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I have been wanting more out of it. I'm taking it slow though. I'm currently in the market for a Cobb or somthing of the sort (open to recommendations). I have most upgrade besides some cooling upgrades which is proly next on the list of things. Working toward SC. I feel Turbo just adds to the already high heat in the engine bay.
I would look into MazdaEdit, you wont even know its there once everything is set up. No need to add anything to the car just have to reflash the ECU.
Originally Posted by OtherSyde
Wow, that Blitz setup is really something! I love to see different SC setups, but most have died off at this point (Blitz, Knight Sport, Hymee, and really even Pettit by now). Very neat and exotic, I love it! I wish someone in the US would simply scan this into some CNC machinery software and replicate the major pieces, it seems like a great little setup!
So I've had some belt issues lately, snapping my third belt today (the first one snapped back in December and a piece of the goddamn thing got wrapped around my eccentric shaft behind the main pulley and sliced open my front main seal causing oil to constantly squirt out of the front of the engine and coat everything with oil from the pulleys slinging it everywhere), so that was an expensive bitch and a half to get fixed - I got it repaired by by the resident Rotary Expert at Aero Automotive here in SoCal though, who I have to say did a great job at least). Finally figured out that it's because my tensioner pulley bracket was bent - likely from the previous owner having to torque down the tensioner to prevent belt slippage because they only had the stock Pettit pulley and not the wider 6-rib setup like I do now, which was causing the belt to constantly slide towards the forward edge of the pulley and rub against the pulley edge "wall", which was evidenced by the front-facing side of the belt always being frayed/mangled and stretched when they would fail. So, I got a long crowbar and wrapped it in cloth so as not to scratch anything, then leveraged it against the front/side of the compressor with the tip behind the back of the pulley-bracket, and managed to carefully bend it forward a few millimetres, and now the belt (I have multiple belts in my garage now because I ordered several on Amazon haha) is just about centered on the pulley and no longer forward or touching the edge of the pulley - you can see from the new contact patch/stripe on the pulley in the picture after a test drive. Sorry for the engine bay being so damned filthy right now - but fingers crossed, no more snapped belts!
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In other developments, I've been wondering for awhile why they ran the coolant loop return hose directly over the super-hot engine block and right between the super-hot alternator and compressor. I saw a picture online of a Pettit setup with the hose routed in a longer loop around the back and side of the engine bay, avoiding all the super hot stuff in the center altogether - and incidentally I had a bunch of hose left over from my install, so I mimicked that setup hoping to take a few extra degrees of heat out of the coolant loop. Also, unrelated, I painted my brake booster reservoir black with a yellow cap to match my windshield wiper fluid reservoir just to have a sense of symmetry.
Hopefully that is the end of your belt issues. I also have the RRP pulley set one of the first ones out im sure. Anyway there was alignment issues in the beginning. I believe it had to do with the tensioner pulley. Its been a while since we got it fixed though and I havent had any issues since then. Im only running the low boost pulley still. Eventually I will step it up though. I think taking the hose around the long way helps some if anything just to add some more capacity. My intercooler usually has an external temp of around 130 degrees. I think this heats the water the most. Ive been working on getting my intake temps low lately.
RX8inSTL, are you in Missouri? I thought STL meant "Seattle" lol, does it mean St. Louis? Just asking since I'm from Missouri originally too although the Navy has (over the last 15 years) had me in Seattle, Hawaii, and now San Diego
RX8inSTL, are you in Missouri? I thought STL meant "Seattle" lol, does it mean St. Louis? Just asking since I'm from Missouri originally too although the Navy has (over the last 15 years) had me in Seattle, Hawaii, and now San Diego
I live about 20 mins south of St Louis, maybe one day there will be two SCed RX8s here.
Nice.. i have the same system on my rx8 with the blitz control box..so far no issues. i knw heating is a issue with this system.. what do you think of putting a front mount intercooler somehow.... will it add a lag ?
Dilshan - So you're running a supercharger with no intercooler? The setup I have is instant boost and has no intercooler. I'm not sure about the lag adding all of the IC pipes but jcbrx8 suggested that I add some kind of charge cooling for my system, thank you jcbrx8!, so I added water-meth for now, post4918614. Might add an intercooler but the WMI is working well so far.
Dilshan - So you're running a supercharger with no intercooler? The setup I have is instant boost and has no intercooler. I'm not sure about the lag adding all of the IC pipes but jcbrx8 suggested that I add some kind of charge cooling for my system, thank you jcbrx8!, so I added water-meth for now, post4918614. Might add an intercooler but the WMI is working well so far.
i think you should start a new thread for Blitz superchager..it will be good as there's no lot information about it.. let me know once you start..so we all can share our information..
