Today I re-adjusted all three belts. The AC and SC were pretty loose after almost 500 miles.

Cam game some semi-syntethic 15w40 for after my 1000 miles break in oil change. He is been testing it and now highly recommending it.

 

Yep Rick and Paul are highly recommending synthetic oil for the street driven rotary now.
It is totally for engine oil temperature reasons. I have started using it myself.

I forgot about all that alligator skinning bracing you have under your car dude!

Yall should look at the electric water pump thread I have started. Some good discussions. I am even thinking about reverse cooling.
How crazy is that? hehe.
OD

 

I have been eyeing this one

23 gallons a minute, but I would need a plate for the OEM water pump location.
The down side is, if the pump ever fails to run while driving...

 

thats the one that drag racers use for strip only. I dont think its enough flow for street use?
Mezeire makes some really good remote mount pumps that flow 55 gpm and a bunch of big block boys use them. Those would be the ones I would look at and then use the craig davis controller.

 

hi !

Sorry for that.
when I said Pettit guys I didn't mean you guys of the forum.
In fact you where the only one who helped me !

I'll change the vacuum lines and then I'll think about putting the car container to the US and do something HUGE (20BTT) by professionnal (not DIY :D )

waiting for this.... money lol

 

Now THATS a plan!
OD

 

Any thought into adding 1 or 2 heat exchangers to the I/C?

 

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/crxofdeath.jpg
thoughts?


Well if it is going to happen it is going to happen to me.
Have had the car up and running for about 2 wks now right?

Well not anymore.





intercooler has developed a leak--noticed water dripping under the car tonight. leaks when I turn the pump on---engine not running. Water coming out the rear bottom of the sc. This has to have just started, as my intercooler water level has only gone down maybe 1 inch in that big ole tank of mine. Hoses are fine.
Pay to play right?
From what I understand these things cant be fixed.
There goes my NASA we in march at road atlanta.
Any suggestions?
OD

 

Great Scott OD!!! If it wasn't for bad luck.

 

Tell me about it. I dont know who i have pissed off........but someone has put a curse on me?
Anyone have any good lucky charms, mojo bags, a good friend gypsy----Heck I will take a prayer--anything at this point.
I do persevere--dont I.
That 2011 Mustang GT is starting to look even better at this point.
OD

 

Shouldn't be that bad OD. Pull the blower and remove your I/C tank. Check if you have any corossion in your core. Might just be a pinhole in a weld. If the core internals look poor your gona need a new tank and start using a better fluid, not some crap mixed in someones garage. Ill never use anything other then engine ice in mine.

 

Heck- I only use distilled water with a little antifreeze for the cold weather.

Yep plan on pulling it tonight. You know I have never had it apart before--no telling what I may find? Can I port the intake side of the SC?
I wonder if my upgraded pump has had anything to do with it ?
I have to remind myself that it is just a car, a mechaical thing. If something is going to give then its going to give--luck, gypsy's mojo's really doesnt have anything to do with it

You know while I am at it--what is a safe range of post blower intake temp? I mean since the tune is using the maf/it sensor does post blower temps really matter as far as safety is concerned?

Oh Moon--that cd is going out to you tomorrow.
od

 

Keep in mind you have 2 different metals in the I/C system. A little bit of anti freeze isnt going to keep corrosion down. Yes you may be using distiled water but that may not be enough. Im sure if you put a piece of metal in a bottle of distiled water its still going to corode a little, it may take time but its been what 3 or 4 years.
I just got my I/C tank back from the welder, heres a pic.

 

True.

