Well, I'm basically tuning for 7.5 PSI, but my wastegate actuator is too stiff so I've seen spikes as high as 9 PSI, so I have my maps run out at 9.5 PSI just for that eventuality. I doubt there is enough fuel available to support 9.5 PSI at redline.
I've had no luck finding a 5 or 6 PSI actuator from any of my usual sources, so I may have to dismantle the 7 PSI actuator that I have and mutilate the spring.
I am going to try to get a set of secondaries from a 4-speed RX-8 and drop them in where the second primaries are on my car. That will give me 10 or 15% more fuel to play with and no need to weld extra injectors in place.
The stock maps barely ever touch the second primaries - they aren't even turned on below 6700 RPM.

I'd be reticent to just blow away your Greddy tune. They put a lot of thought into it and it would be better to start there then from scratch if you have the option.

Also, I have my injectors wired differently - I don't have the primaries hooked up to the E-Manage because tuning them is seemingly pointless - they are mapped all over the place and are maxed out by 3750 RPM or so. I rely on the secondaries to cover the added fuel after that point. I am also running the second primaries as sub-injectors so I can turn them on at will. They now come on under boost fairly rich up to 3750 RPM where I shut them down a bit and switch over to the add injection map for the secondaries.
Greddy didn't do it this way so my maps probably wont work right on your setup.
Of course, I could generate a whole new set of maps for you on the dyno, I'd just rather have the Greddy maps to fall back on and analyze.

 

I finally did it!!! Two days and 51 pages later; I've finally caught up with this thread. You guys are making me soooooo jelous with your turbo talk! Congratulations to both of you, have some serious fun for me!

 

emsdad - 51 pages at 7 psi

Jon and Jeff - and others, Charles, Horse, to name a few, have shown us that the seals are built for FI under a controlled boost. True Renesis innovators for the USDM 13B-MSP SE3P. My hat is off to you all of you...

Beers!

 

Well, to be perfectly honest, no one has proven any such thing yet. We won't know the answer to that until someone has been running under boost for a decent period of time. I don't think anyone expected the enging to instantly grenade itself. That said, the initial news has certainly been good! Its been especially interesting, as the rumors have been that the side port motor wasn't as suitable for turbo charging as previous versions, but so far I would say it seems perfectly suitable to me.

jds

 

There is one thing I can’t figure out, when tuning under WOT does the ECU read from the o2 sensor? I remember reading somewhere here that it doesn’t. So, if it doesn’t read from the o2 sensor how can you tune properly?

 

did anyone get the crack for the emanage? I need it.

-Ryan

 

The sensor is still working, the ECU simply isn't using it for calculations - which is good. You don't want the ECU to see that you are intentionally running rich and try to pull fuel out because it reads it on the WBO2S.

You tune it the same way you tune any car. You take A/F readings under different, progressively increasing load conditions and then add or subtract injector duty cycle until you hit your target A/F under that load condition.

 

or to put it in laymans terms: Use a wideband
:p

 

Wow, tracking maps, adjusting a/f, monitoring psi, it seems that having a turbo is a heck of a lot of work. Can't the average 8 owner just install it and drive it and not worry about tweaking, or is this a necessary evil of having a turbo?

 

Sorry i couldnt read the 51 pages , but what did the car put down before and after the turbo?

 

Absolutely not - especially if you buy a tested kit like the Greddy.

However, some of us like that sort of thing and if you want to push the kit harder than it comes configured, you need to do that kind of stuff initially.

You can just bolt on the Greddy kit and go if you like.

 

so far it seems if you keep this out of the box...you will be fine to leave it alone...

now...coming from a tuning background...i would strongly be against this...i would at least become familiar enough with the system and how your car interacts with the new mods...to me...and i'm sure others, i think it is absolutely VITAL to monitor and tweak as you go...no kit OTB is perfect...there is always room for improvement and EVERY car is different and will handle the mods differently...also once you do a major upgrade, i.e. Turbo, you have pretty much rendered "leaving it be" out of the question...the more you add, change, take away, the more tweaking, observing, and research you will need to do...once you begin mods of this magnitude...there is the "necessary inherent evil" of constant tweaking...especially if you live where you have 4 seasons..

 

I'd agree with that.

I guess. Or you can just get it right and leave it alone.
After the initial tuning of my Miata in 1999, I didn't touch it again until just a few weeks ago when I switched to a smaller turbo.
Just bolted that on and that was it.
Once I got the tuning dialed in, I only felt the need to twiddle with it if I had a new toy that I wanted to test on a "known entity".

 

lol...guess i should've stuck with Mazda's...

i probably shouldn't have said "constant"...i know on my 300Z SMZ..it felt like i was always tweaking things...but I was also changing stuff around too...so...your right...new toys = more tweaking...

that's funny...this is probably the first time you've ever agreed with something i said...i feel ...rather enlightened...

 

That's good to know..

Initially I'd just want to bolt it on, and run and be happy, but of course as more time and $ come my way, I'd be more than willing to learn more about it and tweak. Its just that most of us dont have the time, equipment or know how to do all these awesome things you folks are doing. :o I'd just like to know that going with a kit like this could be simple too, yet could also be advanced as you want it to be!

 

That's the route I'm going. I'm going to keep the stock tune on the greddy kit for another 100 miles or so before I go to my tuner.

 

Yeah, we gotta find out how much boost the stock internals and drive chain
can handle :P

And I guess the only way to find out how much abuse it can take is to break it.

 

Going to hijack my own thread for a minute and direct your attention over to this thread. I posted some pics of Richard Pauls short throw shifter which he asked me to test out for him. Top notch product there. Details there so go check it out!

Now back to the topic at hand. I don't see any part of the drive train breaking down due to the turbo kit. At 7psi it really isn't much more stress on the engine and transmission. The only thing I see 'going' is the stock clutch. I was expecting to have to replace it because the stock clutch probably can't handle the extra torque the turbo delivers.

 

Bad news on the password for the emanage. Talked to Greddy and they dont give out the passwords because of some copyright issue with Trust Japan. Only thing that can be done is load a base map and do your own map.

Jason

 

Crap. Now isn't that some crap... I wish they would have included that information along with the kit.. Oh well.. Jeff, looks like I may use your base map as a reference after all.

 

what format is are the password protected maps in? brute force could work...even if it locks up after 3 tires, just let it run all night on a cycle

lets discuss this some more...anything is possible

 

Assuming it is 5 letters and from what I remember the password is case sensitive.
That leaves 52^5 possibilities. Assuming that the com port locks out for 1 second after 3 tries we end up with roughly ~2 years (since we normally find the correct code after trying 50% of the possiblities) to crack the code. We better get on it!

If 1000 people buy the kit then we could do some distributed form of brute force crack.

Find a way to prevent the com port from disabling and we are on a roll..

 

Why not? I did it!

Anyway, there have been no times posted as of yet.

 

I took my RX-8 to the dyno before and I had a max of 177.16whp and 129.88ft/lbs of torque. I'll post numbers friday of the dyno results with the turbo on.

-Jon

 

A search on an e-manage forum turned up some information about having to call the support number that came with the kit and requesting a form to wave liability in order to get the password.

Not sure if thats true but its worth a try.