Yes im still using a supercharger with factory setup.. but i managed to put a off /on switch to the blitz electronic Box simply cutting the positive wires.. so system can be turn off with the switch and clutch wont engage.. i saw you have put a pressure tank to keep the bypass system open? But in my case i haven't done anything to bypass valve and when the system off car run like a normal N/A rx8.. i don't feel any power loss or any kind of hesitation up to full rev range.actually it runs better than a N/A rx8 even without the superchager.i can see the supercharger is wind milling when the car is at idle also.. but no power loss or lag.
i see some People has done a air to water intercooler system for this.. but I'm thinking to put a normal air to air intercooler some how as it is very simple and reliable system..
let me know if you are starting a new thread for blitz supercharger..
Last edited by Dilshan Liyanage; 06-06-2020 at 01:17 AM.
well frankly none of that has to do with a Pettit SC kit that is the longstanding subject of this forever thread, but I guess nobody gives a flip about much on here any more except if you make a fs ad without listing a price then heads asplode.
frankly you should go start your own “xyz-whatever sc” thread rather then carrying on in this one, somebody could even help you out by carving the off topic posts out of here and doing that ... fat chance I’m sure ...
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TeamRX8 has spoken the truth and so, working with dannobre, our "Awesome" Modulated Moderator, all of the post about my Blitz SC have been moved to a new thread call Gearsofts SC Thread. I promise I won't do this again.
Thanks again dannobre for the all of the hard work you do keeping this site in order! and thanks TeamRX8 for giving a flip so this could happen!
See you guys on my new thread! (and I'm coming back, to this thread, to comment on these great looking Pettit SC kits!)
Gearsoft
...and so, working with dannobre, our "Awesome" Modulated Moderator, all of the post about my Blitz SC have been moved to a new thread call Gearsofts SC Thread.
Gearsoft
OMG I was so confused for a minute, I looked in the new thread and saw my post about snapping belts and adjusting my tensioner bracket in the Blitz thread and was like, "Did I commit a faux-pas by accidentally posting about my Pettit kit in the wrong thread?!" Haha this explains it tho, I guess my reply just got kidnapped from this thread along with the rest and relocated to the new thread
Hope everyone is enjoying their supercharged RX8. Ive recently gotten my water meth kit hooked up and hope to experiment over the next month with it, hopefully I can cool things down some and get my tune straightened out more. My car feel really good just having some breakup around 8000-8500rpm. Anyone else running watermeth?
Hope everyone is enjoying their supercharged RX8. Ive recently gotten my water meth kit hooked up and hope to experiment over the next month with it, hopefully I can cool things down some and get my tune straightened out more. My car feel really good just having some breakup around 8000-8500rpm. Anyone else running watermeth?
I added WMI to my Blitz supercharger kit because it didn't come with an inter-cooler. I had some of the same issues at high R's and ended up just not letting the primary 2 injectors add any extra fuel. I'm running a piggyback so I have maps that will add or take away fuel for each injector set. The WM I think saturates it so much by the time you hit 8K that there's just too much fuel. Of course the best way to do it is to use your AFR gauge and tune it to the target you want to run. I was running in the 10s before I put the WMI kit on so that I could keep it from detonating. After the WMI install I started targeting 12.5 and got great pulls all the way past redline with no knocking. Hope that helps.
Here's the thread I started when I added the SC and the post where I added the WM kit in.
Hope everyone is enjoying their supercharged RX8. Ive recently gotten my water meth kit hooked up and hope to experiment over the next month with it, hopefully I can cool things down some and get my tune straightened out more. My car feel really good just having some breakup around 8000-8500rpm. Anyone else running watermeth?
I also forgot to mention that when I first installed the WMI kit I increased boost from 6psi to 8.5psi and took out any timing retard that I had in before, I had the timing retarded before I installed the WM to kept it from knocking. Then I targeted the 12.5 AFR and tuned the maps to that. After I did that is when I noticed the issue above 8k and still had too much fuel and then took out the extra fuel from the primary #2 injectors. It ran awesome after that!! I say "ran" because I have the engine out now getting a rebuild...
I added WMI to my Blitz supercharger kit because it didn't come with an inter-cooler. I had some of the same issues at high R's and ended up just not letting the primary 2 injectors add any extra fuel. I'm running a piggyback so I have maps that will add or take away fuel for each injector set. The WM I think saturates it so much by the time you hit 8K that there's just too much fuel. Of course the best way to do it is to use your AFR gauge and tune it to the target you want to run. I was running in the 10s before I put the WMI kit on so that I could keep it from detonating. After the WMI install I started targeting 12.5 and got great pulls all the way past redline with no knocking. Hope that helps.
