ok, how do you clear the non volitile memory, is that the disconnect the negative terminal for 30 min?, If so shoot, I'll hook up a switch to the cable and just do that while I'm filling up and washing windows and such... if it gives me 22mpg... hehe...

 

Guys sorry for the possible idiotic question again, but reading Jon's post, this came to my mind: what about heat?

I remember the FD had some heat problems when moving in traffic, right? What about the FI rx8?

Thanks

 

I'm not worried about heat when I'm running 7psi of boost. If I ever decide to "up the dosage" I may up grade the radiator.

 

I think the only thing the Greddy kit is really missing is som heat shilding for the manifold .
There is some aluminized wrap on som eof the snsitive bits, but I prefer aluminum plate to totally separate the manifold/turbo from the engine compartment.

 

Yeah, we taped it up pretty good with heat shield tape.. However, I may get some scrap sheet aluminum and see if I can fabricate a diffferent shield.

 

Personally I think Greddy should have included a upgraded oil cooler. If Mazda thought it was vital enough for them to put it in the Mazdaspeed RX8 in Japan, it may prove vital in a force inducted RX8.

 

By upgraded, do they mean they added another one to the JDM 8? IIRC the JDM regular 8 only had one while the US version already had two installed. I could be horribly wrong on this of course, but I vaguely remember reading something to this effect, can anyone confirm?

BTW, let me add my congrats phildox, I've been away from the site for a while and it was a pleasent surprise to come back and see your early successes with the greddy kit, keep it up :D

 

Jon, you were referencing a bog situation a few posts back. This is just a hypothesis/curiosity, but the throttle plate is electronically actuated in the drive by wire. Perhaps the actuator isn't strong enough to stay open at partial throttle with the velocity of the FI airflow. Might be something else to look at.

 

That could be a possibility, but I think it has more to do with fine tuning the air/fuel maps so the transfer between the "boost" maps and stock settings is more seamless.

 

this is one long thread - not got time to read it all, but someone on the UK owners club forum posted a link straight to the page with the video link.........dude that sounds sweet :D good luck with it! maybe one day when my warranty runs out................

 

fwiw, your rx8 is behaving very close to how my miata did, with it's VTA BOV...

 

the greddy 8 at SEMA had two greddy oil coolers in the OEM locations. just for bling I'd assume....given a fixed area and number, it's hard to improve on the oil cooler design.

and jon, when you had to remove the one motor mount, what did you use? can it be removed and the others hold the motor alright? or do you need to put a tranny jack on the motor?

that and are there any other uncommon tools you needed during the install? im trying to decide if i get it whether or not I need a professional to install it...i can hold my own with a wrench, but i have a limited tool supply.

 

Did the problem clear up when you recirculated the air, instead of venting it?

 

Nope. Pressure isn't a factor there and the plate can sever a finger if you give it a chance.

You can let it dangle, but you will need to jack it up and down to get the mount in and out and work the turbo and manifold in and out.

You will need a crow's foot wrench or the Mazda special tool (49 T018 001 or similar) in 22mm to remove the O2 sensor and a similarly sized deep socket to remove the oil pressure sensor.

 

I never recirculated the air...I left it alone; changed my driving style to drive around the issue. I didn't want to give up the sound of the BOV, because the turbo was nearly silent.

hehe

 

wish there was a way to put a switch on it so one way it vents it so everyone in there dog can hear that psssshhhhttttt... and then the other way (recirculate it) it will drive camaro's and mustangs, even srt-4's wild trying to figure out what just happened.. why did the car with angry eyes just beat me that isn't suppose to happen... :D that way with one part you get best of both worlds.. quiet when you want it, and not when you don't

 

Well, decided to get some more turbo toys. Amoung them are a turbo timer and boost controller. Here's what I'm getting:

GReddy Full Auto Turbo Timer (Black color)
GReddy Profec B 2 Electronic Boost Controller

I was kicking around the idea of getting the Profec E-01, but I don't really need all the bells and whistles (though it does look hot!).

 

GFB stealth fx...for like the 10th time lol

 

hehe, only a few hours since I asked a question and I have to thank you for the answer on a different page either this thread is sick or everyone here is turbojunkie....

well, thanks guys:D

 

couldn't you have used the profec E-01 to tune the greddy emanage? with the password of course.

 

Yes I could have. However, I am not going to tune the car myself, nor would I even attempt to since I lack the knowledge of how to do it. Knowing that, I decided to go with the Profec B since I won't need the extra bells and whistles the E-01 gives. That and budget is starting to get tight so I wanted to spread what I have left around smartly

 

Yes - and in a lot of ways it is convenient. Cool too.
But doing it with a laptop is a bit easier.

I still use both. I create a MAP on my laptop and load it into the E-Manage.
Then I drive and log on the Profec and make tuning changes.
When I get home I watch the log and offload the tweaked MAP back into the laptop where I analyze it and make changes to smooth transitions and look for minor mistakes or glitches.
Then I save it trough my wireless network from the garage and load it back into the E-Manage.

 

what amount of boost are you tuning for Jeff? If I can't get the password for my e-manage, I may ask to have a copy of your base map so I have something to work with when I go to the tuner.

 

I just change the main jet and the air corrector jet. Then I might change the emulsion tube and sometimes the idle jet. For a bog I might change the squirter and/or the pump bleedback plus the pump rod on rare occations. Mostly just the spring.
I can change the choke size if I'm having to much trouble getting rid of a bog or on the other hand can use more top end.

Not in that particular order though. It would depend on other clues.
I would just set the timing at the known max below peak tq with maybe a retard above when peak boost came in.

 

Uh, OK.
If I install Webber down drafts or a Holley 4-barrel on my 13b-MSP I'll keep that in mind.