I like that low profile design. That is looking good.
OD

 

UGGGHHHHH GUYS!?@!
If yall havent taken your sc/intercooler/apart in a while---you may want too.
daymnnn. Took 2 cans of carb cleaner and about 25 gallons of water to clean the intercooler.
No more water meth before the SC for me --maybe on the track but no where else. residue everywhere. Also oily crap blowback stuff everywhere.
I cant find a leak--i will get a pressure tester tomorrow and recheck
I didnt think any kind of greasy tacky stuff was suppose to be on the rotors themselves? Its tacky to touch and red/orange colored---over rotors, casing--everything. Is that suppose to be there?
That little leak I had was a blessing in disguise--for rizzle--whatever that means.
If no one knows about the stuff on the lobes etc-- guess i will call Cam tomorrow. SC rotors are touchy and I do not want to remove anything without knowing

 

Then stop using that red juice meth stuff. I did a long time ago cuz the same issues you stated above. I used VP M-5 and everything inside was clean as a whistle when I took the blower out during the rebuilt process. Besides, a 5 gal pail of M-5 will run you @ $40 and mixing it 75 water to 25 meth (75/25) will last you a long time plus save you $$$$$.

 

good advice. but why isnt it on the post blower side?
od

 

Drive one on the track before you ever go there, after 1 or 2 good corners you will be crying for an old low compression 6 spd auto rx8 my friend.

I will post a short video and you can make up your own mind bro

 

Yep - been running Idemitsu 20W-50 full synthetic in my Engman engine.

 

I'm running Castrol Full Synthetic 20w50 with the new motor.

 

I brought home a couple jugs too? He wouldn't tell me who made the stuff though. Any ideas?

 

Is there a point of porting the blower air exit? I know it has to be ported without touching the internal part of the case or you can screw up the rotor seal but i wondered since i had it apart anyway if it was worth doing?
The intake side of the blower is not as open as I thought it would be?
I think my pre blower w/m accumilation was due to 2 things:
1- that 90 degree turn on the sc inlet side
2- trying to get through the intercooler at times without boost? In the summer I had it set at less than .3V at times.
I may switch to map type activation on my controller?
thoughts?

Guys even after the weather has warmed up, switched to synthetic oil, taking longer trips etc I was still getting condensation in my oil. You know what I did?
Took the dipstick out and placed a breather tube over it. When i need to check the oil I just remove it (it just slips over the dipstick snuggly) use the dipstick and then replace the breather tube. Now I already had a breather on top of my oil cap.
You know what surprised me?
I picked up about another inch of vacuum at idle. I now idle at about 21.
I dont really know why? you would think the breather on the oil cap would be enough (and its brand new) for me, but I guess its not?
this w/e , if i have time , i am going to hook up a vac/boost gauge to my dipstick and see what happens.

 

Have you pressure tested the I/C tank yet?
Also with the water/meth, the more and more I think about it the less I want to run the stuff. Even the stuff mixed with oil. Think about it, how many motors have been apart that have had seriously worn out apex seals. I think that its directly related to the meth. Its steam cleaning your engine and that includes removing oil from your housings and apex seals. It may also be the reason you have so much condensation. If I decide to run the stuff its only going to be small amounts but I'm even hesitant on that.

 

i pressure tested it with a water hose! No leaks in the intercooler but there was one on the outlet pipe that had some rough stuff causing the hose not to seal well. Since its a pressureless system I didnt add a hose clamp to it when I installed (it fit pretty tight). My mistake.
But all in all it was a blessing, as I sure had some serious cleaning to do.

I will not run w/m pre blower/intercooler anymore.
As for post blower i have never seen deposits or buildup and heck my engines havent lasted long enough to wear an apex seal anyway!
Cam says he has seen rust in engines that were shut down without turing the spray off.
I will probably run it post blower only and on track only. Paying much more attention to what gas i put in. Race gas at the tracks I go too are not that great either.

na-- my oil condensation now-- has been with the w/m never activated. Mybe the seal of the dipstick is not sealing well?

 

He didn't tell me either but gave me a jug for after the break in. I'm looking at the new castrol semi synthetic 15w40. According to castrol it is a low ash oil and formulated to run on trucks for up to 30k before oil changes. Regardless, I change my oil after every road race with an OEM filter.