Pettit Super Charger Owners
/\ agree about the lower redline - I rarely go over 8000 (with turbo) . Like I said in your other thread - tune your pulley for max SC output at 8000 and lower your redline to that and you will get better results all round ...
The APV's however do provide much more flow in the 6500 and above range , and seeing as you still spend a lot of your time above 6500 you still need them .
The APV's however do provide much more flow in the 6500 and above range , and seeing as you still spend a lot of your time above 6500 you still need them .
Rotary engine addict
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Guadeloupe (FWI)
Well, stop driving your car. You need to do some trouble shooting, look at your data. Im busy moving so ill point you in the rite direction, there is the ever preasant Cat problem, how many miles on car???cat?? then its off to the fuel pump (Check filter). Check everything you did and dont keep driving your car till you find the problem, you will now if its the problem, also check you OMP line!!!!
I'll check the fuel filter ... what is OMP
?I think it is a fuel probleme because it smells a lot when it is parked !
To be honest, since the flash (before I install every thing), my car was unable to remain on the idle position... I think an error might have occured...
My efidude stopped working after I flash the car... so I am waiting the new one to logg some data... but think it might comes from the flash...is it possible ?
whines all the way home
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From: Towson/Baltimore, MD
/\ agree about the lower redline - I rarely go over 8000 (with turbo) . Like I said in your other thread - tune your pulley for max SC output at 8000 and lower your redline to that and you will get better results all round ...
The APV's however do provide much more flow in the 6500 and above range , and seeing as you still spend a lot of your time above 6500 you still need them .
The APV's however do provide much more flow in the 6500 and above range , and seeing as you still spend a lot of your time above 6500 you still need them .
7.5 K for me. Anything higher slows me down. + much easier on everything. 1.3 K difference between closed and open apv's doesnt sound like a lot?
JMK --your car will smell richer after the install. it has to have lower a/f's --so more gas smell.
what kind of a/f's are you seeing?
olddragger
JMK --your car will smell richer after the install. it has to have lower a/f's --so more gas smell.
what kind of a/f's are you seeing?
olddragger
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From: Guadeloupe (FWI)
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From: Boosted...
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From: Mesa, Arizona
The SC + I/C + UIM seems to kill low RPM air velocity and the injectors don't atomize as efficiently as stock anymore. It needs more fuel at the low MAF readings to compensate. The ECU reads lean because the fuel squirted didn't all combust and there is lots of O2 left over.
Brettus---beg to differ.. i spend more time from 4.7K to 6.7K.
Casual observation on track:
coming out of turn 9 at roebling road is = for me approx 106--108 mph in 5 gear. I cant come out in 4th as that is getting to close to the redline factor and it is not nearly as smooth of an acclearation. this turn opens to the main straight--almost 3/4 mile long maybe?
Now if i leave the car in 5th I notice a steady state of speed gain. If I short shift to 6th at approx 6.5 to 6.7 K then my rate of speed gain is noticibly faster--the numbers on the speedometer are going by at a faster rate---easy to tell the differance. if i wait to 7.5K to shift to 6th I have a slower entry speed approaching the turn at the end of the straight.
I am not slow and the MAF on my car is pulling 305 at 7.7K. But --i guess it is the torque that is pulling me faster in 6th? I dont know--but I do know its faster to short shift.
Guess this is one of those times that therory and real time results are different?
olddragger
Casual observation on track:
coming out of turn 9 at roebling road is = for me approx 106--108 mph in 5 gear. I cant come out in 4th as that is getting to close to the redline factor and it is not nearly as smooth of an acclearation. this turn opens to the main straight--almost 3/4 mile long maybe?
Now if i leave the car in 5th I notice a steady state of speed gain. If I short shift to 6th at approx 6.5 to 6.7 K then my rate of speed gain is noticibly faster--the numbers on the speedometer are going by at a faster rate---easy to tell the differance. if i wait to 7.5K to shift to 6th I have a slower entry speed approaching the turn at the end of the straight.
