Pettit Super Charger Owners
<Eddie Murphy voice>
It was the old banana in the tail pipe trick.
It was the old banana in the tail pipe trick.
Funny you should mention that.
I had the window open and there was a very, very strong odor of daiquiris in the air...
The question I now have to ask myself is: exactly how did you know that? I'll be needing to see your grocery receipts for the last two weeks, please
U-Stink-But-I-♥-U
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From: 12 o'clock on the Beltway.
I just gotta ask. When you hooked up the battery, did you turn the wheel lock-to-lock to recal the sps?
The DSC light can come on for a lot of reasons. That is the most common one, but there are others completely unrelated to anything in the driveline. For instance, unhooking the baro sensor will call up a dsc error.
The DSC light can come on for a lot of reasons. That is the most common one, but there are others completely unrelated to anything in the driveline. For instance, unhooking the baro sensor will call up a dsc error.
you know come to think of it he may not have even been in a "boost" mode?
light cruise at low rpm/load?
I think the dsc was on but I seem too remember that the car was driven--turned off and restarted so that probably reset the pcm/dsc.
OD
light cruise at low rpm/load?
I think the dsc was on but I seem too remember that the car was driven--turned off and restarted so that probably reset the pcm/dsc.
OD
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FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
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From: Sin City, Nevada
I can not offer anything not already suggested but am going to be very interested in the out come so be sure and post what is found. I don't have a cat so I am hoping it is a cat related problem.
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From: Mesa, Arizona
Try again.
DSC does not have anything to do with baro. I've disconnected my baro sensor before -- all I got was a CEL.
What, do you hypothesize, has the BARO sensor to do with DSC? (This should be interesting...)
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From: Maryland
Keep in mind when the intake flashed the buypass valve would have slamed shut raising the boost preasure even higher then the energy generated buy the flame. It was mentioned before that with a belt driven supercharger it wouldnt have had any place to go but out the coupler.
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FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
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From: Sin City, Nevada
Thread Starter
FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
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From: Sin City, Nevada
Water with a bottle of water weter is what I used. You are going to town on the install - how about some pics.
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From: Mesa, Arizona
I bet you're right, cause, they're like so similar and stuff. I mean, well, they're both colored black and all, how can Mazda expect people to know the difference. 
Just be careful like carbonRX8 and don't forget to keep that there BARO sensor connected, cause your stuff blows up if you don't. You need super duper clutched pulley supercharger to survive the malfunction you get from misbehaving BARO sensors, yo.
Water Wetter is mostly a fancy soap that keeps vapor bubbles small when coolant systems are operated near their boiling points. It will do about nothing beneficial on a small IC setup where temperatures are much below boiling. The lube and anti-corrosion additives may be of benefit though. I personally run straight distilled water with Prestone anti-corrosion additive.
Just be careful like carbonRX8 and don't forget to keep that there BARO sensor connected, cause your stuff blows up if you don't. You need super duper clutched pulley supercharger to survive the malfunction you get from misbehaving BARO sensors, yo.
I read Water Weter does nothing special. I read some engineering reports on it and it does nothing to help cooling. It's a gimick. I have to skiddadle right now, but when I get back tonight I'll try to dig up the paper
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From: Montreal,QC
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From: QLD .au
I don't think the 09 injectors are that big of a mismatch for this setup, especially with the larger pulley. I've beaten myself already thinking I didn't get the injectors in the rail properly, but dammit I triple checked them before, during, and after re-installing the fuel rail, and then rechecked them after I did the ECU room fuse/idle reset, and there were no leaks. None. The car idled perfectly, ran through the gears well, but when I got on the gas in 3rd at 6k, it fell flat on its face, owing, I thought, to the DSC being active. Then I see 20 degrees of timing retard with large TPS values and figure that's the DSC at work; trouble is, at those points, the lamba is stil within ranges, so fuel is still being delivered, but not burned completely. After I realized the DSC or something was holding it back, I didn't try to romp on it any more, just wanted to get a feel for how the car was running. Took a total of three miles for it to grind to a dead halt.
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From: Maryland
I cant say it enough CATS are bad, sorry Greg, I didnt mean kittys but it is a deffinat heat restriction causing uneeded stresses on your motor, more stress then I care to list. The less stuff you need to worrie about the better. Of corse im not telling you to modify any of your emissions stuff, you shouldnt buy law.
!!! The Truth About WaterWetter (R) !!!
So I mentioned earlier I would find the engineering paper on why WaterWetter by Red Line Oil is bad to use. I can't find it. Instead I'll substitute a couple of reviews and a really good chemical analysis that basically outlines the fact that WaterWetter causes build up in silicone and plastic tubing and corrodes metal, which was in the engineering evaluation. That paper also did a thermal evaluation on the product and declared it did increase water's thermal capacity and helped carry away heat from the engine. But it was a marginal (almost negligible) improvement. Where WatterWetter supposedly shines, according to that paper, is it helps reduce hot spots on cylinder heads. Well... we don't have those things in our car, and I would think thermal dissipation in a rotary engine is much more even due to the fluid movement of the combustion chamber. So the gains are negligible and the product has potential to corrode parts, seals, housings, and gunk up tubes. Hm. Pick your poison, I guess.
Links
Water Wetter Review
Chemical Analysis of WaterWetter
So I mentioned earlier I would find the engineering paper on why WaterWetter by Red Line Oil is bad to use. I can't find it. Instead I'll substitute a couple of reviews and a really good chemical analysis that basically outlines the fact that WaterWetter causes build up in silicone and plastic tubing and corrodes metal, which was in the engineering evaluation. That paper also did a thermal evaluation on the product and declared it did increase water's thermal capacity and helped carry away heat from the engine. But it was a marginal (almost negligible) improvement. Where WatterWetter supposedly shines, according to that paper, is it helps reduce hot spots on cylinder heads. Well... we don't have those things in our car, and I would think thermal dissipation in a rotary engine is much more even due to the fluid movement of the combustion chamber. So the gains are negligible and the product has potential to corrode parts, seals, housings, and gunk up tubes. Hm. Pick your poison, I guess.
Links
Water Wetter Review
Chemical Analysis of WaterWetter
Last edited by endowdly; Apr 28, 2009 at 11:17 PM. Reason: sp
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From: Boosted...