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Decided to go for a WM option so I picked up a Snow Performance kit! I just wrote a bunch of details and then lost the draft so I'll just post my progress as I add everything.
The bracket and pump ready and the wiring and WM line connected and tucked away. I ran the wiring and WM line out a grommet in the trunk and under the car on the fuel line rack up to the engine bay. Looks pretty clean! Ran the WM line and wires from the trunk, under the car and hung them on the fuel line rails all the way up to the engine bay. Now the fun part!
The Snow WMI kit is all installed and kicking ***!!! Bumped the boost to 8.5 peak and turned off all of the timing retard I had in the piggyback, also leaned out the injectors a ton to get the AFRs in the 12s!!
Here's a few more build pics and a short video of my testing before putting the manifold back in.
Drilled and tapped into the intake manifold. The drill press makes it so much easier to start the thread straight!
All back together. Left an extra loop to install a flow sensor as a fault-safe to add to the Arduino program.
Finished the initial tune and bumped up the boost! Set the controller to 85% and got 8.5 PSI Boost!!! (.59 hkPa X 14.5)
Now that it works I'm adding a pressure sensor on the WMI line so I can tell if I get any failures. I'll wire it to the Arduino and program it to shut off boost if I get a failure. Also found a board that can convert a 0 to 5vdc out on an extra map I have in the emanage to 0 to 12vdc so I can make the pump proportional based on boost and RPM.
Getting pretty busy on top of the piggyback. I'm starting to think about putting all of these extra controls in another project box.
Added the pressure sensor on the WMI line and programmed the Arduino to look for pressure in the line every .5 secs while the WM pump is on and to shut off the SC, bypass and WM pump if there's a pressure drop. This should cover any failure in the WMI system like electrical, pump failure or broken WM line.
Just did a little more tuning and found that I only need the emanage to add extra fuel on the primary and secondary injectors and that I didn't need to have the primary 2 injectors add any extra fuel so I took them out of the emanage maps.
Here's the second gear pull part of the run I did after taking out the primary 2 injectors from the emanage fuel map. Stays in the 12s while in boost. I turned the boost down to 7 psi while I'm still dialing it in. The blue line is boost and you can see it does tapper off as the rpm goes up.
I had some issues with proportional controls on the WM pump so it's still wide open after the SC turns on but I did add a 1 second delay for it to come on after the boost and I also leave the SC clutch engaged for 3 seconds after I let off the throttle so it doesn't have to turn off and on between gear shift.
Using a lot of "Boost Juice" while in boost so if I don't get the proportional working I may need to get a bigger tank.
Dilshan, post4915589 explains this and shows the auxiliary output map I'm using. The map is based on throttle position and rpm. I'm running this auxiliary on/off signal to an input on an Arduino Nano that does the actual control of the clutch by outputting to a relay and so the arduino can disable the SC clutch if it see an issue with the WM injection pressure or if I just have it turned off with a toggle I have in the car.
Nice.. i have the same system on my rx8 with the blitz control box..so far no issues. i knw heating is a issue with this system.. what do you think of putting a front mount intercooler somehow.... will it add a lag ?
i think you should start a new thread for Blitz superchager..it will be good as there's no lot information about it.. let me know once you start..so we all can share our information..
Yes im still using a supercharger with factory setup.. but i managed to put a off /on switch to the blitz electronic Box simply cutting the positive wires.. so system can be turn off with the switch and clutch wont engage.. i saw you have put a pressure tank to keep the bypass system open? But in my case i haven't done anything to bypass valve and when the system off car run like a normal N/A rx8.. i don't feel any power loss or any kind of hesitation up to full rev range.actually it runs better than a N/A rx8 even without the superchager.i can see the supercharger is wind milling when the car is at idle also.. but no power loss or lag.
i see some People has done a air to water intercooler system for this.. but I'm thinking to put a normal air to air intercooler some how as it is very simple and reliable system..
let me know if you are starting a new thread for blitz supercharger..
hope you find your way to this new thread... maybe we can get some traction on this thread and see some other SC kits and customization to them!
