Pettit Super Charger Owners
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Update: I have fixed the power steering issue. I pulled the 60A fuse by the battery and sprayed its contacts with electronic contact cleaner, and did the same with the 2 harnesses lying on the radiator fan shroud (between the two fans). Seems I must have jostled one of them loose or slopped some coolant or oil on one of them during the install. I also managed to swap the inlet/outlet hoses on the intercooler (took some wrangling due to their lengths). Good to go now!
Just unmated my COBB AP from my ECU and returned to stock, and then used my laptop/Tactrix dongle/MazdaEdit to download my base-map for modification and tuning.
Soon... So soon! Man I can't wait to drive this bastard once it's tuned! I've never driven a car with more than ~180whp before! I have this sort of thing in life, like a policy, where I refuse to drive something that I don't or can't yet own. So it's like, as I acquire and build faster and faster cars, I experience the speed upgrades for the first time with each new vehicle. This is exciting.
Just unmated my COBB AP from my ECU and returned to stock, and then used my laptop/Tactrix dongle/MazdaEdit to download my base-map for modification and tuning.
Soon... So soon! Man I can't wait to drive this bastard once it's tuned! I've never driven a car with more than ~180whp before! I have this sort of thing in life, like a policy, where I refuse to drive something that I don't or can't yet own. So it's like, as I acquire and build faster and faster cars, I experience the speed upgrades for the first time with each new vehicle. This is exciting.
Last edited by OtherSyde; 09-28-2019 at 04:50 PM.
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RotaryMachineRx (09-27-2019)
A few incoherent thoughts:
First, looking good OtherSyde. I like to see other people taking their time and doing things right. And car parts in the kitchen?
Is that Karropak stuff really going to work? It looks paper thin, not sure it's much of a gasket. I have no experience with it, maybe it does. Someone else provided this link for Viton sheet. I know Viton is a good high temp sealing material, so was thinking of going that route.
What intake is that? Looks similar in placement to the RX8Performance Greddy Turbo CAI. These go where the VFAD normally sits (above bumper crash bar). It seems like this would get much less airflow than an AEM/MS intake? I guess it's adequate there, even for FI? I was going to go AEM/MS for best airflow, but that does have the one negative of blocking/pulling more air away from the radiator.
Speaking of radiators, does anybody really need to upgrade theirs for this kit? I am getting the MazMart REmedy water pump and Tstat, will that be sufficient for street use? I was going to wait until everything else is in and then order radiators etc to fit what space is left. I also have the added challenge of having an AT, so would need a different trans cooler then too. Also, my Pettit coolers were damaged in shipping, so I need a replacement for them anyway and was thinking of getting one larger one instead of 2 in parallel. It's too hard to order this until I see what I can fit.
I might order a nicer tank for the Pettit cooling system. Would it hurt to have a pressurized tank? This system doesn't heat up much, right? Like 125F? Will the pump be OK? Maybe someone has a better pump to suggest?
I also seem to be missing the M6x30 studs, thanks for the info.
I am ordering gauges, just wanted some input. Am I missing anything?
-boost/vac
-AFR
-fuel pressure
-AIT
-oil pressure
-oil temp
-water temp
-water temp (S/C circuit)
-voltage
Probably overkill, but what the hell, do it right the first time.
Thanks guys.
First, looking good OtherSyde. I like to see other people taking their time and doing things right. And car parts in the kitchen?
Is that Karropak stuff really going to work? It looks paper thin, not sure it's much of a gasket. I have no experience with it, maybe it does. Someone else provided this link for Viton sheet. I know Viton is a good high temp sealing material, so was thinking of going that route.
What intake is that? Looks similar in placement to the RX8Performance Greddy Turbo CAI. These go where the VFAD normally sits (above bumper crash bar). It seems like this would get much less airflow than an AEM/MS intake? I guess it's adequate there, even for FI? I was going to go AEM/MS for best airflow, but that does have the one negative of blocking/pulling more air away from the radiator.
Speaking of radiators, does anybody really need to upgrade theirs for this kit? I am getting the MazMart REmedy water pump and Tstat, will that be sufficient for street use? I was going to wait until everything else is in and then order radiators etc to fit what space is left. I also have the added challenge of having an AT, so would need a different trans cooler then too. Also, my Pettit coolers were damaged in shipping, so I need a replacement for them anyway and was thinking of getting one larger one instead of 2 in parallel. It's too hard to order this until I see what I can fit.
I might order a nicer tank for the Pettit cooling system. Would it hurt to have a pressurized tank? This system doesn't heat up much, right? Like 125F? Will the pump be OK? Maybe someone has a better pump to suggest?
I also seem to be missing the M6x30 studs, thanks for the info.
I am ordering gauges, just wanted some input. Am I missing anything?
-boost/vac
-AFR
-fuel pressure
-AIT
-oil pressure
-oil temp
-water temp
-water temp (S/C circuit)
-voltage
Probably overkill, but what the hell, do it right the first time.
Thanks guys.
