great to hear the turbo got installed! hope you'll fix the problem soon

 

I got the car back from the shop on Thursday after they clocked the center section of the turbo, no more banging of the oil return line on the frame! It wasn't cheap but it was worth it.

When the temps are in the high 40s the car just absolutely loves it, pulls very hard in 3rd gear.

I have been looking over my logs in greater detail recently and have noticed that before the P2s kick in sometimes I am hitting as much as 99% injector duty cycles. For peace of mind I am planning on upgrading to yellows as primaries and automatic blues as secondaries.

With the lower temps out I've also been having issues with low oil temps. They creep up fine when idling but as soon as I get moving at a decent pace they plummet. I tried blocking one oil cooler earlier today with a cutup piece of plastic from a folder and it helped a bit but they are still too low. I blocked off the 2nd cooler tonight and will monitor the temps, hopefully they can stay up once I am moving. My coolant temps have been consistent in the 180-195 range regardless of what I am doing.

 

have seen the same and ended up fitting yellow primaries as well . Did the trick nicely .

 

The CAN display of injector duty isn't accurate. It is an aggregate number, just like the pulse width.
The only way to know your actual duty cycle is with a scope.

My true duty cycle on the red primaries never goes above 85%.

 

yeah but you have a slow **** spooling turbo ....

sorry man - could not resist . Just shoot me .

 

I figured there was some catch like that...

There still wouldn't be a downside to upgrading just as a precaution right?

Controlling boost spikes with the AEM TruBoost is flaky (it's a shitty boost controller but I'll have to stick with it for now) and I definitely don't want to be in a situation where I spike in the 5 to 6k RPM range and blow the engine due to it leaning out from hitting the ceiling on injectors. The other day when it was the first time I drove with temps in the 40s I saw the AFRs in the 12s somewhere above 4k RPM and I backed off immediately and turned down the boost. The amount that it peaks at also varies based on the altitude, temperature, and weather at the same duty cycle.

 

I went to Mach V Motorsports today to get some logs for Jeff for my MMCCS and got some dyno runs done as well. Here are some quick exports I did of the dynojet data. I did runs with three different boost settings:
50%: ~9psi across the range
70%: spike to 13ish then taper off towards redline (I didn't see the actual boost curve)
74%: I observed this one and it spikes to about 14psi then falls to the 12s until the APV opens then holds about 10-10.5 to redline.

 

Here are some corresponding logs to go along with the above dyno graphs. I'll throw together a g/s vs power comparison in a bit as well as a visual representation of these logs.

It is worth noting that my peak airflows were in the 360s vs the low 400s I normally see on the street, probably due to the load difference. My oil temps were still pretty low in the 150s while coolant temps were in the 180s and 190s.

All the runs were done in 4th gear.

 

Are your AFRs so low because of your water/meth injection? They're about par with where mine are currently at with no injection whatsoever.

 

I was not running any methanol injection during these runs. I actually removed my tank when I recirculated my BOV a while back and have been running without it since the week or two after the dyno day where MM tuned it.

 

Dave says we could squeeze a good 20 more hp out my setup with new BNR GReddy and my afrs down as low as they are. I guess its better than them going high in the meantime.

 

Those results seem to indicate that you still have an issue with the setup ....

has anyone checked over your vac pipe routing ?

 

I've looked over the vacuum lines but I didn't notice anything awry. In what way do you think it could be setup wrong? The car is making boost, the reason it falls off is because my boost controller does not have the ability to do gain so the duty cycle is a static value across the RPM range. I suppose that my BOV could potentially be leaking but it is not like the boost falls off immediately, it will spike a bit then hold fairly constant through the mid range then start tapering off to the 10s from maybe 6kish to redline.

 

it just seems that for the boost you are saying it is doing with the GT3071R, you should be making much more power than 250 whp.

 

As NGO says - you should be making way more power with a boost profile like that - over 300 .

I have seen at least 2 others on here who had shop installs done but had the vac lines wrong causeing similar results to what you are seeing .

One had boost going into the engine crankcase , the other had boost from the LIM feeding back into the intake . Countless people also get the Jet air thing wrong such that a boost leak can occur , although this would be relatively minor.

I would take a bet that a LOT of installers get this very simple pipework wrong .

 

Somebody needs to draw the vac lines on a bar napkin and post 'em up

 

Rather than post something here I think a thread devoted to the subject is warranted . Will do something soon .

 

I'm trying to get my hands on a 3071R sitting in a garage not being used, so please do.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/greddy-turbo-correct-connection-vacuum-hoses-dont-stuff-up-211884/

 

Awesome, thanks for that thread Brettus. I checked this morning and my setup has post MAFS hoses running from the intake through a catch can to the oil breather as well as one from the intake to the jet air. Neither has a one way check valve so maybe this is the source of my power loss.

I'll post up a full diagram of all my vacuum lines and hoses later.

Setup as seen here:

 

Seems one easy solution, at least for the catch can, is to plug that hole right after the maf and attach a breather onto that end of the catch can.

I hadn't even considered that as a potential source ... just think of all the air potentially being sent into your crank case during boost ... Out of pure dumb luck I've got my post maf lines plugged.

 

The breather circuit is OK although I prefer not to have the vapours feed back into the intake .

The other line beside it should be the OMP line .

The line going to the pipe just before the throttle should be the jet air line .

If the above is how it is you don't need any check valves and all is good .


If the jet air and OMP lines are swapped then that would be causing some power loss . How much , I'm not sure .

 

The pipe you are talking about is a suction pipe only and does not see boost .

 

*sigh*... so my hopes for a quick and easy resolution to more power has been dashed.

It looks like everything is hooked up as it should be. The intake has the yellow marked hose and the white marked hose is going to the IC pipe.

I suppose my next move will be to hook my boost controller to the LIM and see if the boost at that point is the same as the UIM. If it is at least I will know it is something between the UIM and the LIM, if not I guess I will try to rig up my air compressor to pressurize the intake system to about 14psi or so and hunt for leaks.

 

Bugger - at least that rules that out though.

Is there anything hooked up to the LIM nipples currently ?