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Hi all I would just like to know if anyone has information on where to get a blower for the Pettit Racing supercharger kit. I have been talking to (Cam) he informed me that there was only so many of these kits made by the manufacturer they were working with. He said if I could somehow find the blower for the kit he will go ahead and shipped me the rest of the parts for me to assemble the whole thing myself . But, alas that ******* blower if impossible to find. I see up greater kits for sale but, that will cost me a nut 🥜. Any help locating a kenne bell blower or any blow that will for sure work would be appreciated .
My car is actually at a shop. I was having issues with the signal at the throttle body all summer. I replaced the TB twice and the second time seemed to fix it. Then I was driving to work in December and it locked into limp mode again. I tested the TB on another rx8 and it was fine. I took it to a rotary shop and they tested the wires and it was the culprit. I am mentioning it since it could easily happen to other people. Our cars and wires are getting a little crunchy at this point due to age and heat in the engine bay.
I was getting error code P0222
We kinda extend out the harness and clock it a bit with our SC kits. I am sure when the reman was installed, it also pulled on the wires. Just a heads up if you get that error code.
My understanding is that the computer is very sensitive to latency of signals in those wires. So, if you damaged them and tried to cut and splice in a new section, a different length of wire could cause some weird problems. Not saying you tried that, just a heads up to everyone. I was thinking about lengthening these wires to route them better, but research told me that was a bad idea.
The shop that fixed the signal issue was really talking up the new Adaptronic ECU for our car. The new one is a full replacement ECU and can control everything and sample/adjust much faster than the ECU/Cobb combo that most are running. The shop said you also have the option of removing the MAF entirely and running a MAP instead. I am probably going to look more into the option. The shop owner kept stressing how it will allow a much better tune to be created for the car and then that tuned ecu will be able to make adjustments on the fly to keep the motor running better and stay healthy. I would prob finally install a set of headers and cold air intake and go all-in but the cost is significant enough that it wont be a 2019 decision. I am just happy to be driving the car again and hearing that whine.
The shop that fixed the signal issue was really talking up the new Adaptronic ECU for our car. The new one is a full replacement ECU and can control everything and sample/adjust much faster than the ECU/Cobb combo that most are running. The shop said you also have the option of removing the MAF entirely and running a MAP instead. I am probably going to look more into the option. The shop owner kept stressing how it will allow a much better tune to be created for the car and then that tuned ecu will be able to make adjustments on the fly to keep the motor running better and stay healthy. I would prob finally install a set of headers and cold air intake and go all-in but the cost is significant enough that it wont be a 2019 decision. I am just happy to be driving the car again and hearing that whine.
Hmm... Really... I haven't heard of this Adaptronic ECU yet. It sounds really good. I think I found it online, looks like it's about $1,450 or so - I'm interested for sure, but much like you I'll have to stick with my Cobb setup until I can afford another ~$1,500
Hmm... Really... I haven't heard of this Adaptronic ECU yet. It sounds really good. I think I found it online, looks like it's about $1,450 or so - I'm interested for sure, but much like you I'll have to stick with my Cobb setup until I can afford another ~$1,500
Just know that if you go with a full stand alone like adaptronic, you will not pass emissions because they do not handle the OBD2 things like the OEM ECU.
Just know that if you go with a full stand alone like adaptronic, you will not pass emissions because they do not handle the OBD2 things like the OEM ECU.
Luckily I live in PA so if I stay under 5k miles or get classic plates (since its 15 years old), I am exempt. I went the classic plates route last time I did a standalone on a different car.
Just know that if you go with a full stand alone like adaptronic, you will not pass emissions because they do not handle the OBD2 things like the OEM ECU.
