are you running the oem pump?

 

frustrated by Petti guys that can not be of any help...should have bought a turbo

 

you mean shouldn't have FI'd.

 

Dude--- you are in another country and we have tried to be of help. It is very difficult to tell another person how to fix their car that is having complex issues over the internet.
I know you are extremely fustrated--but dont take it out on us.
I for one do not know what is wrong with your car.

 

Yes I am. It is about 2 years old. Took out and cleaned before the engine came back from Pettit. Going to monitor the pressure very close after break in and will decide if to go with the walbro. Thus far, I haven't had any issues with this or the older oem pumps.

 

Juan. Do ya have a link for that?

 

Fuel gauge??? Just go to ebay and search for "digital fuel pressure gauge". Some are in the $70~$90 range. You will need an inline adapter to screw the sender. I purchased one a while back for @ $50.

 

Juan, what's your vac looking like at idle?

 

I am guessing about 12 to 14 at idle or cruise and 24 to 28 if decelerating in gear.

/we have the same porter...

 

I went with an AN-6 line, that made the fuel pressure sensor connection easy.

 

@ 16

I'll shoot a video of the gauges tomorrow while driving so you can see the numbers. Keep in mind that gauges can put out different readings depending of the brand and how well calibrated.

 

if you are going to continue to track man--go ahead and do the fuel pump swap. either the 09 model( i like the design of this one) or install the walbro. Do the swap before the final tune.
You may also want to do the fuel pump resistor bypass so that it operates on high speed all the time. It does not hurt the life of the pump--just makes it a little more noisy. its all about balancing the tanks and there is a teenie bit of a pressure change when the pump swaps over to the oem high mode.
OD

 

is 09 a straight swap?

 

I was just curious because of the difference I saw after the rebuild. My idle vac on the original engine was about 22. When I let up on the gas to shift, it would usually drop to about 24. After Cam's rebuild, my idle vac is at 17, but it still drops to 24 when I shift.

 

09 fuel pump is basiccally a drop in--you have to change out one connector and adapt the venturi tube (the one that goes to the other side of the tank) to the pump because the 09 has a larger tube. Then just drop it in. 20 minuets of work to do it?
I much prefer the 09 unit. The assembly is designed for the car, the cup, the fuel pressure regulator, the denso pump etc. There is nothing wrong with a Walbro mod--it works well, but IMHO it is bandaiding a poorly designed unit.
Been running mine now for about 2 yrs---no problems whatsoever. I can still run to below 1/4 of a tank on track if I want too. I try not to do that!

Vacuum readings are normal for a ported engine---right?

TIME FOR A 2.1 BLOWER?!?!?
I am wondering if yall may end up having to scale the maf?

 

From what I understand the 2.1 has a slightly big footprint. Our intake MAF pipe elbow is already as close to the firewall as you want it, I really dont think it will fit unless you change the entire layout regarding intake aftercooler.

 

If ya don't show your pics, ya can't have any pudding

 

lol!

Guys what do yall thing about the oil pan venting?
Since we have a 90 degree turn in the oil filler tube and air doesnt like to make turns, is it enough to just place a vent on the oil cap?
If vacumn is needed then how are yall hooking up a catch can?
The way I have mine makes it pretty crowed.
OD

 

The 2.0/2.1 liter blower output is the same position, the inter-cooler position would not change.

The intake for the blower moves 3 cm. back on the bigger blower, the intake/throttle body bolt to the inter-cooler would need to move.

 

Drove to Pettit yesterday after work. Cam took a look at the engine bay and my mods. He replied “nice”. Thus far 479 miles and it runs strong while keeping it under 5k rpm. Cam suggested to run it up 7k rpm just on second gear from time to time. I did this morning and the rear tires came loose.

Woot!!!

Can wait till after the break in to start driving it hard and under boost.

BTW, here is the vid from my gauges. Ambient temp 55F. You are gonna have to turn your head sideways. Anyway, top gauge or left (depending if you are turning your head) is the engine oil temp from the oil pan (that is the temp after the oil goes thru the engine, next is the vacuum/boost gauge (it idles 18~17 now and it used to idle 16~15 before the engine rebuild/ported) and the last one is the fuel pressure gauge. Gauges below the radio (ashtray) are left to right. Air intake temp after blower, AEM AFR gauge and last engine coolant temp with the sensor located just before the coolant reservoir.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YQEJFUOYS0
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Nice man!

 

Seafoam and plugs for me tomorrow...

 

Bout had an epileptic seizure watching that

 

Galan---you crack me up dude!

Myself---dang you Juan now i have to wear a soft foam neck brace for 2 days!

Nice though--very smooth.
Is that your trans making that whirring sound?
I forgot to ask if Cam saw any front bearing wear on your old engine?

Nice FP gauge--what kind of adaptor did you use to hook it up?
Also did you find an oil plug with the npt hole to put an oil temp sensor in it, or did you wield a bung in it?
I am getting 175 180F at the oil filter after its fully warmed?
I need to take my gauges out of the ash tray and do what you have done on the column thing. The ones on my dash are easily visible but the ones on the ashtray--you have to take your eyes off the road to look at them.
Is Cam doing another custom tune for you?
Your injector set up--would that be too much for the small pulley engine?

 

Not as bad as when I stare at a florescent light bulb while hooked to a dimmer switch as part of my falling to sleep therapy.