And I have to add that if you really are getting 30 MPG on a tank of gas you should have your RX-8 taken away. ;-) Your missing the point of what makes it the most fun thing I've ever driven. Oh I know this was mentioned a long way back in the thread about 1/4 mile racing. This is (I think) another wrong reason to drive an RX-8. Driving in a straight line fast is missing the whole design goal of its amazing handling. But if you really want to drag race just check out this video
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iTrader: (1)
want to buy 11 and 13 psi upgraded pulleys for ryans rotary pulley upgrade he doesnt have them and i want to run more boost!! if you have the pulleys and dont want to use them i will take them off your hands
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iTrader: (3)
Great write up!
you may want to consider a water meth set up if you are going with the higher boost pully .... not for more hp....but for more protection against detonation.
you may want to consider a water meth set up if you are going with the higher boost pully .... not for more hp....but for more protection against detonation.
Othersyde, I stumbled onto your youtube channel the other days. How do you like your mazdaedit tune? Have you seen the A/F logs under boost? Are you still on the stock injectors?
I am thinking about getting mine retuned. It has been on the rich side since I got it back after the reman swap. Its safe but I thinking I am leaving too much hp on the table. I am also sick of the stalling every time that the ECU has to relearn idle. Have you had that issue with the mazdaedit tune> I never had that problem back on the original EFI Dude tune
I am thinking about getting mine retuned. It has been on the rich side since I got it back after the reman swap. Its safe but I thinking I am leaving too much hp on the table. I am also sick of the stalling every time that the ECU has to relearn idle. Have you had that issue with the mazdaedit tune> I never had that problem back on the original EFI Dude tune
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Othersyde, I stumbled onto your youtube channel the other days. How do you like your mazdaedit tune? Have you seen the A/F logs under boost? Are you still on the stock injectors?
I am thinking about getting mine retuned. It has been on the rich side since I got it back after the reman swap. Its safe but I thinking I am leaving too much hp on the table. I am also sick of the stalling every time that the ECU has to relearn idle. Have you had that issue with the mazdaedit tune? I never had that problem back on the original EFI Dude tune
I am thinking about getting mine retuned. It has been on the rich side since I got it back after the reman swap. Its safe but I thinking I am leaving too much hp on the table. I am also sick of the stalling every time that the ECU has to relearn idle. Have you had that issue with the mazdaedit tune? I never had that problem back on the original EFI Dude tune
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
If you have high ltft at idle (after several drive cycles)...that could be why.Would require rescaling maf to fix . Alternatively , if your throttle body has carbon around the throttle plate , this can cause the ecu to initially struggle to maintain idle.
RIP Furai
iTrader: (3)
Looks great OtherSyde!
I know I've been MIA for a while. My Pettit castings and aluminum tanks were held hostage at a polisher for a year. I got them back but they look like crap and I'll have to replace the tanks. Anyway, starting to get back into the project so hopefully I'll join the boosted party soonish.
I know I've been MIA for a while. My Pettit castings and aluminum tanks were held hostage at a polisher for a year. I got them back but they look like crap and I'll have to replace the tanks. Anyway, starting to get back into the project so hopefully I'll join the boosted party soonish.
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Short and simple question for the sc users.
is it worth it?
is it worth it?
Wow, that Blitz setup is really something! I love to see different SC setups, but most have died off at this point (Blitz, Knight Sport, Hymee, and really even Pettit by now). Very neat and exotic, I love it! I wish someone in the US would simply scan this into some CNC machinery software and replicate the major pieces, it seems like a great little setup!
So I've had some belt issues lately, snapping my third belt today (the first one snapped back in December and a piece of the goddamn thing got wrapped around my eccentric shaft behind the main pulley and sliced open my front main seal causing oil to constantly squirt out of the front of the engine and coat everything with oil from the pulleys slinging it everywhere), so that was an expensive bitch and a half to get fixed - I got it repaired by by the resident Rotary Expert at Aero Automotive here in SoCal though, who I have to say did a great job at least). Finally figured out that it's because my tensioner pulley bracket was bent - likely from the previous owner having to torque down the tensioner to prevent belt slippage because they only had the stock Pettit pulley and not the wider 6-rib setup like I do now, which was causing the belt to constantly slide towards the forward edge of the pulley and rub against the pulley edge "wall", which was evidenced by the front-facing side of the belt always being frayed/mangled and stretched when they would fail. So, I got a long crowbar and wrapped it in cloth so as not to scratch anything, then leveraged it against the front/side of the compressor with the tip behind the back of the pulley-bracket, and managed to carefully bend it forward a few millimetres, and now the belt (I have multiple belts in my garage now because I ordered several on Amazon haha) is just about centered on the pulley and no longer forward or touching the edge of the pulley - you can see from the new contact patch/stripe on the pulley in the picture after a test drive. Sorry for the engine bay being so damned filthy right now - but fingers crossed, no more snapped belts!
