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Pettit Super Charger Owners

Old Jan 16, 2011 | 06:21 AM
  #8351  
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Originally Posted by marsredr100
The bad:

Well the supposed oil leak from the greddy oil pan turn out to be a small leak from the engine. The leak is located right along (top part) of the spark plug side of the engine between the front housing and the front rotor housing. It leaks about one drop every minute while at idle and I noticed the leak since October.

According to Cam is either oil coming out of a known porous area around the dowel (defect from early renesis and mine is an early 2004 model) or a crack in the front housing. Either way, we won’t know until engine teardown. Other than that the engine runs great.

Engine will be pull tomorrow and at Cam’s on Monday for teardown.

The good:

Engine will be ported and rotors will be machined to accept 3mm apex seals.

BTW, no, no, no, no, no, no lower compression rotors will be used. No, no, no, no, super-duper apex will be used other that FD oem apex seals. No, no, no, no, no other modifications will be made.
Sorry to hear about the leak.
Porting makes it fun to drive, your boost max PSI will be slightly lower, but power will go up.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:11 AM
  #8352  
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Sorry to hear this Juan. Glad you are in a proactive mode and not a recovery mode though.
3 mm seals? Can I ask why?
I like what I have read about the bendy apex seals. But I dont know anyone with 1st hand experience.
Is Cam doing his exhaust port magic to help cool that area?
Since you are porting, how about cleaning up the inside of the LIM? Remove the Jet Air stuff, seal up the VDI(it does leak from runner to runner), lots of casting marks can be removed etc.
OD
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 11:36 AM
  #8353  
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Originally Posted by marsredr100
According to Cam is either oil coming out of a known porous area around the dowel (defect from early renesis and mine is an early 2004 model)
No such "known" defect.
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 02:18 PM
  #8354  
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Originally Posted by marsredr100
The bad:

Well the supposed oil leak from the greddy oil pan turn out to be a small leak from the engine. The leak is located right along (top part) of the spark plug side of the engine between the front housing and the front rotor housing. It leaks about one drop every minute while at idle and I noticed the leak since October.

According to Cam is either oil coming out of a known porous area around the dowel (defect from early renesis and mine is an early 2004 model) or a crack in the front housing. Either way, we won’t know until engine teardown. Other than that the engine runs great.
Been there , cracked that .

Front iron is weak around the dowell area . We managed to fix the oil leak WITHOUT pulling the engine apart with a cunning bypass system . Believe it ..........................or not .
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 03:38 PM
  #8355  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
Front iron is weak around the dowell area .
That, conversely, is a known defect.
However, it is easily mitigated in a fresh build.
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #8356  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
3 mm seals? Can I ask why?

2mm seal lack surface area for FI applications.

Is Cam doing his exhaust port magic to help cool that area?

Yes and some others too all around the engine. He know I road race the car first hand so the royal treatment in the works.

Since you are porting, how about cleaning up the inside of the LIM? Remove the Jet Air stuff, seal up the VDI(it does leak from runner to runner), lots of casting marks can be removed etc.

Done a while back.

OD
After teardown...broken front apex with minimal damage to the rotor housing. Big surprise since the engine was running great..even at idle. However, some grooves in center of housing due to lack of lubrication. Crack on front upper dowel (hence my oil leak). Rear housing questionable due to exhaust port heat swealling (very noticeable on corner seals). Deciding if to going back to oem exhaust manifold or removing the header heat wrap material. Rotors ok, middle housing ok, rear rotor housing ok

Cam recommends switch to 15W40 oil and Protek-R 1oz per gallon of fuel mix.
Attached Thumbnails Pettit Super Charger Owners-100_1068.jpg   Pettit Super Charger Owners-100_1070.jpg   Pettit Super Charger Owners-100_1072.jpg   Pettit Super Charger Owners-100_1075.jpg   Pettit Super Charger Owners-100_1084.jpg  


Last edited by marsredr100; Jan 17, 2011 at 10:09 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 10:53 PM
  #8357  
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You are confusing rotor housings with the irons, unless you have a 3 rotor.. lolz

Originally Posted by marsredr100
...Rotors ok, middle housing ok, rear rotor housing ok

Last edited by Nemesis8; Jan 17, 2011 at 10:56 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:26 AM
  #8358  
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Originally Posted by marsredr100
2mm seal lack surface area for FI applications.
2mm and 3mm seals have the same surface area.

Originally Posted by marsredr100
Cam recommends switch to 15W40 oil and Protek-R 1oz per gallon of fuel mix.
15w40 is too heavy on cold-starts.
10w50 or, if you want to spend the money, 5w50.
Though, bother are not really gonna do anything for you unless you are seriously over-heating the motor.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:13 AM
  #8359  
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Originally Posted by marsredr100

Engine will be ported and rotors will be machined to accept 3mm apex seals.

