Talic

yay!!!
oil system done i had to reinvent the wheel for my problem

synapse/recirc done with all vacuum lines

tomorrow start completing the exhaust

clutch will have to wait till i come back from afghanistan.

anyone have tips for the aem tru boost?
the best place for the guage vacuum/boost readings?

i think the waste gate needs a boost signal should it be right at the turbo housing or after the bov? or right on the uim?

Mawnee

You can get boost reference for the guage/boost controller from the nipple on the underside of the upper manifold(right behind the throttle body). I used that for the blow off valve as well.

For the wastegate you want a source pre throttle body. I tapped the pipe right after the turbo, some tap the turbo housing itself.

Talic

that was my idea because i have a steel section for the bov/recirculation
so i can easily remove it and weld a nipple

secondly the wastegate only has the one nipple on the top
but the diagram for the controller says i should also connect to the side
should i buy a nipple to fit the side port on the wastegate or is the top sufficent?

can i also use the nipple i am going to weld for the boost port on the synapse?
should the nipple before the bov/recirc or after? for this signal (or with wastegate?)

i have 8lbs 12lbs and i think 14lbs springs
i would assume run the 8lbs spring the rest (of boost) controlled by the controller?

Mawnee

I am unsure ont he wastegate ports. I went with a synchronic wastegate which is.....special when it comes to hooking it up(it has like 7 different ports!)

Your boost controller guage and BOV should both get a signal after the throttle body.

The Wastegate and the boost controller solenoid(which goes inline to the wastegate) both need a signal before the throttle body. It should be ok to have it near they BOV, but most get a signal as close to the turbo as possible.

I would definetly go with your lowest spring at least to start. If your boost controller is set improperly or fails, or if your boost reference line comes off somehow you can potentially end up with twice the boost of the base spring. So with an 8psi spring you are looking at a failure causing you to get 16psi! A failure with the 12lb or 14lb springs would could potentially see 24psi or 28psi which would be catostophic almost instantly. Better to start lower until you are familiar with your boost controller and confident in your reference line routing

Talic

good in my case the bov is like 6 inches away from the turbo
and is easy to remove weld and tap a hole

as for the bov and guage its from the throttle after the tb the first lower port on the uim (the one for the vfad)

i had a unsuccessful attempt at completing the exhuast
it took me 35 minuts to weld up the manifold
it also took me 2 hours to make from the manifold to the diff with two silencers all bungs and all pipes bing 70m (3 inch for the imperials)
however from the diff to the turbo i worked on it for 5 hours and hve no result
each bend or each cut or each test fit was unsatifactory for me lol
im having the difficulty because our hoist is down so im doing it on the floor.
at night with only flood lamps.

so yeah not fun lol
i mgiht give up and take it to an exhaust shop to get the computer bends rather then my manual bends.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

My preference is to run the boost controller solenoid/wastegate and boost guages as per Mawnee's post but run the line to the boostcontroller itself from just before the throttle body . This gives better control over part throttle boost .

Talic

yay i got spooling noise!!!!
turbo spools at idle and feels like ill be around full boost 4-5k
keep in mind no boost signal to synapse (however vacuum and recirce is connected)
airfuel was between 11-14.2 during my first 6000rpm
the tune i flashed is mms fi tune (for greddy's kit i suppose) so obivously my injectors are too big
no boost controller installed yet so i could only test the car using my foot as the controller
while watching airfuel and maf
no pings or struggles (cept big injectors)

tomorrow or after tomorrow the wastegate will be installed.
boost signal made for synapse/wastegate

thursday or fri/sat will be the last silencer
and hopefully wiring boost controller and airfuel guage

then tuning... i still have oem flywheel and clutch in
haven the time to change it out yet
i guess during the tuning phase (or at least trying to tune it) i will keep it oem
then when the time presents itself ill change the fly/clutch
tuning for that shouldnt be an issue since it would only drop load i would assume
perhaps some timing would need to be adjusted

bad news is when i jacked the car up so both rear wheels were fully extended and suspended
then dropped the car down i think the end links were too short and they went the wrong way
and basically broke themselves kinda hard to explain without seeing it
but basicially the swaybar made full contact with the control arms.
but the rear lift looked nice to make the rear wheelwell match the front.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Good news
Will you be tuning this yourself of MM ?

Talic

im hoping mm will still help me however im past the 6 months from purchase rule
i bought in december and well yeah. the sucky part is all the traveling ive done (will do) and having to send the cobb back for dongle repair (1 month) put me over.

-puppy dog eyes MM-

i will try to get a que but knowing my luck im going to have to pay

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Race tuner may not work for your car anyway so .......

