Pettit Super Charger Owners
05-02-2011, 09:07 AM
#8801
Glad you have fun at the event-- did it drive strong? Ready for those R compound tires yet
Temperatures---glad the ambiet was not hotter. Just wait until the ambiet gets over 95F.
what grams sec are you seeing now?
Watch those temps super spy.
OD
Temperatures---glad the ambiet was not hotter. Just wait until the ambiet gets over 95F.
what grams sec are you seeing now?
Watch those temps super spy.
OD
Last edited by olddragger; 05-02-2011 at 02:14 PM.
05-02-2011, 11:39 AM
#8802
Mine was hanging out around 495 but I found what i believe to be the source of the issues. There's a boost leak from the UIM coupler that I'll repair this week; I'll report back with an update next week sometime. I'm glad to have something real to fix for the moment though. 
05-03-2011, 03:57 PM
#8804
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What the heck happened to this post??? I ran across earlier and it was a whole lot longer. I'm glad that I had the chance to saw it before it got chopped off.
Anyway, thanks for the oil cooler angle suggestion. I was able to add about 1/4 inch spacer to the each outer bracket stud and change the angle of the oil coolers a bit.
05-03-2011, 04:05 PM
#8805
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So I decided to make some changes to my oil coolers/RB bumper configuration. The OEM oil coolers rubber surround piece blocks the air flow of the lower RB bumper hole and it allows a big gap over the oil cooler. Noticed the before mod pictures. 
05-03-2011, 04:13 PM
#8806
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I decided to remove the OEM rubber surround piece and place the RB oil cooler protecting screens directly against the oil coolers. Then I fabricated a series of shields to channel/direct the airflow into the oil coolers. 
05-03-2011, 06:52 PM
#8808
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Back from the drive. Ambient temp 90 degrees. Drove for a while in heavy traffic with A/C on to get the engine well over normal engine temp. Then time to drive fast or at least try to replicate Road Racing driving without getting a speeding ticket from the po-po. So A/C off and windows down. IAT at 120~125 and driving 70~80 mph mostly on 4th gear and a little 5th gear here and there. RPMs 5,000~5,500 to replicate Road Racing without going over 80 mph.
I did encountered one typical Central Floriduh redneck with one of those 4x4 that you can walk under and the idiot tried to race me. Sorry fool, smell my catless/meth supercharge rotary exhaust and C-ya.
Anyway, sorry for the sidebar.
My ECT and Oil temps were basically the same give or take a degree or two. My temps were 193~196 and when I got back the fabricated shield were still perfectly in place.
Will see if it really made a change when I go to my next Road Race at Sebring on the 29th. I was going well over 135 mph on the last straightaway the last time I was there.
I did encountered one typical Central Floriduh redneck with one of those 4x4 that you can walk under and the idiot tried to race me. Sorry fool, smell my catless/meth supercharge rotary exhaust and C-ya.
Anyway, sorry for the sidebar.
My ECT and Oil temps were basically the same give or take a degree or two. My temps were 193~196 and when I got back the fabricated shield were still perfectly in place.
Will see if it really made a change when I go to my next Road Race at Sebring on the 29th. I was going well over 135 mph on the last straightaway the last time I was there.
Last edited by marsredr100; 05-03-2011 at 06:56 PM.
05-03-2011, 08:45 PM
#8809
bingo! But remember a lot of heat is produced with high load conditions --not just rpms. Got any tall hills done there--lol.
About the post--- i reread it and it sounded like I was sorta lecturing so I edited some out. You know what you are doing.
I think a bigger secondary cooler would help and that a/w cooler made mine run hotter--it blocked to much air. Its a real nice cooler--just too restrictive for a stacked arrangement.
World starts changing after around 125mph doesnt it?
make SURE your fender liners and your front lip is good and secure--i blew out a fender liner at speed once--it wasnt pretty
About the post--- i reread it and it sounded like I was sorta lecturing so I edited some out. You know what you are doing.
I think a bigger secondary cooler would help and that a/w cooler made mine run hotter--it blocked to much air. Its a real nice cooler--just too restrictive for a stacked arrangement.
World starts changing after around 125mph doesnt it?
make SURE your fender liners and your front lip is good and secure--i blew out a fender liner at speed once--it wasnt pretty
05-03-2011, 09:13 PM
#8812
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bingo! But remember a lot of heat is produced with high load conditions --not just rpms. Got any tall hills done there--lol.
Nicez!
I think a bigger secondary cooler would help and that a/w cooler made mine run hotter--it blocked to much air. Its a real nice cooler--just too restrictive for a stacked arrangement.
I have two secondary coolers. One is a rail and the other is like the one you suggested with the a/w radiator stacked and an electric pull fan behind them in a vertical position. The only thing in front of the BHR radiator is the A/C condenser.
World starts changing after around 125mph doesnt it?
Yup, specially at the end of the straightaway with a 90 degree turn.
make SURE your fender liners and your front lip is good and secure--i blew out a fender liner at speed once--it wasnt pretty
Nicez!