Here's the thread I started when I added the SC and the post where I added the WM kit in.
It sounds like I might need to get things leaned out a little more still, right now under boost I'm usually at 10.1-10.2 AFR. The car is running great still right up to around 8000rpm sometimes 8500 then it cuts out. I did notice that I am losing almost 2psi of boost around 7500rpm, it just hit me that maybe it has to do with the VDI valve so I need to look into that, I know some people have kept it closed. Once I get things figured out without the W/M im going to get that going again, it is great how much it cools the intercooler and air. Im taking baby steps but once everythings dialed in ill eventually run my smaller pulley around 11PSI.
It sounds like I might need to get things leaned out a little more still, right now under boost I'm usually at 10.1-10.2 AFR. The car is running great still right up to around 8000rpm sometimes 8500 then it cuts out. I did notice that I am losing almost 2psi of boost around 7500rpm, it just hit me that maybe it has to do with the VDI valve so I need to look into that, I know some people have kept it closed. Once I get things figured out without the W/M im going to get that going again, it is great how much it cools the intercooler and air. Im taking baby steps but once everythings dialed in ill eventually run my smaller pulley around 11PSI.
RX8inSTL - I added the WM before the supercharger. Look at this post for where I installed it. -->Here<--. It cools the SC along the the air and seams it help the SC seal better and actually give more boost. At least that's how it worked with my setup.
I seem to have gotten my boost issue fixed. Unfortunately the fix was to tighten up the belt more. Im also running the RRP pulley set so I'm surprised I had to tighten it as much as I did. I would say there's probably only a 1/4" deflection when pushing on the long section of belt. Id say to or three times tighter than my normal accessory belts. Anyway I am now making 9psi initially and then leveling out to around 7 in the high RPM, now it will be back to tuning. Does everyone's boost fall off like that?
I seem to have gotten my boost issue fixed. Unfortunately the fix was to tighten up the belt more. Im also running the RRP pulley set so I'm surprised I had to tighten it as much as I did. I would say there's probably only a 1/4" deflection when pushing on the long section of belt. Id say to or three times tighter than my normal accessory belts. Anyway I am now making 9psi initially and then leveling out to around 7 in the high RPM, now it will be back to tuning. Does everyone's boost fall off like that?
I'm running a Blitz setup and it falls off at high R's too. I'm able to make 8.5psi initially and it drops to 6.5psi by 10000rpm
As for your belt tension it does need to be really tight, but I did just rebuild my engine after having the SC on it and did notice a lot of wear in the main bearings, 11 o'clock on the front bearing and 5 o'clock on the rear which matches the direction that I had the belt tensioned. Your Pettit manual only says to "install belts and set proper tension" whereas the blitz manual (translation I have from japanese) gives the deflection measurements, and it is tight!
POST EDITED AS SHOWN WITH CAPITALS
All the images I can find of the Pettit bypass valve show it fitted with the feed (high pressure) side connected to seal side of the unit, in-line with the piston. This is how my unit was fitted, currently now in a box with the rest of the SC kit awaiting a new build to fit it to, And also how a friend valve is fitted.
My valve has no spring in it and I don’t understand how the piston can close under boost when the boost is blowing the piston off it seat, and of course in off throttle conditions the piston is also pulled open by the vacuum then on boost it will be held open. SINCE POSTING THIS INITIALLY I HAVE LEARNED FROM A SC INSTALLER THAT THE BOOST IS CONNECTED TO THE UNDERSIDE OF THE PISTON AND WHEN ON BOOST THE VACUUM LINE USED TO OPEN THE VALVE BECOMES A PRESSURE LINE WHICH ALLOWS THE LIGHT SPRING TO CLOSE THE VALVE
so my questions are;
1) Should there be a spring in the valve YES
2) Should the pressure feed actually be connected to the side connection and the end connection to the none pressurised inlet connection to return the excess pressure. NO
3) Have I totally misunderstood how the by supercharger pass valve works. YES & NO!
From extensive web research I have learned that turbocharger blow off valves function differently to SC bypass valves.
Hopefully you guys in the states can help with some advice.
Last edited by ChrisHolmes2014; 10-06-2020 at 04:10 AM.