I am not slow and the MAF on my car is pulling 305 at 7.7K. But --i guess it is the torque that is pulling me faster in 6th? I dont know--but I do know its faster to short shift.
Guess this is one of those times that therory and real time results are different?
olddragger
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From: Guadeloupe (FWI)
but I did the re-flash like pettit told me...but what I said is that something might have happen because when I plug the efi programmer to my computer to "change his personnality into a logger"
the Efi stop working. so I sent it to pettit...and i am waiting for my new one... I parked my car in my house and keep waiting.
Yesterday I control the ose and everything looked good...
the only problem I have is the idle that does not exist...
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From: Boosted...
For now I did not do any fuel injection changes... will come soon
but I did the re-flash like pettit told me...but what I said is that something might have happen because when I plug the efi programmer to my computer to "change his personnality into a logger" the Efi stop working.
so I sent it to pettit...and i am waiting for my new one... I parked my car in my house and keep waiting.
Yesterday I control the ose and everything looked good...
the only problem I have is the idle that does not exist...
but I did the re-flash like pettit told me...but what I said is that something might have happen because when I plug the efi programmer to my computer to "change his personnality into a logger"
the Efi stop working. so I sent it to pettit...and i am waiting for my new one... I parked my car in my house and keep waiting.
Yesterday I control the ose and everything looked good...
the only problem I have is the idle that does not exist...
Ah, Your car is not yet flashed.
Do not start the car, wait for the correct flash from Pettit.
Please call Pettit as soon as possible (if you have not already done that), I am sure Cam will help you.
The reason your car will not idle is the stock Mazda flash does not take the blower into account at idle.
Driving the car in this condition causes severe engine damage, because of lean air fuel ratios under boost.
Pettit normally flashes the ECU before installing the blower.
Rotary engine addict
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Guadeloupe (FWI)
fellow rx8 guys at the track on this same day were hitting 220F with their coolant--some never learn--i have talked and talked and shown hard data. Still no one is interested. I just dont understand it. They will spend money on water pumps and thermostats (which only help a little ) but not this. Doesnt make sense.
the 09 pump basically needs 3 things to install:
1- the connector from the fuel level sending unit etc is a little different--so that has to be fixed--slight rewire--no prob
2- the tank venturi line has to be cut ( the 09 pump uses a bigger line and the connector will not fit) and fitted to the pump with submersible gas hose using just regular hose clamps. remember this line does not have a lot of pressure on it.
3- the entire pump assembly has to be rotated approx 90 degrees when it is installed so the fuel hose that goes to the injectors will line up ok and not have any binding (have to be careful with the venturi and wiring when you do this--its not a prob--just dont do it without watching these 2 things.
Once you get this kit on the car, get it dialed in, and you are comfortable running it without watching gauges a lot--you will be a force that any stock bodied daily driven car needs to watch for. You still wont pull ALL of them on the straight, but they will be surprised when they dont pull you SO much and when the braking and twisters come around--there you are--eating their ***!! Before --that pull away distance was too much to make up. .
olddragger
the 09 pump basically needs 3 things to install:
1- the connector from the fuel level sending unit etc is a little different--so that has to be fixed--slight rewire--no prob
2- the tank venturi line has to be cut ( the 09 pump uses a bigger line and the connector will not fit) and fitted to the pump with submersible gas hose using just regular hose clamps. remember this line does not have a lot of pressure on it.
3- the entire pump assembly has to be rotated approx 90 degrees when it is installed so the fuel hose that goes to the injectors will line up ok and not have any binding (have to be careful with the venturi and wiring when you do this--its not a prob--just dont do it without watching these 2 things.
Once you get this kit on the car, get it dialed in, and you are comfortable running it without watching gauges a lot--you will be a force that any stock bodied daily driven car needs to watch for. You still wont pull ALL of them on the straight, but they will be surprised when they dont pull you SO much and when the braking and twisters come around--there you are--eating their ***!! Before --that pull away distance was too much to make up. .
olddragger
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From: Guadeloupe (FWI)
Ah, Your car is not yet flashed.