I think a bigger secondary cooler would help and that a/w cooler made mine run hotter--it blocked to much air. Its a real nice cooler--just too restrictive for a stacked arrangement.
I have two secondary coolers. One is a rail and the other is like the one you suggested with the a/w radiator stacked and an electric pull fan behind them in a vertical position. The only thing in front of the BHR radiator is the A/C condenser.
World starts changing after around 125mph doesnt it?
Yup, specially at the end of the straightaway with a 90 degree turn.
make SURE your fender liners and your front lip is good and secure--i blew out a fender liner at speed once--it wasnt pretty
05-04-2011, 08:54 AM
#8813
Oh-----you have 2 secondary's and was still seeing those coolant temps---216F while keeping the redline down to 7.5K in mid 80 ambients? Damn.
If I may suggest something? That a/w cooler is too thick and air flow restrictive, I would try the pettits coolers again. They are much thinner and will not impede air flow nearly as bad. You have to remember that an a/w cooler is not going to get the coolant down to ambient once it is saturated. The most important thing is the delta. So if the a/w coolant coming in is for example 120F then leaving it will be around 100F. Additional fins etc is not going to help with that small amount of cooling. Its easier to cool from 120 to 100 that it is from 120 to 80F
That being known you want the cooler that still does that without impeding airflow much because other coolers behind it will still need good air flow.
I was waiting until mine was up and running before I posted pics of my v mount secondary cooler set up and my a/w cooler set up.
I no longer have to stack coolers. I have a slightly bigger summit racing cooler using it for my a/w cooler. It flows the coolant much better than Pettits set up and thats important because a/w cooler pumps cannot handle much head pressure. It also has that great open fin design. I mount it directly on the front support beam.
You also have to remember that the a/w coolant pump cannot pump but what coolant is provided to it. The pump supply hose and fitting from the tank needs to be as big as possible. These pumps also do not have very much suction so the lower you can install the pump the better supply of coolant you will get. I mounted mine inbetween the oil cooler and the air dam space. It worked out very well and my coolant flow increased significantly. My overall intake charge temps really didnt drop that much (maybe 5 degress) during everyday driving but on track it can handle a higher load cooling than before and during stress times like bumper to bumper on a hot summer day-- it will now not get over 130F if I dont go into boost much.
Ok--my secondary radiator was providing too much cooling--keeping my ect in the 180's and below during regular driving on anything less than 95F day.
Now I have the mazmart pump and thermostat also. I run a blend of 70/30 distilled water and antifreeze. I plumb my secondary coolant from the engine heater supply hose. When you plumb it that way it is IMPERATVE to drill the thermostat. This is why. The thermostat will restrict flow to the primary radiator until it reaches its opening temps--right? So if you are running a secondary radiator using the heater hose supply you have to remember that flow is NOT REGULATED BY THE THERMOSTAT. Meaning that the secondary radiator will have to be staturated with heat before the thermostat will open. Follow? Thats not good. Because here you have a well warmed engine--the thermostat opens and all that very cool coolant from the primary radiator starts flowing into the engine. Coolant shock is a real thing. To fix this drill the thermostat. Doing this allows coolant to flow through the primary system all the time and that way EVERYTHING warms up together, plus it increased coolant flow just a little bit.
So all that being said, I ended up mounting my secondary radiator with the top part attached to the lower radiator supports about 4 inches from the belly pan and the bottom part of the cooler about one inch from the bottom part of the bellypan. The open design of this cooler allows for plenty of air flow with an exit through the bellypan relief holes. This allowed me to keep good low speed temps around town but provided very good cooling during speed. Also on the back part of the bellypan where my mounts are? I added a half circle spoiler approx 3/4 inch high to create a low pressure zone which will help draw out that engine bay heat .Pretty trick --huh?
Another suggestion? I would remove the electric fan from behind the secondary. That also impedes airflow and when I tried one I found that it really didnt help anything. I just had the engine bay fans come on at 180F and that helped.
Just put a leaf blower in front of your car and feel with your hand how much air is penetratingthe various coolers. I know some people would be surprised.
This is what is working for me. Everyones set up is different. Driving styles and enviroment is different also. I hope I dont sound like a "know it all" because I dont ! I just have tried many different things until I found something that worked for me.
So anyone just take what I have said for what it is worth to you, maybe some of it can help, maybe not.
rotor on Bros
OD
If I may suggest something? That a/w cooler is too thick and air flow restrictive, I would try the pettits coolers again. They are much thinner and will not impede air flow nearly as bad. You have to remember that an a/w cooler is not going to get the coolant down to ambient once it is saturated. The most important thing is the delta. So if the a/w coolant coming in is for example 120F then leaving it will be around 100F. Additional fins etc is not going to help with that small amount of cooling. Its easier to cool from 120 to 100 that it is from 120 to 80F
That being known you want the cooler that still does that without impeding airflow much because other coolers behind it will still need good air flow.
I was waiting until mine was up and running before I posted pics of my v mount secondary cooler set up and my a/w cooler set up.
