thats awesome Rote, Cam offered to do the same thing for me, but when I needed my new engine, Mazda refused to send out the new one then install,,,

Good Luck, Ive been talking to Cam about something different entirely which will have to wait for all the piece to assemble, but hes all for it,,,
hint hint think 5 to 1 header,,,,

 

I've got a CEL P0171 system too lean since I install the S/C
I add a new fuel pump (255lph), but nothing change.

When I drive, the 02 sensor is not lean but at iddle or when I stop accelerating, it goes full lean !!

I need a wide band gauge :s

but I aws wondering if the probleme does not come form my air filter (not enought air)

 

FYI

Cam has also been machining Renesis rotors to work with FD apex seals. A few months back I lost compression on the front rotor due to a broken apex seal (pics will be coming soon). We took that motor apart and learned that the surviving apex seals had very little wear (which proves premixing and frequent oil changes really helps). I think it was caused by some bad detonation I had early this past summer (which is what ultimately led me to swap my Yukon ignition coils back in July for the MSD coils) under high boost.

Cam built me a typical street-ported Pettit engine with these new machined rotors. 1500 miles later the car is running stronger than ever.

Lots of new and interesting R&D going on at Pettit right now.

 

Sorry to hear that you lost an engine Bastage - join the club LOL .
Are those 2mm 1 piece seals ?

 

haha yeah I was a little bummed initially, but I'm really happy about it now. It was fun pulling the motor out.

Yeah, supposedly they're 60% stronger than the Renesis seals. We'll see how long they can handle 12psi.

 

good to know. Glad it worked for ya.
also good about the wear.
You do have w/m dont ya? Cant remember.
how was the front stationary bearing?
with 12 psi and a good tune i bet you are pulling strong.

Oh by the way--i got rid of my yukons/ls2 also. running oem with a twin fire plug and play. like it much better!
OD

 

Less than 20 thousandths of an inch of wear after ~43,000 miles (25000 of them boosted)

Cam says he's seen N/A RX-8 motors with only 18,000 miles with a lot more wear than that. Front bearing was good. Front rotor and housing were TOAST. I was coming off of a road into a parking lot when it died. The road was under construction so the transition into the parking lot included a 1/2 inch drop. I went over this drop at about 3mph and the car immediately shuddered and died (the vibration caused the cracked seal to finally come loose). I have a good picture of the rotor face with a nice tattoo of where the seal made it's first impact. It was running great before it died (even with the cracked seal). I wish it had given me a clue beforehand so I could have salvaged the rotor and the housing, but oh well.

I have been running W/M since June of 2008, btw.

 

love watching our community grow. keep it up guys, want to be a part of the sc club!

 

come on an join up!
Aint that a bitch--that bump caused the seal to come loose!
I have seen a housing (mine) like you say--mine was so bad --like yours -- it actually ruined the rotor too.
Good news on the rest of it
i dont know why i couldnt remember you were already running w/m.
How the heck are you getting 12psi of boost? At best I am getting 10 at 8K.

I have figured out and done a cold air vent that actually works.
Involves notching the front bumper/cutting out some of the sealed parts of the grille and doing a slight redirection in the airflow. Works really good, keeps the filter in the engine bay and no outward mods apparent.
OD

 

Bigger crank pulley.... I can actually get 13 for a little while if I go all the way to redline...

pictures of the cold air vent?

 

Make your own pulley or did Cam do it for you?

 

you could always machine a samller SC pulley too, I dont know the ratio, but Cam could probably give you some specs on it, the Larger Crank pulley is getting pretty big already as is,,,

 

Already working on it - just checking to see if you did your own.

 

nah I have Cams,,,
I havent installed it yet, my new engine only has 800 miles on it, once I hit a couple thousand or so its going on,,,

 

Phil----with a bigger pulley you will need to upgrade your injectors if you havent already?
how much boost are you running now? That 4 port is probably doing 12 psi already?
At some point the s.c. itself will need upsizing -- i have Cam's bigger pulley on and I cant get to 12psi. Mafs reading are great getting over 330 at 8K and ambient temps at low 90.
Removing the purge valve really did help my recovery from full throttle to idle. I was surprised.

Cant take pictures of my cai design without removing the front clip. Just imaginge that the front bumper support for abount 8"'s has been turned into a ski slope channeling air to the enlarged airbox opening. Then imagine the intake being long enough to touch that opening and THEN imagine the top two rows of the plastic grill having the little spaces being open and then you have it!!
Simple and effective and it also helps cool the w/m tank!
Ambient this a.m was 64 F, temp on the botton side of the airfilter was 66F while doing 35mph----cooooool!
We will see about this summer.
OD

 

Ray has come up with an idea on the pulley and we will be trying that soon.

 

I am really looking forward to seeing how that pans out.

 

As I am...I'm gonna get 300 whp and still have a daily drivable AT four port. I only need 40 more hp.

 

how many # of boost will you need for another 40hp?
Or are you trying to do more motor--some way?
Watching with great interest. You do it old man
OD

 

Hoping to try it first with consistent boost and not the variable kind of boost that seems prevalent. We will see if consistent boost is possible this weekend.

 

Hey guys. I purchased a fuel pump removal tool from NAPA and have had no luck with it. Is there some trick that I am not aware of?? Do i need to move the two tabs that are located around the base of the ring?? My car has been down for a while and due to wrecking my dd I am trying to get the 8 back on the road.

-Yambo

 

Hey Morkus,,,
When I did mine I bought the oe hardware that needs to be cranked open just in case something broke I had spare pieces to put in place, you may just want to buy some of those and not worry about breaking them when takeing the furel pump apart,

Part numbers and names_
F151-42-A15B Thread Ring $50.93
F151-42-A14A Union Nut $44.78
F151-42-A61 Fuel Gasket $56.36

 

I have another complete pump assembly which i'm going to install. Would I still need a new union nut and fuel gasket?

Also, is there a way to test if the pump in operational without cranking the car and before re-installing the covers and back seat??

-Yambo

 

I also purchased one and did not have any luck with it - just made my own and it worked fine. Only item that I found that should be changed is the o ring and it is available at Ace hardware.

Let me know if you find a way to do the test

 

The only thing I can think of is the noise it makes when you turn on the power, should be a high pitched whine preceeded by a double click and a low(almost inaudible) whirl...
Other than that