Reason: Updated information
All the images I can find of the Pettit bypass valve show it fitted with the feed (high pressure) side connected to seal side of the unit, in-line with the piston. This is how my unit was fitted, currently now in a box with the rest of the SC kit awaiting a new build to fit it to, And also how a friend valve is fitted.
My valve has no spring in it and I don’t understand how the piston can close under boost when the boost is blowing the piston off it seat, and of course in off throttle conditions the piston is also pulled open by the vacuum then on boost it will be held open.
so my questions are;
1) Should there be a spring in the valve
2) Should the pressure feed actually be connected to the side connection and the end connection to the none pressurised inlet connection to return the excess pressure.
3) Have I totally misunderstood how the by supercharger pass valve works.
From extensive web research I have learned that turbocharger blow off valves function differently to SC bypass valves.
Hopefully you guys in the states can help with some advice.
The best solution is to order this TiAL Sport BOV in whatever color you like (the 3psi one is what we need for out kits), along with two of these fittings to properly fit our SC kit. Fits well, works well. Here's mine:
FYI I still have my old aluminum Pettit BOV sitting in my garage, they're functional but not the greatest tech from ~13+ years ago.
Many thanks for the information which seems to confirm that the Pettit instructions show the by pass valve plumbed in incorrectly which suggests that everyone has them plumbed so as as to blow open under boost!
I have been following your project and am very impressed by the quality of your install.
Last edited by ChrisHolmes2014; 09-28-2020 at 09:48 AM.
I'm running a Blitz setup and it falls off at high R's too. I'm able to make 8.5psi initially and it drops to 6.5psi by 10000rpm
As for your belt tension it does need to be really tight, but I did just rebuild my engine after having the SC on it and did notice a lot of wear in the main bearings, 11 o'clock on the front bearing and 5 o'clock on the rear which matches the direction that I had the belt tensioned. Your Pettit manual only says to "install belts and set proper tension" whereas the blitz manual (translation I have from japanese) gives the deflection measurements, and it is tight!
I seem to have gotten my boost issue fixed. Unfortunately the fix was to tighten up the belt more. Im also running the RRP pulley set so I'm surprised I had to tighten it as much as I did. I would say there's probably only a 1/4" deflection when pushing on the long section of belt. Id say to or three times tighter than my normal accessory belts. Anyway I am now making 9psi initially and then leveling out to around 7 in the high RPM, now it will be back to tuning. Does everyone's boost fall off like that?
Belt slippage is the biggest PITA with the SC kits. RRP stopped making the 6 rib kits which had greatly helped. At one point, Pettit redesigned the bracket for the tensioner since everyone was cranking them down and it would bend. My bracket bent enough that it was touching another belt and I lost my AC belt while driving. Gatorback belts also help since they have rubber "teeth" to help grab but I am not sure if they are still making them because I recently had trouble ordering some. Honestly 9 to then 7psi isnt terrible. I only really noticed it when I was at 11psi and it would drop to 6-7psi at high rpm. That belt slipping noise would drive me crazy every time I heard it.
I had several conversations with Cam about it to try to find out how tight its supposed to be because I used to just keep cranking it down. It would run great for a few hundred miles and then start slipping. Cam told me you dont want it too tight. You should still be able to use two fingers to spin the belt to about 180 degrees. If you have it so tight it cannot be twisted then its not right. So real precise right ? lol
Have you checked the pulley for wear? If the belt or pulley are worn then the sides of the Vs may not be engaging fully with the sides of the grooves in the pulley. Also if the belt has been slipping it will have polished the pulley surface therefore if you abrade by sanding lightly the surface will have more grip.
I bought the last 6 rib pulley kit from RRP with 11 & 13psi pulleys which will be installed along with the overhauled supercharger early next year.
I mean no disrespect for the whole SC thing, it’s never going to work properly until a cogged belt is put on it and is just one more thing working against a SC on an engine that functions at higher rpms. The Renesis main bearings already have issues enough without cranking all that unintended load on them. Even over tightening the alternator belt can be an issue. Which doing so is also sucking up and wasting even more potential output power to drive the dang thing. If you’re going to insist on doing it, at least do it right.
I know it’s easy to say you’re doing it wrong, but a serpentine belt on this application is simply doing it wrong. Having e-shaft bearings only at the front and rear with 2-rotors oscillating about without a bearing support between them only makes it that much worse trying to get high boost at high rpm.
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04-27-2020, 10:12 PM
IMO turbos and SCs would benefit from that.
and so, working with dannobre, our "Awesome" Modulated Moderator, all of the post about my Blitz SC have been moved to a new thread call Gearsofts SC Thread. I promise I won't do this again.
By pass valve