Do not start the car, wait for the correct flash from Pettit.
Please call Pettit as soon as possible (if you have not already done that), I am sure Cam will help you.
The reason your car will not idle is the stock Mazda flash does not take the blower into account at idle.
Driving the car in this condition causes severe engine damage, because of lean air fuel ratios under boost.
Pettit normally flashes the ECU before installing the blower.
Do not start the car, wait for the correct flash from Pettit.
Please call Pettit as soon as possible (if you have not already done that), I am sure Cam will help you.
The reason your car will not idle is the stock Mazda flash does not take the blower into account at idle.
Driving the car in this condition causes severe engine damage, because of lean air fuel ratios under boost.
Pettit normally flashes the ECU before installing the blower.
I did drive the car, but I won't do it agin since I do not have the correct flash
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From: Maryland
Good, keep in mind if it dosnt idle somthing is wrong, dont drive it till it idles perfect then go from there. Guess you got a dud Dude, lol. Keep in mind everyone, never plug and unplug the dude till your car is off, take the key out to be sure.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,574
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From: Boosted...
Reading through your posts, it seems you changed the programmer to a logger; you need to program the ECU first, it should have came loaded with a flash and ready to go as a programmer.
Make sure the battery is fully charged or on a battery charger.
Turn the key to "on" (as far as it will go, without the start position)
Firmly plug the programmer into the ODB2 port.
"Wait the longest 2 minutes of your life"
You will see the programmer dongle LED turn red and keep flashing during the 2 minute programming.
Do not remove the dongle until the LED turns green again.
Remove the dongle after it turns green.
Turn the key off.
Start the car and you should have a CEL from the ECU being disconnected during the flash, remove the battery cables for a few minutes to clear the CEL.
Now turn the programmer to a logger; before you accidentally flash the ECU again some time.
Connect the battery and go drive.
Londons Yellow Peril
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,340
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From: North London
using the efidude can be tricky sometimes when transforming between logger and programmer. You need to make sure it is set up right.
Sometimes its best to change it to a logger , then to a programemr to make sure its inthe right mode. once its a programmer then load up the token and the flash. Then reflash, then return to logger.
If in doubt, bail out, transform to logger and try again. Also I found it best to load flashes manually rather than with the wizard, which seemed to get stuck and not load properly sometimes.
Sometimes its best to change it to a logger , then to a programemr to make sure its inthe right mode. once its a programmer then load up the token and the flash. Then reflash, then return to logger.
If in doubt, bail out, transform to logger and try again. Also I found it best to load flashes manually rather than with the wizard, which seemed to get stuck and not load properly sometimes.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Boosted...
My latest mod.
I always had leaks with the nylon methanol lines, here is my solution.
AN -6 to the pump, and AN -4 to the intake.
/Yeah, it's time to wire tie my stereo wires too.
AN -6 to the pump, and AN -4 to the intake.
/Yeah, it's time to wire tie my stereo wires too.
Last edited by Rote8; Oct 16, 2009 at 05:12 PM.
pretty but will those aluminum connectors get ate up by the methanol?
I have discovered we need a minimum of 52 sq inches of air filter. anyone know how many we have?
olddragger
I have discovered we need a minimum of 52 sq inches of air filter. anyone know how many we have?
olddragger
You should really use brass fittings..they won't corrode and leak like the aluminum ones...although if the anodization is intact they aren't that bad
I'm a bit concerned about you mounting that pump in the trunk though
If there is a leak..you will get a trunk full of methanol vapor very fast......and one spark and......well you get it.
There is a good spot to mount it under the floor behind the passenger wheel well.....
I'm a bit concerned about you mounting that pump in the trunk though
If there is a leak..you will get a trunk full of methanol vapor very fast......and one spark and......well you get it.There is a good spot to mount it under the floor behind the passenger wheel well.....
