that I had just finished a tri workout and it was murder driving that thing home with no power steering. /rant
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by Kane
IE, you set it up with zero play and some tension on the rod, then the last two spins of the braket bolts provide the tension.
Works if you have an actuator man enough to handle the job .
With the Greddy actuator and an upgraded compressor -do it that way and you may as well have saved your 1k (on an upgrade) cause you aren't going to make any extra boost .
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 01:11 PM
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
With my WG arm tightened about 3 or 4 full spins and actuator signal coming from my jet air line I hit 7psi till around 7000rpm then drop off to 5psi till redline (of coarse all in the manifold). I wish I had tightened it a little more before I started my MM tunes so potentially hit a higher peak boost but I think I am going to scoop up that GT3071R upgrade from blackened wings and install it next winter anyway. So no need to up my boost with this turbo... just enjoy the power as it is now!!
That is probably the sensible limit for a stock greddy at the high end but you have plenty of headroom lower down . A BoostController could give you 10psi to 6000rpm which will completely change the character of the car
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 02:31 PM
  #57  
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Ya I figure if BlackenedWings sells that MM upgrade before I get a chance to purchase it I will most likely buy the Profec B-II instead. I'll have to do a bunch of reading about it before I do so though; so I can figure out all the install/operating instructions and proper settings. That and some Koni Yellows for the same price haha
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 02:59 PM
  #58  
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profec is a great tool from what I hear.
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 03:15 PM
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
profec is a great tool from what I hear.
It's pretty good . But BCs in general are dangerous toys to play with . You need big cajoules and a deep pockets (for engines gearboxes clutches and tyres)
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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they only become dangerous when you push the potential beyond what is safe. of course we are all going to have different ideas of "safe" but I think you all know what I mean.
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 03:24 PM
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
they only become dangerous when you push the potential beyond what is safe. of course we are all going to have different ideas of "safe" but I think you all know what I mean.

The worst part about them is that you only have to turn a **** to get more power - good luck controlling the urge to do that .... heh

It's kinda like having a nice big pair of boobies in front of you
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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lol self control my friend, self control.
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 04:54 PM
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Good Luck with the boost man!

for BC, always, always....... have warning peak and drop feature set if there is one. lol

I'm 0 for 2 in that regard.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 04:46 AM
  #64  
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The profec is easy to read and adjust once you play with it. I had mine installed for months before I adjusted it. Finally I got bored with 5psi so I played with one setting at a time to see what changed. Finally figured it out and now am hitting about 8-9 psi to 7500.

Last edited by Cattywampus; Apr 12, 2011 at 06:05 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 12:27 PM
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^^beauty..... I think as far as this turbo goes 9psi is about as high of a peak you would want.... at least thats what I want
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 09:14 AM
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Here are some updates of the manifold.

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It was dye tested to make sure there were no leaks. I still plan to block off the external but I wanted to keep the port in the event that I go with a bigger turbo and if I do then I will have the option of running an external wastegate.

things are coming along fellas. Powdercoat has arrived and pipes will be coated soon.

As for recirc, I have a 1" recirc fitting on the hks ssq. My question here is, would there be any down sides if I just run a 1" hose and reduce it down to the size of the jet air fitting that is already on the greddy turbo intake tube, or should I have a 1" bung welded on?

Last edited by Chris; Apr 12, 2011 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #67  
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12 psi on the 3071r is where it's fun.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 09:34 AM
  #68  
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hey Jason, how are things man?!?

I will let ya know when the intall will take place and hopefully you can swing in to say hello.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 11:50 AM
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1 inch hose down to a 3/8 inch hose? I don't think that's a good idea.

better to actually have a bung welded for the recirculation fitting. you want the pressure released as quick as possible.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:01 PM
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I thought about that. Is it really enough airflow to warrent that issue?

I have no problem getting the weld done but if its not really neccessary then I wont be doing it.

based on what everyone else does I have already scheduled in to get this welded, but if I dont need to then I will pull out
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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hey -- I got a new house, new bike. Things are good. We should meet up.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:56 PM
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yessir... nicely done. Where are you living now?
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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That small of a port will cause compressor stall I think, I don't have anything definitive other than the fact that every BOV, Diverted Valve I have ever touched for any car is 1" in diameter or more.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 04:06 PM
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im heading over to my buddys shop tonight to see if I can get fix #2 and the recirc fitting all welded. I want to try and get this done brfore the weekend so I can go ahead and powder coat :D
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:25 PM
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Arent u supposed to recirc it to pre turbo anyway?
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