Brettus

iTrader: (2)

/\ have not had a noticeable reduction in boost due to warmer temperature - but have seen a little less flow .
Start getting into the habit of regularly logging g/s and that will give you a base point to reference if there is any issues . Also is the best way to monitor any improvements you make .

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Posted this in another thread - Thought it would be worth posting here as well .
WHP progression for the Greddy kit :

240- 260whp - stock greddy turbo with the usual recommended upgrades

280-300 whp - Upgrade the compressor to BNR T04e 50 trim or equivalent .Do the wastegate mod or upgrade the actuator . No other major changes required.

330-350 whp - Upgrade the compressor to BNR 60-1 , upgrade the suction piping to 21/2" min the compression piping to the I/C to 21/4" min , upgrade the I/C . Modify the turbo exit for better flow . Fit 3" exhaust . Upgrade fuel pump , injectors , ignition .Do the wastegate mod or upgrade the actuator. Then pray it all hangs together

USMC_Skip

Well my rebuild is complete with the NRS ceramics and i just received my turbo back from BNR soon as I get everything back together and tuned I will get it dynoed soon after. Only thing I need now is a little more cash haha

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

With the 50 trim your inlet id is 55ish mm . Make sure you grind out the flange on the inlet pipe (53mm stock i believe) to the same diameter as the turbo inlet before fitting it .

Also ... would be worth checking out this wastegate mod before you fit the turbo.
here....... https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...22&postcount=1

USMC_Skip

How hard is it to grind that out, Bryan from BNR fitted my turbo with his 1bar actuator upgrade. Would I still need to do this? I'll take photos and post it on here when I get a chance.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Very easy - it's just aluminium . You could do it with a dremmel .


Probably not. That's good , is he doing that as standard now ?

USMC_Skip

Not standard as I still had to pay for it, but he offers a 1bar and 2bar option. I don't see myself going over 14psi

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

So this thread has been a little slow lately.....

Brett I did your WG arm mod and holy ****! I took off the nut from the WG arm and cranked the arm as short as it could go. I was seeing about 10psi and even managed to induced boost creep when my ssv actuator opened up to about 12 psi.

I re-adjusted the arm length so that I cranked it completely as short as it could go, then lengthened it 2 complete 360deg rotations from there. I am now seeing full peak boost of about 9psi at around 3800-4000 rpm. which then drops to around 6.5 or 7 psi by redline. The car is pulling much much harder compared to seeing 5.5 to 6psi peak dropping to about 4psi by redline. AFRs are sitting between 11.0 and 11.5 according to my AP on both 2nd and 3rd gear WOT pulls to redline. Saw a max of 302g/s in 2nd gear, compared to about 260g/s I used to see.

Next I need to get my EBC installed and tuned....

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I should have my turbo back soon, I will try and adjust mine before I mount it and reinstall the engine/turbo kit.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear it worked out - and that your tune was up to the task as well .

BTW- I did suggest in my thread that you take it one turn at a time rather than go all the way to start with .

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

You probably don't want to do that first up . Far better for the health of your engine to get tuned at lower boost

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Is it easy to do with the turbo mounted and the engine in the car? Will it be easily accessible through the wheel well?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

/\ easy to do when in car . Just remove x-member and it's all right there

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Cool, thanks.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

I know I did do that, but I had the arm as short as I could possibly go with the nut still on the threads and I was only getting about 7psi peak.... So I didn't post about the first few tries where it barely increased. I actually at one point thought that I may be looking for a boost leak because the results were so pewny. What a shock/relief once I saw the boost gauge creep up to 12psi haha; backed it off 720deg and found exactly where I wanted to be.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Yeah Brettus' thread has it bang on; no need to even remove a wheel; remove 4 17mm bolts, 1 19mm stud and just loosen the 19mm stud on the left side of the car. The xmember just swings out of the way revealing the WG arm then. I easily accessed it by jacking the front end of the car up and crawling under on my back. Got the e-clip with needle nose's and 10mm wrench for the WG arm nut. The needle nose pliers also helped big time to get the arm on and off of the WG flap since you will need to tug on the actuator arm quite a bit once it is shortend.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I think if you guys even remotely understood what you are doing to your IATs and EGTs when you perform this "mod", you wouldn't be doing it.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

I backed it off to ensure that there was no boost creep induced at all Jeff. My boost profile is nearly identical to what it was at stock arm length except 3 to 3.5 psi greater throughout, peak and where it drops of in the higher rpm range.

10psi with boost creep was only a short drive to test where I was at.... which was obviously too much and immediately returned to my garage to back it off.

Although I will keep an eye on my IAT's for a while now to see if I notice a large difference from before..... no way for me to measure EGT's at the moment.

Flashwing

Unless you have a separate sensor post turbo or your using a blow through MAF setup your IAT measurement won't reflect your actual intake air temp either.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

ah yes wasn't thinking there ..... I know this is still quite different from the other two measurements but my coolant temp was unaffected....

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

What you are doing is operating the turbo way past its efficiency range (adiabatic heating is mostly what is increasing your boost level) and restricting exhaust flow and throughput, which overspins the turbo (providing the remainder of your Pr increase) and greatly increases EGT, dilutes the intake charge, increases charge heating and puts you over the knock threshold, especially on transition.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Do you guys remember the thread where Jeff and Brett had a "discussion" about this? I remember reading it a while ago (last summer maybe ) but I've been searching and can't find what thread title it was. I'd would like to read that over again since it seems to be the direction this thread is going to go if I keep asking questions.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Uh, go back 5 pages! lol

Chris

iTrader: (10)

lol, yeah should be this thread.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I actually just got off the phone with AMR (customizing and rebuilding my turbo) and Rob says it is not ideal and will prematurely wear the turbo out if it is standard Greddy unit. He basically said if you push it beyond it's design parameters you will wear out the internals. I also found out my turbo has a brand new wastegate actuator on it, not sure if it a Greddy replacement or something better.