Hook vac pump to each of the chambers and verify that it holds vacuum.

 

Is that a valid test? Does something that is designed to hold in positive pressure and release it at a certain point automatically mean it will be able to hold negative pressure? Wouldn't it be akin to putting a submarine in space, or a space shuttle in deep ocean?

I am being serious, not trying to be a smart *** or anything. Just wondering if it really makes sense to test wastegates in that fashion.

 

Yes it is fine - we aren't talking about crush depths here - just a diaphram...PS engines have vac and boost... so it is relevant.

 

I know the engines have both vac and boost, but the wastegate never is under vacuum right? True we arent talking about crush level pressures, mainly I was just wondering if holding in pressure from the opposite end of the spectrum would somewhow damage internals or something. I never really took one apart so I didn't know if there was anything within that would be upset by vacuum. Maybe a seal or component that is meant to flex in one direction only or some nonsense like that.

Or am I wrong, and the wastegate IS under vacuum while the engine is under vacuum? Visualizing the pressures is confuddling me.

 

Yes it is - vacuum = boost in this case... as long as it holds pressure you are fine.

 

The only time the wastegate diaphragm is under vacuum is when you are cruising in vacuum.

If you are able to cruise with the wastegate not opening then its fine. I had wastegate to atmos so it was super easy to tell if it was leaky or not.

The test is that you want to make absolutely sure that the diaphragm will open under boost. Just get an air compressor hook it up to the side port, give it 9lbs of air (or whatever yours is set to) and watch it actuate. Listen for leaks or spray some soapy water on the piston. Thats all the test it needs.

No reason to replace the wastegate or BOV, just rebuild them. Metal is metal, manufacturer is irrelevant.

What you pay for in higher priced parts is quality control. As long as you do the QC yourself its kinda pointless.

 

The metal parts are fine - the issues were in the diaphrams and the clearances on the fittings.

 

Boost or vacuum is irrelevant, you are just applying a negative pressure to test it for ANY leaks.

 

exactly! they have already got the housings, not that big of a deal to lube, grind, or buy a new diaphragm

No reason to spend 3x as much when you can apply a little DIY

 

That mentality was what drove me to install the turbo kit myself. Why shell out installation fees? Especially since if something went wrong and I didn't know how to fix it, I'd have to pay more for other people to fix it. DIY is good stuff. Educational and whatnot

 

DIY is fine - as long as the time is worth it.... fixing the WG took all of 15 minutes; fixing that BOV on the other hand would have taken a lot longer... plus if we swap it to a piston BOV the respons time is better - and if we swapped it to a Synapse - low end power would be better and spool is faster - so for $300 bucks a win win.

 

what - how does that work ?

 

Thought we went over this already - the Synapse Syncronic BOV opens in vac allowing air to bypass the turbo and all the piping... on the MZR motor they gained like 40 hp.

 

we went over the fact that it bypassed air which is good at idle but for the life of me i can't see how that would add power and make the turbo spool faster ....

 

Less restriction to flow is better - always... that is why people get CAI and and K&N Filters etc.... so if you are making more power in vacuum - it will provide more exhaust which wil spool the turbo faster - plus you keep more of your low end grunt.

 

Alright so car starts by its self now and runs. I fixed the power steering prob, just messed with main harness on rack. I do have a minor oil leak i have to fix, and car wont rev past 4k. So gonna check my OMP tomorrow.
Also it smokes a lot. kind of mellows out but then comes back. Not sure what it is, the smoke its self is white.

 

Seriously Guys?

I am not sure how to better explain it....um, think shorter straw in your drink...

 

I got it now, I had to think a bit longer. You post too fast

 

understand about restriction etc . But i've noticed that with a turbo there is hardly ever vacuum on the turbo side of the throttle body . It is always under pressure from what i've observed . So under that scenario - how can air flow from vacuum (after the filter) to positive pressure before the throttle plate ?

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/SynapseEngineering

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxFFJ...e=channel_page

Enjoy.

 

those vids did not answer my question .
So you make less power if your BOV leaks - that makes sense .
What if your BOV does not leak - how does the synchronic make more power then ?

 

Look at the low end of the dyno - and the boost pressure.

It spooled up faster - and it had more low end grunt not related to the boost fall off from the leaky BOV.

 

This is good one too - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MU5Y6d9rh1k

I couldn't find the vacuum one - they musta took it down.

 

I can see it's a very good valve and that leaking air at idle is a good thing and that very fast response time when closing the throttle is a good thing .

But - I still can't see why it would spool up faster or make any more hp anywhere in the curve than any other properly functioning BOV .....

 

If it takes less load on the motor to achieve the same airflow - what are the benefits?

Hint - One of them is better gas mileage.