I put in an air tank and use a solenoid to open the bypass valve while the SC clutch is off. It seams like I don't have as much power in NA with it closed and I like the idea of not free wheeling the compressor if it doesn't have to. I have a pressure sensor in the air tank too that the Nano monitors if the tank is low on air because I have it programmed so that if I'm out of meth or just have the SC turned off the SC clutch still engages at 30% throttle to turn on the compressor but the bypass stays open so I don't get any boost but still get all of the air I need to not bog down the motor in NA mode. It sounds like your setup runs normal without this, maybe I have some issues with mine like an intake leak or maybe my motor is just tired... anyway I'm doing another rebuild in September so we'll see how it looks inside from running boost and also from the WMI keeping the inside of the motor clean.
If you look at post #17 I found a picture on someone who modified the kit to take an air to water intercooler but TeamRX8 pointed out that it may not do a great job because of the size of it, so probably a normal air to air intercooler would be the best. How are you planning to route it from the Blitz setup? If you have any pictures of your setup please post them.
hope you find your way to this new thread... maybe we can get some traction on this thread and see some other SC kits and customization to them!
I put in an air tank and use a solenoid to open the bypass valve while the SC clutch is off. It seams like I don't have as much power in NA with it closed and I like the idea of not free wheeling the compressor if it doesn't have to. I have a pressure sensor in the air tank too that the Nano monitors if the tank is low on air because I have it programmed so that if I'm out of meth or just have the SC turned off the SC clutch still engages at 30% throttle to turn on the compressor but the bypass stays open so I don't get any boost but still get all of the air I need to not bog down the motor in NA mode. It sounds like your setup runs normal without this, maybe I have some issues with mine like an intake leak or maybe my motor is just tired... anyway I'm doing another rebuild in September so we'll see how it looks inside from running boost and also from the WMI keeping the inside of the motor clean.
If you look at post #17 I found a picture on someone who modified the kit to take an air to water intercooler but TeamRX8 pointed out that it may not do a great job because of the size of it, so probably a normal air to air intercooler would be the best. How are you planning to route it from the Blitz setup? If you have any pictures of your setup please post them.
Thanks for creating a new thread for this topic.. love your build.. looks so dope..i knw wmi is a good idea.. i want to to put a air to air intercooler some how as its very simple and effective.
I'm planing to put the piping under the battery box and take it to the front side as i deleted the air pump.if not will try to mount the intercooler inside the engine bay.. yet to speak with the guy who is doing the custom intercooler job.. but i like the idea of having a front mount intercooler. I think It looks cool . But don't knw how it will effect the normal driverblity when the supercharger is off.it might add some restrictions as N/A air has to pass through the intercooler..Any idea? what if i put a bypass system between intake side and after the intercooler side?
This is my setup
Last edited by Dilshan Liyanage; 06-06-2020 at 04:38 PM.
Thanks for creating a new thread for this topic.. love your build.. looks so dope..i knw wmi is a good idea.. i want to to put a air to air intercooler some how as its very simple and effective.
I'm planing to put the piping under the battery box and take it to the front side as i deleted the air pump.if not will try to mount the intercooler inside the engine bay.. yet to speak with the guy who is doing the custom intercooler job.. but i like the idea of having a front mount intercooler. I think It looks cool . But don't knw how it will effect the normal driverblity when the supercharger is off.it might add some restrictions as N/A air has to pass through the intercooler..Any idea? what if i put a bypass system between intake side and after the intercooler side?
Great looking setup! I haven't seen very many Blitz installs, I think I may have the only left-hand drive install. I like the dampener you have installed to the top of the compressor, looks like a good mod to help with the extra weight and save the motor mounts from wearing out sooner.
Modifying for an intercooler with this kit might be tricky. I'm not sure if you saw my post about where I found a picture that someone installed a PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler by cutting the cast aluminum and extending and welding it on the other side to get the intercooler to fit. Is this what you're thinking about doing or do you have another way to get the are from the compressor to the air to air piping and over to the intercooler and back? I don't know that you would need a bypass but if you're going though all of this trouble to install the intercooler you could always at least make a place to install one later if you need it.
Great to see someone with a few clues get into this setup and see what it can do. I know there have been quite a few disastrous installs done.
Watching with interest.
Great looking setup! I haven't seen very many Blitz installs, I think I may have the only left-hand drive install. I like the dampener you have installed to the top of the compressor, looks like a good mod to help with the extra weight and save the motor mounts from wearing out sooner.