BTW, no, no, no, no, no, no lower compression rotors will be used. No, no, no, no, super-duper apex will be used other that FD oem apex seals. No, no, no, no, no other modifications will be made.
3MM OEM FD Apex Seals don't exist. What exactly were you planning on using? A GSL-SE apex seal? That's the last 3MM Apex seal Mazda made, and that was back in '85.

Last edited by hornbm; Jan 18, 2011 at 01:16 AM.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 05:09 AM
  #8360  
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Originally Posted by Nemesis8
You are confusing rotor housings with the irons, unless you have a 3 rotor.. lolz
Well I don’t know about your car but mine has a renensis 13B and according to mazda parts description it is call as noted below: (from front to rear)

- Front Housing
- Front Rotor Housing
- Intermediate Housing
- Rear Rotor Housing
- Rear Housing

BTW, what the heck is an iron and why do you have one on your engine?
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #8361  
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Originally Posted by hornbm
3MM OEM FD Apex Seals don't exist. What exactly were you planning on using? A GSL-SE apex seal? That's the last 3MM Apex seal Mazda made, and that was back in '85.
I stand corrected. Will be using 2MM OEM FD Apex Seals and corrected on my previous post. Thanks
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:46 AM
  #8362  
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
2mm and 3mm seals have the same surface area.
Not if you measure depth wise.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:59 PM
  #8363  
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Originally Posted by marsredr100
Not if you measure depth wise.
Depth doesn't matter - the same amount of seal is exposed.
As long as the spring height is in spec, all a "taller" seal does for you is effectively lower your mass-constrained rev-limit.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:07 PM
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It seems unusual for the seal to break that way . All the breakages I've heard about so far happen at the tapered end of the seal . Also : lucky it went that way and did not end up flying around your engine gouging and destroying one side completely .


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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #8365  
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The last pair of apex seals I destroyed broke in the middle like this.

However, it was due to a bearing failure/e-shaft warping, not a detonation event.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 03:46 PM
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I want to know why that hand is so clean---aint you a working man?
Stay away from 9K --aint nothing but trouble. Like this ole country girl I used to know and my daddy warned me about--but did I listen---nooooo!

Sorry to hear this Juan. Back to oem exhaust manifold? Why is that?
Water meth didnt help the egt's?
OD
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 08:28 PM
  #8367  
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Originally Posted by marsredr100
I stand corrected. Will be using 2MM OEM FD Apex Seals and corrected on my previous post. Thanks
good choice, I went with the same.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:05 PM
  #8368  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
I want to know why that hand is so clean---aint you a working man?

Not mine, my son's hand. Now you know who does the dirty work.

Stay away from 9K --aint nothing but trouble. Like this ole country girl I used to know and my daddy warned me about--but did I listen---nooooo!

I know plus no dynos too.

Sorry to hear this Juan. Back to oem exhaust manifold? Why is that?
Water meth didnt help the egt's?
OD
Going with header without wrap and I drove about 5k before I installed the meth. Anyway, just looking forward a rebuilt ported engine in the near future.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 05:24 AM
  #8369  
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Juan, those rotor housings look to be in pretty good shap around the plug holes - no visible evidence of seals floating. Am I right, and if so, what do you credit that to?
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 08:41 AM
  #8370  
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keeping temps under control and keeping the internals clean? Juan runs water meth which helps with that.
OD
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #8371  
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As I'm going thru all my engine parts and components while the engine is at Pettit I discovered that there was a leak on my bypass valve. The upper o-ring (the one located inside the screw cap was not sealing thus when applying vacuum the inside plunger did not stayed up. I'm running a soft spring at the moment. New o-ring and some tread sealer took care of the problem.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 11:04 PM
  #8372  
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Originally Posted by marsredr100
As I'm going thru all my engine parts and components while the engine is at Pettit I discovered that there was a leak on my bypass valve. The upper o-ring (the one located inside the screw cap was not sealing thus when applying vacuum the inside plunger did not stayed up. I'm running a soft spring at the moment. New o-ring and some tread sealer took care of the problem.
how could you tell?
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 04:51 AM
  #8373  
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Originally Posted by dondo
how could you tell?
Unplug the bypass valve 1/4 inch vacuum hose and insert another 1/4 inch vacuum hose with enough length for you to hook up a hand held vacuum pump or just suck on it and check if it holds vacuum. If it does good if not then there is a leak.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 08:43 AM
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yea-- the turbo x bypass valve i ran for a while would have a leak like that--unless I kept it real clean.
Overtime you will also get deposit buildup in those things. its not an install and forget item.
Juan are you going to clean up the lim--i swear it makes a difference. Have you also bored your TB--that helps a little in midrange also---i swear it!
Course now please consider that I am just an idiot with a few tools and a book.
OD
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:32 AM
  #8375  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
Juan are you going to clean up the lim--i swear it makes a difference.

Working on it.

Have you also bored your TB--that helps a little in midrange also---i swear it!

Dun a while back to include the SC inlet.

Course now please consider that I am just an idiot with a few tools and a book.
OD
I didn't know that you could read, awesome.
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