I no longer have to stack coolers. I have a slightly bigger summit racing cooler using it for my a/w cooler. It flows the coolant much better than Pettits set up and thats important because a/w cooler pumps cannot handle much head pressure. It also has that great open fin design. I mount it directly on the front support beam.
You also have to remember that the a/w coolant pump cannot pump but what coolant is provided to it. The pump supply hose and fitting from the tank needs to be as big as possible. These pumps also do not have very much suction so the lower you can install the pump the better supply of coolant you will get. I mounted mine inbetween the oil cooler and the air dam space. It worked out very well and my coolant flow increased significantly. My overall intake charge temps really didnt drop that much (maybe 5 degress) during everyday driving but on track it can handle a higher load cooling than before and during stress times like bumper to bumper on a hot summer day-- it will now not get over 130F if I dont go into boost much.
Ok--my secondary radiator was providing too much cooling--keeping my ect in the 180's and below during regular driving on anything less than 95F day.
Now I have the mazmart pump and thermostat also. I run a blend of 70/30 distilled water and antifreeze. I plumb my secondary coolant from the engine heater supply hose. When you plumb it that way it is IMPERATVE to drill the thermostat. This is why. The thermostat will restrict flow to the primary radiator until it reaches its opening temps--right? So if you are running a secondary radiator using the heater hose supply you have to remember that flow is NOT REGULATED BY THE THERMOSTAT. Meaning that the secondary radiator will have to be staturated with heat before the thermostat will open. Follow? Thats not good. Because here you have a well warmed engine--the thermostat opens and all that very cool coolant from the primary radiator starts flowing into the engine. Coolant shock is a real thing. To fix this drill the thermostat. Doing this allows coolant to flow through the primary system all the time and that way EVERYTHING warms up together, plus it increased coolant flow just a little bit.
So all that being said, I ended up mounting my secondary radiator with the top part attached to the lower radiator supports about 4 inches from the belly pan and the bottom part of the cooler about one inch from the bottom part of the bellypan. The open design of this cooler allows for plenty of air flow with an exit through the bellypan relief holes. This allowed me to keep good low speed temps around town but provided very good cooling during speed. Also on the back part of the bellypan where my mounts are? I added a half circle spoiler approx 3/4 inch high to create a low pressure zone which will help draw out that engine bay heat .Pretty trick --huh?
Another suggestion? I would remove the electric fan from behind the secondary. That also impedes airflow and when I tried one I found that it really didnt help anything. I just had the engine bay fans come on at 180F and that helped.
Just put a leaf blower in front of your car and feel with your hand how much air is penetratingthe various coolers. I know some people would be surprised.
This is what is working for me. Everyones set up is different. Driving styles and enviroment is different also. I hope I dont sound like a "know it all" because I dont ! I just have tried many different things until I found something that worked for me.
So anyone just take what I have said for what it is worth to you, maybe some of it can help, maybe not.
rotor on Bros
OD
05-04-2011, 02:15 PM
#8816
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There is no doubt that the oil coolers were partially airflow blocked and wrong airflow by my RB nose. Will see what happens at Sebring and will adjust accordingly.
05-04-2011, 03:02 PM
#8817
Londons Yellow Peril
Hi Juan, why not also think about a Greddy oil pan. I am fitting one as I will be doing more tracking too.
More oil = cooler, plus it has cooling fins etc on the sump, AND you get baffling to help eliminate oil starvation?
Mind you maybe you already have it? The cooler ducting should help a bit too though
More oil = cooler, plus it has cooling fins etc on the sump, AND you get baffling to help eliminate oil starvation?
Mind you maybe you already have it? The cooler ducting should help a bit too though
05-04-2011, 07:58 PM
#8819
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Hi Juan, why not also think about a Greddy oil pan. I am fitting one as I will be doing more tracking too.
More oil = cooler, plus it has cooling fins etc on the sump, AND you get baffling to help eliminate oil starvation?
Mind you maybe you already have it? The cooler ducting should help a bit too though
More oil = cooler, plus it has cooling fins etc on the sump, AND you get baffling to help eliminate oil starvation?
Mind you maybe you already have it? The cooler ducting should help a bit too though
05-06-2011, 12:37 PM
#8822
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Update
Thought i'd stop by and let everyone know i'm still alive. Car has been sitting in my garage for over a year due to my electrical issue. I've been traveling back and forth between DC and NC allmost every weekend. This combined with my laziness is the reason the car is still sitting. I hope everyone is still running strong with no issues.
-Yambo
-Yambo
05-08-2011, 09:07 PM
#8824
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Ok, got a set of yellows from Cam. He told me what they flow but I forgot. Like I said before the plan is to put the 480 in the 390 spot then those should take care of the rest. 90ccs of injector difference shouldnt be to hard to dial in for good idle and drivability. Man, does anyone know what those yellow injectors flow at??? I talked to someone that said they THINK they can run 900ccs uncapped but something dosnt sound rite about that.
Last edited by Moon Assad; 05-08-2011 at 09:10 PM.
05-08-2011, 09:17 PM
#8825
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=106
Team Posted this last week...might want to talk to him if this doesn't give you enough info
Team Posted this last week...might want to talk to him if this doesn't give you enough info