Talic

ive got racetuner for the accessport
its alot different frommy old powermod but im sure ill do my best with alot of questions
which i will post for help on the tuners section i guess

Talic

car is running very nice on mm's fi tune for the 04s (greddy kit without injectors i belive)
i made my own temperary exhaust tip out of 3 inch GI pipe so it looks bad
its only temp untill i find a tip here that i like.

the exhaust has 1 oem glass pack after the trubo and 2 glasspacks where the cat and oem glass pack was.

sound bite to come (but no higher revving since untuned)

once i tidy things up and clean it i will post pictures

it looks like if im lucky only things that will be remaining on monday is tuning and perhaps guages (clutch and flywheel to be done after my trip to afghan)

today was 120F (46C) and perhaps since im closer to the lean side 14.4ish area i managed to have the temp needle move to over 1/2 way in 500 meters of mild boost.

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Have you measured the AIT? Since you are using a intercooler, it should be close to ambient air temp.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

you have to be f'n kidding me !!!!!!

Talic

nope not kidding
it took out my oil scavange pump (50% working)
i spewed out oil like crazy however i had a dream last night to redo the oil system
funny thing is the pump died (100% not working) this morning lol

i tried to do a data log on the way to work (with lots of smoke out the exhaust)
however just before i hit stop logging i got comms error
hopefully its still there on the cobb

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to the Middle East Brett.... I cannot imagine trying to keep an FI-ed car cool out here in the summer.

It was 126F last week here.

Talic

we have started summmer it will hit over 140 next month with 98% humitity yay!!!

heres pics of a pump i will try its a heavier diesel mercedies pump with a 1 way valve fitting and some fancy aluminum welding by me -cheer-

i also will make changes to the oiling system see attached also

in 5 hours i should have the result
going to be a pain in the A$$ to clean the glasspack of oil

Talic

yay another pump bites the dust
insted of paying $25 for a used pump
i went all out and spent $75 for the new one in the last post

well looks like my gas welding of aluminum fried it.. -cry-
good news is i redid the oil system like i said.
it looks like it will be a success as it nearly had no oil leaks for the first 5 minutes
after that the flow couldnt escape the turbo fast enough and leaked out the seals

i really need a good scavange pump but USA is so far away
and every shop here is run by a karla indian or jingglies as i call them
as they try to rattle their tiny brain while you ask any question

my favorite is show them a part and ask them if they have the same or simular the question they always ask is for what vehicle?
then you answer they will say no.
for ***** and giggles you say another car they will say no.
put on repeat they will say no.
then you ask if they have an part like this for any car they will say no.
then if you know what you have/dont have then why do you ask for what car?
specially if you know you dont have it.
my favorite is a co-worker was asking for a toggle switch they asked for what car he said its for his donkey
and the guy says i dont have... funniest day of my life... guess you had to be there

long story short im getting frusterated for the scavange if i cant find one by monday ill have to cough up and get one from here http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm with 90sec timer

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

at least you have humidity. loose that and you will not be able to keep it running with the temps out there in summer

Talic

okay ordered the scavange pump should be here in 2 weeks probibly after my afghan visit
good news is i got another one of the pumps mentioned above exhcnaged for free
this time i didnt weld it i just got a 1/2 hose and a reducer from 1/2 to 3/8s
bad news is i still leak out oil from turbine after 5000 rpm
which means i need a bypass still and possibly remove that 1 way valve to make the pump flow more so i need to combine old oil system with new and if im lucky should be solved tomorrow
bad news 2 is i sent in my tune to MM and unfortunatly i did the driving log then the idle log
and on the idle log the recirclation line popped off so its incorrect reading
i will resubmit tomorrow and hope MM isnt too angry

Talic

okay i didnt do the bypass yet but removed the 1 way valve, no changes at all.
i will try the bypass tomorrow however if it doesnt cure it then i basically give up until the scavange pump gets here
if it still leaks oil then turbo is going to be put through hell without a drop of oil untill it dies then is coming out and will be replaced.

Mawnee

Couldnt you just setup a small self contained system?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Great idea. The oil would be in better shape as well for a longer period of time.

Talic

i origionally had a container and intercooler for the turbo bt no space after the intake and exhaust and the large gt35 under the rear.
i will do the bypass tomorrow if the results are good ill be happy, still waiting for th scavange pump to be completed and sent out to me

Talic

yay oil leak has stopped
i drove for 2 hours without a single puff of smoke.

i had to put 3x 1.5mm reducers in the line to the turbo and bypass it like i had drawn.
sofar so good.

now to tidy up the wiring/hoses and get the guages in

sounds nice but obviously icant push the car since no monitoring guages only driving around uder 6k with no to little boost since i can only monitor afr on the cobb.
its always under 14.4 and in boost its like 12-13ish
the afrs kinda bounce around but everthng is very smooth, no pings or anything.
however at 40C the engine was around 208F and intake temp was like 120 if i recall

so doesnt seem like running too hot

now for the tuning. i hope to have full boost 4-5kish area if its higher then that on the next turbo ill go smaller ar like .50 or sumting.

the synapse sounds nice but in recirc and at the rear cant hear it too well in the car but from outside it sounds nice.

sound clips to come soon (obiously not pushing the car and no more then 6k)