No, it's an opportunity. That's the term where I work.

 

i live in florida, and even my garage has a heater/AC in it!

 

Have the oil return go to the filler neck

 

For whats its worth, I live up north and had an oil pan heater put on my car and it started no problem when we had a cold spell of -30C t0 -40C (which I think is -22F to -40F) so Richards plan might work...

 

You'd have to add a pump to the return line.

 

How difficult would it be to tie it into the return line for the passenger side oil cooler. It would be at about the right level so backpressure would be minimal...and the oil would be cooler??

 

Anything from Greddy on the Map?

 

Few things, I have had no such problems as this, of course i think it may dip into the high 50's here at night (west coast ). Also, i had a similar code for a misfire, but i cleared it, took the car out to the canyon roads and ran the **** out of it, and all is fine thus far. No more cel. I was curious, what is yoru catch can hooked up too? the oil neck and then into the can, then to what? It is meant to enter back into the engine i think, at least all the ones i have seen have 2 nipples on them. Picks/diagrams would be great. Definitely gonna keep an eye on this one though.

 

All the ones I've ever seen have two nipples also

 

I could joke about that comment but I won't.

 

It was a joke but your the only one who got it.

 

ever seen total recall?

 

As my '8 is garage-kept, my input may not be valid. (Though, it is 5°F outside right now and 22°F in the garage.)
However, I don't have any form of condensation in my oil at all, ever. No milky dipstick (no jokes, please ), no oil in the intake and no smoky starts.
However, I also have something Jon's car does not - a direct return to the intake from the oil filler neck like the OEM setup instead of a catch can.

 

Catch can is hooked up to the oil filler neck. It's just there to catch blow by gases and keep any liquid from blowing into your engine bay.. just too bad my BOV suddenly decided to switch jobs with the oil filler neck :p

Oh yeah, they didn't email me the map today. I'm going to make a nastygram phone call to bitch about it. Of course it'll have to be after I get home from my mech's place.

 

Yup, I was wondering about why you had it setup like that Jeff.. my understanding is that having pressurized air in the oil system isn't exactly a good thing.

However, with all the testing Greddy did with this kit, there's got to be a reason for having the oil filler neck exposed to 'atmosphere'.

 

Greddy does have a listing on their Japanese page for the SE3P oil pan - it's part number 13543501. Doing a Google search only returned 2 results from Greddy Japan's webpage.

It does state that it has an oil return already plumbed into the pan, and it also has 600cc more capacity than the stocker. Japanese retail price is 32,500 yen, which is $313 in US dollars - again, that's retail price, street price should be mid-$200 range. As to where to get it, I'm not sure. Might have to call some Greddy places up - a shop with good Japanese connections could likely get it.

I've seen Greddy's oil pans in person, and they're VERY well made and designed. Also, I don't think an FD oil pan would work - the back of the oil pan is where the motor mounts attach, and it would require extensive fabrication. The pan doesn't have any oil drain inputs either - the turbos drain into the front cover and the rear iron.

Does the catch can plumb into the intake to the turbo? I would assume so.

BTW, the stuff you normally get in a catch can is pretty thin - doesn't seem like normal oil at all.

Good luck! I have a feeling you might be on the right track with it being primarily a VERY cold weather problem.

Dale

 

Yes but...

No it doesn't and that is my point.

My oil line isn't under boost - it is under slight vacuum. Yours is not. Therefore, my crank case is constantly being vacuumed out of all the vapor and such - yours is witing to be pressurized out by blowby.

 

I saw a couple of places where the kit came with a pan also. i believe one of those places was on ebay

 

maybe shawrf1 could chime in here about the oil pan, his car has one.

and i think that the best way to go. no messing with heaters or long drain lines to the nether regions of the engine bay. just a nice clean pan. and the extra capacity wont hurt either.

 

Am I missing something? Why are you all talking about the pan?
The greddy kit comes with a fitting to use the oil drain plug hole as a return. You don't need the return fitting behind the drain plug like the Greddy oil pan. Or were you planning on using it for something else?

 

Well Guys/Gals,

I figured out what the problem was. It had NOTHING at all to do with the turbo. It was my stinking oil catch can. The inlet piping for the catch can that connects to the oil fill neck was getting clogged with frozen condensation. This ice would prevent the pressure buildup inside the oil system from being relieved. This excess oil pressure was causing the oil to seep through the seals of the turbo into my exhaust/intake. That's why I got all the smoke and rouch idle on the very first start of a sub-freezing morning. I've since re-routed how that feed line for the catch can goes so that any fluids it does can drain properly into the catch can. Shouldn't happen again.

Let this be a lesson learned at my expense. Make sure you install the catch can properly the first time

 

Jeff or Jon, Do you have a picture of where you have the catch can connected to?

 

Marlton, we have NO problem

I'm breathing again - thanks.

 

I took before after pics of the catch can.. give me about 30 minutes to eat some lunch and I'll post the pics.

Pic 1: Notice how the inlet piping dips before going into the catch can. This is where the moisture would build up and freeze. Which blocked off the line.

Pic 2: This is how it should look. Notice how there is no chance of moisture being trapped in the inlet hose.

 

I'm crossing my fingers that nothing else goes wrong.