Pah! Pass emissions? In California? With a supercharger installed? Yeah, I think I'm already pretty well sunk in that area lol. I think most of us would be, in almost any state, really. How would you even pass emissions with an aftermarket supercharger blasting extra carbon and other goodies out the tail pipes? Is it actually possible to temporarily down-tune an SC so much that it passes emissions?
theres always a way around bs laws. im with keck tho, we are in pa and both get exempt. maybe pull the belt off you s/c for smog but it would probably require a different tune and run like ****
theres always a way around bs laws. im with keck tho, we are in pa and both get exempt. maybe pull the belt off you s/c for smog but it would probably require a different tune and run like ****
To be clear, I'm remotely registered in my Home of Record in Missouri (active duty military) so no safety or smog testing for me; I was just wondering if such a thing was possible with maybe reinstalling the stock cat, down-tuning the car to weak-sauce mode, and maybe even pulling off the SC belt like you said for a few hours.
im sure you could easily have a "safe tune" stored on a cobb/ecu and pull the belt for a short time. keck and i struggled with his s/c belt slipping for a while before he got it figured out. slvrstreak had issues too so im sure removing temp removal wouldnt cause bad ****
To be clear, I'm remotely registered in my Home of Record in Missouri (active duty military) so no safety or smog testing for me; I was just wondering if such a thing was possible with maybe reinstalling the stock cat, down-tuning the car to weak-sauce mode, and maybe even pulling off the SC belt like you said for a few hours.
With a twin screw setup, I wonder if the blades would block too much incoming air for the motor to run even in a limp mode with the belt removed
With a twin screw setup, I wonder if the blades would block too much incoming air for the motor to run even in a limp mode with the belt removed
Hmm... I wonder if you could just have a pulley fabricated that does like 0.01psi of boost or something - like a "neutral-boost" pulley. Sounds silly, and would be pointless for anything other than passing emissions, but it would be great for that! I bet Carl Ryan over at Ryan Rotary Performance could conjure this up and fabricate it - I'd buy one
Also that reminds me - didn't the Pettit kit originally come as a simplified Stage 1 kit with no air-to-water intercooler and only a 5psi pulley? I swear I saw that on their original web site. Does anyone know where to get one of those 5psi pulleys? I'd love to add one to my collection, so I'd have the option of 5psi, 8psi, 11psi, or 13psi! Plus, if you ran a paltry 5psi but with a full-on intercooler, I'd bet you would get almost stock-level of engine longevity as long as you have a solid tune and sturdy engine, while still getting a respectable 240-250rwhp.
EDIT - No, apparently there is no pulley that is limited to 5psi. It's just the 8psi pulley that fluctuates between 5 and 8 psi. Their original web site also just jumps directly into talking about Stage II and Stage II, never even mentioning a Stage I. Was there even a Stage I..? Or maybe they were just referring to the most base-model supercharger kit being an overall Stage II mod for the car.
Last edited by OtherSyde; Mar 22, 2019 at 07:38 PM.
Alright guys, one more question for now, and it's an easy straight-forward one I think: The last piece I'm missing for my install is that little M8 metal spacer from the Pettit kit that goes over the 150mm M8 metal stud which replaces one of the water-pump mounting bolts on the front of the engine. They can be bought on Amazon for a couple of bucks, but I don't know what length it should be; 8mm? 10mm? 12mm? 15mm? I want to get my SC installed soon and this, I think (hope) is the last obstacle. Does anyone know? I couldn't find it specified anywhere in the Pettit manual :/
Alright guys, one more question for now, and it's an easy straight-forward one I think: The last piece I'm missing for my install is that little M8 metal spacer from the Pettit kit that goes over the 150mm M8 metal stud which replaces one of the water-pump mounting bolts on the front of the engine. They can be bought on Amazon for a couple of bucks, but I don't know what length it should be; 8mm? 10mm? 12mm? 15mm? I want to get my SC installed soon and this, I think (hope) is the last obstacle. Does anyone know? I couldn't find it specified anywhere in the Pettit manual :/
Do you have a pic of this? It is a little hard for me to picture.
I feel like a ran into someone somewhere running a Stage 1 kit but that was forever ago so I can easily be wrong.
There's always a way... I'm thinking about wiring in my stock ECU alone with the stand alone, and only letting the stock ECU have the information it "needs"... I think I'm going to supercharge my 20b, but that's for a different discussion.
i just got the intercooler casting from cam senior, but need to get an intercooler to weld between the 2. can any body give me the dimensions of the intercooler with the end tanks welded on. would be very help full . thanks john