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In other developments, I've been wondering for awhile why they ran the coolant loop return hose directly over the super-hot engine block and right between the super-hot alternator and compressor. I saw a picture online of a Pettit setup with the hose routed in a longer loop around the back and side of the engine bay, avoiding all the super hot stuff in the center altogether - and incidentally I had a bunch of hose left over from my install, so I mimicked that setup hoping to take a few extra degrees of heat out of the coolant loop. Also, unrelated, I painted my brake booster reservoir black with a yellow cap to match my windshield wiper fluid reservoir just to have a sense of symmetry.
So I've had some belt issues lately, snapping my third belt today (the first one snapped back in December and a piece of the goddamn thing got wrapped around my eccentric shaft behind the main pulley and sliced open my front main seal causing oil to constantly squirt out of the front of the engine and coat everything with oil from the pulleys slinging it everywhere), so that was an expensive bitch and a half to get fixed - I got it repaired by by the resident Rotary Expert at Aero Automotive here in SoCal though, who I have to say did a great job at least). Finally figured out that it's because my tensioner pulley bracket was bent - likely from the previous owner having to torque down the tensioner to prevent belt slippage because they only had the stock Pettit pulley and not the wider 6-rib setup like I do now, which was causing the belt to constantly slide towards the forward edge of the pulley and rub against the pulley edge "wall", which was evidenced by the front-facing side of the belt always being frayed/mangled and stretched when they would fail. So, I got a long crowbar and wrapped it in cloth so as not to scratch anything, then leveraged it against the front/side of the compressor with the tip behind the back of the pulley-bracket, and managed to carefully bend it forward a few millimetres, and now the belt (I have multiple belts in my garage now because I ordered several on Amazon haha) is just about centered on the pulley and no longer forward or touching the edge of the pulley - you can see from the new contact patch/stripe on the pulley in the picture after a test drive. Sorry for the engine bay being so damned filthy right now - but fingers crossed, no more snapped belts!
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In other developments, I've been wondering for awhile why they ran the coolant loop return hose directly over the super-hot engine block and right between the super-hot alternator and compressor. I saw a picture online of a Pettit setup with the hose routed in a longer loop around the back and side of the engine bay, avoiding all the super hot stuff in the center altogether - and incidentally I had a bunch of hose left over from my install, so I mimicked that setup hoping to take a few extra degrees of heat out of the coolant loop. Also, unrelated, I painted my brake booster reservoir black with a yellow cap to match my windshield wiper fluid reservoir just to have a sense of symmetry.
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For me, it was never even a choice - I didn't buy this car to leave it unmodified (it was already a salvage title when I bought it), and it felt slow. So it was either a turbo, a supercharger, or a different car.
But yeah, I love having upwards of ~300whp in a 1.5 ton RX8, it feels great and it's very fun especially once you get all the kinks ironed out of it.
But yeah, I love having upwards of ~300whp in a 1.5 ton RX8, it feels great and it's very fun especially once you get all the kinks ironed out of it.
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I have been wanting more out of it. I'm taking it slow though. I'm currently in the market for a Cobb or somthing of the sort (open to recommendations). I have most upgrade besides some cooling upgrades which is proly next on the list of things. Working toward SC. I feel Turbo just adds to the already high heat in the engine bay.
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iTrader: (1)
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iTrader: (1)
I have been wanting more out of it. I'm taking it slow though. I'm currently in the market for a Cobb or somthing of the sort (open to recommendations). I have most upgrade besides some cooling upgrades which is proly next on the list of things. Working toward SC. I feel Turbo just adds to the already high heat in the engine bay.
what year is your car ???
The first design of the tensioner bracket was bad. When you keep tightening the pulley to tighten the belt, it would pull the bracket towards the supercharger. I had snapped some belts and called Cam who told me about the redesign. It just moves the position of the bracket to help even out the pressure so the metal doesn’t bend. Also IIRC it’s also thicker metal. I got the redesigned bracket like 5-7 years ago
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1L Chrome Aluminum Radiator Coolant Overflow Bottle Recovery Tank Reservoir Set
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Also the issue with turbo wasn't really the extra heat in the engine bay, but the extra heat on the internal seals resulting from the hot turbo exhaust manifold and back-pressure, which tends to be worse on the Renesis because of our shitty EPA-compliant side-ports versus the REW's ports.
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On a stock block? Or a built/hardened or ported engine?
Also the issue with turbo wasn't really the extra heat in the engine bay, but the extra heat on the internal seals resulting from the hot turbo exhaust manifold and back-pressure, which tends to be worse on the Renesis because of our shitty EPA-compliant side-ports versus the REW's ports.
Also the issue with turbo wasn't really the extra heat in the engine bay, but the extra heat on the internal seals resulting from the hot turbo exhaust manifold and back-pressure, which tends to be worse on the Renesis because of our shitty EPA-compliant side-ports versus the REW's ports.
Yeah, I just wanted to address the stated misconception that running a turbo introduces excessive heat in the engine bay. Running a low-mount design does not.
Yes, there are pros & cons... w/ each FI platform..., e.g. potential side seal degradation d/t higher heat, which need to be mitigated. Everyone has to do his own research..., buy / build what you like, and like what you drive.
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OtherSyde (04-27-2020)