Modifying for an intercooler with this kit might be tricky. I'm not sure if you saw my post about where I found a picture that someone installed a PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler by cutting the cast aluminum and extending and welding it on the other side to get the intercooler to fit. Is this what you're thinking about doing or do you have another way to get the are from the compressor to the air to air piping and over to the intercooler and back? I don't know that you would need a bypass but if you're going though all of this trouble to install the intercooler you could always at least make a place to install one later if you need it.
Thank you,yes.that dampener will help..its very rare to find blitz setup for rx8s..but i like the idea of having a clutched supercharger ..i think its a very clever design except for some flows..my goal is to make more power somehow..
yes i have seen PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler setup before..as you said i dont think it has a big effect.
my plan is to get the compressor air re-route and send it through the intercooler by cutting the cast aluminum part .will make a way to bypass the intercooler for normal operation as if long piping and all add restriction..yet this is a theory..
Thank you,yes.that dampener will help..its very rare to find blitz setup for rx8s..but i like the idea of having a clutched supercharger ..i think its a very clever design except for some flows..my goal is to make more power somehow..
yes i have seen PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler setup before..as you said i dont think it has a big effect.
my plan is to get the compressor air re-route and send it through the intercooler by cutting the cast aluminum part .will make a way to bypass the intercooler for normal operation as if long piping and all add restriction..yet this is a theory..
I'd be interested to see a proper intercooler install on this kit. Are you planning to do this any time soon? I'd like to add an intercooler but it's a lot of work with this kit so please do it and show us how to do it the right way!
The program I wrote for the arduino nano got too big so I upgraded to a nano every and connected a bluetooth ble module so I could interface with this remotely from inside of the car to see what the program is doing and to be able to change some of the timing parameters on the fly. So now I'm moving the wiring mess on top of the piggyback and working on rewiring the arduino and relay board into a separate aluminum box and using aviation connectors and separate plugs for power in and all of the outputs to the clutch, bypass and WM motor and all of the inputs coming back. Should be a lot cleaner looking when I'm done.
Here's a screenshot from my phone of the interface I created using Bluetooth Electronics. I tried a few different interfaces and this one had the best options and auto connect and startup support for a wide range of connections for free software. This software was easy to customize and the modifications to my c code were minimal. Bluetooth Electronics interface to my Arduino Nano Every w/BLE module.
I have the delaySCoff currently set to 4000ms, this keeps the SC clutch engaged for 4 second after the throttle drops below 30% so I can shift gears without the clutch having to reengage, no boost lag between gear shifts! The delayWMon waits to turn on the WM pump, 400ms currently. There are a lot more setting in the software that I added but these are the ones I'm focusing on now.
I'd be interested to see a proper intercooler install on this kit. Are you planning to do this any time soon? I'd like to add an intercooler but it's a lot of work with this kit so please do it and show us how to do it the right way!
The program I wrote for the arduino nano got too big so I upgraded to a nano every and connected a bluetooth ble module so I could interface with this remotely from inside of the car to see what the program is doing and to be able to change some of the timing parameters on the fly. So now I'm moving the wiring mess on top of the piggyback and working on rewiring the arduino and relay board into a separate aluminum box and using aviation connectors and separate plugs for power in and all of the outputs to the clutch, bypass and WM motor and all of the inputs coming back. Should be a lot cleaner looking when I'm done.
Here's a screenshot from my phone of the interface I created using Bluetooth Electronics. I tried a few different interfaces and this one had the best options and auto connect and startup support for a wide range of connections for free software. This software was easy to customize and the modifications to my c code were minimal. Bluetooth Electronics interface to my Arduino Nano Every w/BLE module.
I have the delaySCoff currently set to 4000ms, this keeps the SC clutch engaged for 4 second after the throttle drops below 30% so I can shift gears without the clutch having to reengage, no boost lag between gear shifts! The delayWMon waits to turn on the WM pump, 400ms currently. There are a lot more setting in the software that I added but these are the ones I'm focusing on now.
