That's sort of what I figured... The available sizes for the foam seem rather limited. No prob. Looks like one of the cut-to-size kits will do the trick.

 

well after more data and some experimentation---i found out what some others already know and tried to tell me. The airfilter has to go outside the engine bay to get good intake temps
SO mazda speed or aem type here I come. Coarse it has to be home built because i aint paying over 300 for some pipe.
OD

 

Well I did not want to say anything cuz of where I live and the temps I see.......PM Ray as he did mine and can tell you what to get and where to get it.......I would not say cheap way just less expensive than the alternative. It works...... Keep it above the bumper support bar as temps from below are too high.

 

intakehoses.com

 

ok good thing to know, but an enclosed air filter (BMC or green Twister) may be as good ?!

 

I dont know those?
I am thinking about the aem positioned right outside the engine bay
straight pipe--- no bends.

With several people now going over the 300rwp mark---what are yall doing about the ignition?
Are yall running colder plugs for dd?
Reset dwell with aftermarket coils? Aftermarket coils with no dwell adjustment will not increase the spark energy----right?
OD
OD

 

MSD ignition
stock plugs seem to work better.
I do not know about dwell, never changed it.

 

K&N Panel Filter in Standard "Cold Air Intake" for me.

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

green is a famous air filter in rally, in europe it is more use then k&n :


BMC create this Carbone Air Filter


I'm looking forward to try one of those later

 

those look cool---dont change the maf pipe though.
we have to be careful of changing the air supply unless you are into tuning.
OD

 

hymlee what kind of intake air temps are you getting?
Trying to make the s.c. last longer--course i do spray w/m before the s.c. when intake temps get high. That protects it but i want cool air also.
never mind i just remembered you have that big asre air intercooler mate!

By the way---installed the aem filter last night --extended the intake so that the filter is butt up agaisnt the engine bay inlet hole thing. Temps measured at the intake (between filter and the bottom of the tray is only about 3-4 degrees above ambient. it does heat soak when you are not moving , but it does cool off once you start again.
The filter would not fit outside the engine bay.

a/f's actually change in a smoother transistion now????
I will never run a K&N again.

 

been searching, and not sure if this has come up. but has anyone replaced the tiny intercoolers with a bigger one?

like a intercooler for a turbo?

i know air heats up when compressed

 

Our intercooler system is an air to water system not air to air,,,
Hymee however runs an air to air on his system,,,

 

My car is at the "paint job"...
I am installing new bumper (for air flow) + new hood (not seibon).
I'll try this way to let the heat get outside the engine bay.

2010 objective : w/m

 

thank you so much.

i've never like air to water, except for like a dedicated drag car.

 

do not depend totally on any intercooler to control the charge temps. get a w/m kit for that.
a/a, a/w doesnt matter. both do what they are designed to do. but w/m is really needed......imho
OD

 

New MAF readings, I need a tune still...

 

wait a minute Where does the apv open?
this is at 7.9K????
OK festus---give it up?
How do you get such straight sensor lines--mine always has little jiggly line?

 

LOL, I have no idea, I just make the logs with the dongle.
Which lines?
If you mean the A/F straight line at 11.2, that is bogus, the logs won't go that low.
I still need to cut some fuel, this is running at 10.2 A/F for those AF ratios logged at what appears to be 11.2.


PS: see later post from 01-18-2010, 03:19 PM

 

are you going to dyno soon? All excited here!!
OD

 

maybe a fuel pressure regulator could help ?!

What I do not understand is that I run lean BUT my car smells fuel like if it were rich
I'll order a glowshift wideband gauge

 

what do you mean "lean"
OD

 

A real fuel system with a return line to the tank from a pressure regulator would help...

PS about running boosted under load:
low A/F numbers like 10.2 are way rich and foul plugs, 11.5-12 is ideal, over 12 is asking to instantly remove your Apex seals the hard way.

 

Cam is the man....

I have approval to tell....
Low compression rotors in the Renesis seems to be working.
Cam still will not call it proven, but he said it can be told now.
I have 9 to 1 rotors from an FD with the Renesis style gas control rings.
Cam feels that until he can see the state of the used parts, it's not proven.

But it isn't breaking yet....

 

oh boy---talk about peak power boost-- you may have to upgrade that SC dude and or maf scaling!!??

I d/ced my purge valve and the car runs better especially recovering from boost to idle.