You HAVE to run your engine for at least 5 minutes after running meth in order to clean/flush the system. There was no noticeable apex wear after 55k miles on the engine. About 30k were FI and about 25k running meth. My set up is based on boost pressure and it only starts spraying once I reach 6+. Spraying amount increases gradually to full spray as the boost psi goes up. Again, I used VP M5 which contains a bit of nitromethane and it is a little oily. I also have an ON/OFF switch for when is definitely not needed.

Also, I use hylomar (a form of non hardening RTV) for all my water hoses and other removable parts. It prevents rust from forming and makes it easy to disconnect water hose connections aside from the normal sealing properties.

 

NITRO------you dog!
JK man.
i am going to convert to a boost controlled set up too.

 

Hello supercharger people. I have searched and now I am overwhelmed with sprays, and wires, and pinholes, and Vonnegut valves, and well...I just need friendly advice.

So let's say a regular guy like me wants to put a Pettit SC on his RX8. Is it a maintainence and tech nightmare, or is that just from reading all the things I don't quite understand?

I'd simply like some more power/torque for driving around on a daily basis. Would a pettit SC be a good choice?

Thank you in advance.

 

For a daily driver its great. Put it this way, if you do a basic install, gut or replace your cat with a midpipe your looking at a long trouble free life. Ask OD, youl never want to get rid of your 8. Just make sure you do the job properly or have it done by someone compitant. If you have any doubt dont try it yourself. I do oil changes every 2000 miles (engine) and 4 or 5000 miles (blower). Others stretch it out but I see that as risking my investment.

 

basic low boost install, get the temps under control. do good maintainance, run good gas and you will be fine.
it totally changes the car and makes driving it sooooo much better.
Gas mileage is hardly affected--if you keep your foot out of it.
Do it--you will not regret it one minute.
Help with the install--so you will have a good knowledge base.
od

 

Speaking of bad gas OD, would you think getting a pump gas tester of some sort would be overkill????

 

drag racers around here are already testing the ethanol content---its a small tube and its an easy test. They have found anywhere from 7-18% ethanol present in some of the so call top tier stations around here.
OD

 

Man, I wish they would have more e85 pumps. Id bet we could run it but a tune would be in order.

 

I have easily available E85---but guess what---it goes bad quick and you can get a lot of water in it.
I dont they sale enough to swap out the supply fast enough?
I just dont understand why cant allow high test to be pure gas? Unless its a real performance car no new cars demand high test.
I get a tank of pure gas every now and then. I just luck out and find one. boy does it make a difference.
Easy 24mpg on the interstate.
runs so much smoother.
OD

 

Yes. After fitting you just drive it as normal, and change the oil every so often. No worries, and a transformed and great car.

 

Are the parts uncoated aluminum? Methanol acts to corrode aluminum. From Wikipedia: "
One of the potential drawbacks of using high concentrations of methanol (and other alcohols like ethanol) in fuel is its corrosivity to some metals, particularly aluminium. Methanol, although a weak acid, attacks the oxide coating that normally protects the aluminium from corrosion:
6 CH3OH + Al2O3 → 2 Al(OCH3)3 + 3 H2OThe resulting methoxide salts are soluble in methanol, resulting in a clean aluminium surface, which is readily oxidized by dissolved oxygen. Also the methanol can act as an oxidizer:
6 CH3OH + 2 Al → 2 Al(OCH3)3 + 3 H2This reciprocal process effectively fuels corrosion until either the metal is eaten away or the concentration of CH3OH is negligible. Concerns with methanol's corrosivity have been addressed by using methanol compatible materials, and fuel additives that serve as corrosion inhibitors."

 

with the meth at 50% and a few years of use (that means many gallons) i have not seen any aluminum corrosion at all. i have seen the gunk accumulation pre intercooler( on the immediate top of our blower) inside the blower and at the 180 degree turn at the air inlet, but thats it?
Some years ago on the track I had so much oil blowback that i had oil dripping out of the intake. This blow back came back trough the intercooler and blower. (The crankcase vent had became clogged). I do wonder if that residual oil coating had some responsibility in this gunk accumulation.
Not sure, but I do know --no more pre blower for me.

 

I have all the parts fabbed up, welded and painted. As I sit here wanting to finish the job im watching the 8 get covered once again by snow.

 

damn--its 70F in Ga
OD

 

It was 74 here in Virginia Beach yesterday. Today's high is 38.

 

This looks sick

 

Tim Taylor gonna go nuts for a supercharged washing machine

 

Nicez!

How many loads can you wash now since the maytag is now supercharged.

 

Ouch!

 

815 miles thus far and tomorrow the final 185 so I can change the oil/filter and be done with the break in.

Today I changed the tranny and diff gear oil. Redline MT-90 for the tranny and Redline 75w90 for the diff.

Also a fresh set L&T of NGK 10.5 gapped at .25

After that, data logging and if ok back to drive it like you stole it mode.

 

Fastest washer on the east coast.

 

good job Moon, cant wait to go for a ride!

 

PettIt lists their S/C kit for 2004-2010. Do they support S2 now?

Someone posted this link in the S2 section.

http://shop.pettitracing.com/pettit_...t/g-62947.aspx

 

I dont think so, not yet. Moon is doing a custom mod setup for an R3 in the posts above I think.

 

Moon has it done!
Dude i do like that design. The TB placement is really sweet. Low profile and compact. VERY NICE, VERY NICE. Did you port the blower too?

Juan---I know you cant wait! Can I ask why you are running the colder plugs on the street?
The oem plugs regapped, read fine in mine. At times at the track I have ran the colder denso's but not on the street. Should I be?
Is it because your car is no longer a DD?
By the way ---I have a new thermostat set up yall my be interested in.
I have taken the Stewart barrel type 180 degree thermostat and modified the T housing and installed it on my car--just 2 days ago. Quite a difference. I sealed the by pass system. To my surprise it really did not make much difference in warm up at all.
Using this type of thermostat removes much of the coolant restiction that even a fully opened oem one causes.
I think we have some inadequtre coolant flow at idle and low rpm operation. See my other thread on the EWP.
My coolant (regular antifreeze 50/50) is now running at 160-175 (this thermostat has 3 holes in it) on the open road with ambients in the 70's. In town 180-185.
Oil temps are affected a little. Mine now are 180-190 range corrected whereas before they were 200-210F
I like it.