wow you have lot of hightech stuff.watching with interest.I'm not good at all the programming and tuning stuff like you..yes im planing to install the intercooler soon when the covid issue is over..my goal is to make 300 WHP. If required i may change the alternator double pulley with a slightly bigger one.. Belt slip will be a issue.i saw your youtube videos. Very impressive .how did you manage to stop the belt slip
Any plan to do a dyno to see the power? why did you use emange Piggyback instead of versatuner for tuning? I'm still thinking to go with the versatuner or adaptronic sandalone for future power upgrades
wow you have lot of hightech stuff.watching with interest.I'm not good at all the programming and tuning stuff like you..yes im planing to install the intercooler soon when the covid issue is over..my goal is to make 300 WHP. If required i may change the alternator double pulley with a slightly bigger one.. Belt slip will be a issue.i saw your youtube videos. Very impressive .how did you manage to stop the belt slip
Any plan to do a dyno to see the power? why did you use emange Piggyback instead of versatuner for tuning? I'm still thinking to go with the versatuner or adaptronic sandalone for future power upgrades
Dilshan,
The belts do require some maintenance but from what I deciphered from the manual you need to keep them very tight, only about 2mm deflection for 22lbs of pressure, which you can do easily with the adjusters. Obviously not so tight that you wreck the bearings in the alternator (the main belt hub for this system).
Here's the Japanese to English and how I deciphered it. 98N is the pressure you need to put on the belt and 2.0 - 2.8mm is the short belt deflection and 2.3 - 3.0mm is the long belt deflection
I'll wait to dino, I'm actually planning a rebuild. The build I did in 2017 only has about 35K miles on it but I only did the apex and replaced the rotor housings. I did the corner seals and the soft oil o-rings but left the old side seals and old springs. The motor has always run great but never had great compression, only measured 80lbs after the rebuild. Still runs good but I think I can get a lot better power if I go back in and do a complete rebuild and even lap and re-nitrid the housings.
As for using e-manage and not versatuner. Versatuner can tune all of the tables but I didn't see a way to use the MAP sensor or trigger the clutch at 30% throttle. Also I'll be using another table to vary the speed of the WM pump. Look at some of my other post to see the tables. Like some of the other guys have said, if you can afford the adaptronic standalone you should go that route. But for now the e-manage was cheap and it's working for me.
Decided to pull the motor and do a rebuild. It's been 3 years now since the last rebuild and compression was never that great. I sent out the irons to Chip's and had them resurfaced and renitrided and got a complete seal kit from Racing Beat. I thought I was going to reuse the aluminum housings but it looks like I picked up something in the front chamber that scratched it pretty good. Not on the compression side but I decided to buy some new ones, again, and sell these old ones on eBay for a few bucks, only 30,000 miles on them and the other one is like new. All my parts are here so it's going back together this weekend.
I'll get it smogged and then the Blitz SC and WMI goes back on!!
Bad scratch! maybe I got it when my Racing Beat air filter fell off one time. Resurfaced and new ones! Rotors cleaned, rebuilt and ready to go! All new seals!! First housing on the stack with a new main bearing in it. My new clutch. Thought Id try this CenterForce with a dual friction disc. a lot of cool features, hopefully works as well as it looks!
Finished the rebuild and dropped it in on labor day. I needed to wait on some new oil injector (bolts) and clean and add a rebuild kit to the fuel injectors before I could finish it off. But it fired up on Saturday and looks like it's going to be a real beast!
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<-- (not the greatest video but wanted to document it) - Got about 180 miles on it at the time of this post so I'm still babying it, keeping it under 6k till it breaks in and the new clutch seats.
Dropping in the fresh rebuild. The trans got a rebuild too and went in the day before
First start, back to stock...for now...
Building the stack went smooth once I figured out the side seal clearance.
Transmission in the background that I replaced a few of the synchros and bearings in it. Also sleeved the input shift so no more leaks from that!
Left the oil pan on loose until I got a new strainer seal. So dumb the gasket kit doesn't come with one!
I'm part way through a build and found one of these blitz supercharger cheap so I picked it up just wondering what there like pick up and response wise? Anyone know how much boost they actually put out? And has anyone played with the pulley to increase boost
Going to be running a 13B-MSP bridgeport supercharged and on E85.
So what is the big downside of bridgeporting a reni motor?
I did have a look and couldn't find any proof about bridgeport the renesis just people walking themselves on a forum
yes I know the msp is different to any other rotary
then go read every bridgeport thread and post on here. You won’t find a single dyno or comment on here that confirms to be a benefit other than people with no credibility talking seat of the pants nonsense and fluff. Adding overlap on a Renesis is going to hurt both low and high end performance, if not side seal durability too; a well know Renesis issue exacerbated by porting.
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05-16-2020, 10:47 AM
while in boost so if I don't get the proportional working I may need to get a bigger tank.
