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Greddy turbo install help

Old May 21, 2005 | 08:08 PM
  #126  
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Check valve? Against what? It is simply plumbed into the intake, so the air only goes one way, anyway.
It is basically a controlled vacuum leak to begin with.
BOV adjustment probably helped a lot more.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 10:49 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Check valve? Against what? It is simply plumbed into the intake, so the air only goes one way, anyway.
It is basically a controlled vacuum leak to begin with.
BOV adjustment probably helped a lot more.
Hey Jeff , I don't know you tell me... Can it be that when under boost, just to keep boost from escaping, maybe that's silly, any theories..

Last edited by Greddyturbo1; May 22, 2005 at 09:22 PM.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 11:44 PM
  #128  
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Greddy turbo

In the process of installing the Greddy turbo, couple of questions:

The greddy instructions say to remove the catalytic converter. I disconnected it from the exhaust manifold but don't see any need to completely remove it. Did anyone else find a need to remove it?

Does anyone have a pick of the aux temp sensor that must be flipped 180 degrees in the front bumper for the intercooler?
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Old May 21, 2005 | 11:51 PM
  #129  
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coud some one with the type s bov do me a favor and mesure the bolt and tell me how far out it is rom the bolt to the tip. i want to get an appx. on how far out is is to make sure i am at the right release setting appx.ly
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Old May 22, 2005 | 12:57 AM
  #130  
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Rkostolni:

I didn't have to completely remove the Cat. I unscrew the back and the front of the Cat.
removed the cross member. Then pushed the CAT away from the downpipe.

NO, I didn't have to flip the aux temp sensor 180 degrees .
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Old May 23, 2005 | 08:34 AM
  #131  
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Great Thanks! One other question. I'm getting ready to install the intercooler, but I'm not sure of where it exactly needs to sit. I know the brackets need to be bent, but why? What is it that the intercooler needs to clear? Is there any easy way to know exactly where it needs to sit in order for the front bumper to fit back on?

Thanks in advance,
Ryan
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Old May 23, 2005 | 08:45 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by rkostolni
Great Thanks! One other question. I'm getting ready to install the intercooler, but I'm not sure of where it exactly needs to sit. I know the brackets need to be bent, but why? What is it that the intercooler needs to clear? Is there any easy way to know exactly where it needs to sit in order for the front bumper to fit back on?

Thanks in advance,
Ryan
I bent my brackets so all of the cooling fins were not being blocked by the metal frame on the bumper. There's 9 rows I think.
You can bend them more to have the intercooler sitting lower on top the plastic piece but I believe the inside of the front bumper would need alittle trimming.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=43270

http://www.***-internet.com/adrian-1...8/greddy/7.JPG

Here's a side view. I wanted the top part to be wedged and all the fins showing on the front.


Last edited by adrian-1; May 23, 2005 at 08:53 AM.
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Old May 23, 2005 | 08:56 AM
  #133  
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I place mine alittle bit higher. It actually cleared the bumper. Did not need to trim it.
Then again.,I don't have the appearance package.
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Old May 23, 2005 | 09:00 AM
  #134  
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Adrian,

Which vacumm line did you hook your Boost gauge to?
1. connect to the one that the BOV + pressure sensor
2. the Extra nipple on the side of the manifold?
3. tap into the one that is connected to the actuator?
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Old May 23, 2005 | 10:26 AM
  #135  
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2. the Extra nipple on the side of the manifold.
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Old May 23, 2005 | 10:37 AM
  #136  
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Thanks.
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Old May 23, 2005 | 10:52 AM
  #137  
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Adrian,

My turbo doesn't feel right. Seems like I am getting very little boost or no boost at all.
Even feel back pressure(I have a BOV)

for example:

I give it some gas, the boost builds up. The RPM will get stuck at 3000 RPM and will not pick up speed. Any ideas?
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Old May 23, 2005 | 11:22 AM
  #138  
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i think you really need to hook up the Boost gauge it is needed for sure .. with out it you could be gettin boost spike and F-up your engine ...
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Old May 23, 2005 | 12:43 PM
  #139  
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Question:

Can I get boost while not in Gear? If it si boost spike then I really don't want to drive it
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Old May 23, 2005 | 01:04 PM
  #140  
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You shouldn't be able to produce any significant boost without being under load - i.e. ingear and on the gas.
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Old May 23, 2005 | 01:07 PM
  #141  
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MazdaManiac:

LoL I tried to PM you but its full

Whats your thought on my issues?

thanks
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Old May 23, 2005 | 01:12 PM
  #142  
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I had to empty some messages. It has room now.

I don't know. It is simply too hard to diagnose problems like that without looking at the setup or at least having had something to do with the initial install.

Problems like yours and Horse's are almost always installation errors. Either something wasn't done right with the install or one of the additional parts that was added is screwing with the proper function of another.

Where are you located?
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Old May 23, 2005 | 01:27 PM
  #143  
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I am in Minnesota .

I do recall one of the dongle wires were not plug. So I plugged the male and female together.
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Old May 23, 2005 | 01:45 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by Speedrx8er
I am in Minnesota .

I do recall one of the dongle wires were not plug. So I plugged the male and female together.
Unfortunately, it has been a while since I looked at the harness on the Greddy kit, so I don't know if what you have done is correct or not.

Fly me out and put me up and I'll see what I can do!
Anybody who wants to (and has the means) can take advantage of that offer.:D
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Old May 23, 2005 | 02:05 PM
  #145  
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ahhaha lol. Car drive fine. I have to head out to VA for a wedding next month. hehe
maybe i'll just drive down there hahaha. Anyways, I went through the instructions again.
looks like I did the install correctly. I'll hook up the boost gauge today and see if i am getting any boost.
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Old May 23, 2005 | 02:18 PM
  #146  
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Rkostolni:
Can you look at your greddy wire before you put it in?
If there are any wires on the that is not connected to anything. Please let me know which one thanks. mine had only one
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Old May 24, 2005 | 07:12 PM
  #147  
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Sure thing speedrx8er, but I'm out of town for the week so I won't be able to tell you till probably Saturday night.
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Old May 24, 2005 | 08:07 PM
  #148  
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Thanks Adrian, that picture helps alot! I have come across a few other questions, hope someone wouldn't mind helping.

I looked through the rx8 workshop manual for the torque spec on the engine mount. Couldn't find anything. Seems to me this part should require a set torque. Did anyone else use a torque wrench or did everyone just guess?

I use my glove box extensively and don't want to crowd it up with the emanage and gauge controller. I noticed a few people mounted their emanage in the engine compartment by the washer fluid tank. Are you concerned at all with it putting it their because of moisture and heat?

In the rx8 workshop manual it says that the exhaust gasket must be replaced and not reused,I reused myne but I am concerned it might leak, has anyone had a problem with this?
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Old May 24, 2005 | 11:01 PM
  #149  
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There is space behind the glovebox for a lot of stuff. Drop it out (instructions in the FSM) and you will see there is room between the back of the glovebox and the A/C blower.

I think I may be the only one with the E-Manage mounted over the washer tank. My engine compartment is very cool, so heat isn't an issue. Also, in that position, there is no exposure to weather at all.

I just put the engine mount bolts in by feel, but be careful - the top mount is threaded in aluminum as are those that go into the engine itself.

The exhaust gasket is multi-layer, so it should be able to survive being reused. Mine has been off of the engine 3 or 4 times and it still seems to seal correctly.
It is an $80 gasket, so I'd at least try to recycle it.
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Old May 25, 2005 | 08:02 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Check valve? Against what? It is simply plumbed into the intake, so the air only goes one way, anyway.
It is basically a controlled vacuum leak to begin with.
BOV adjustment probably helped a lot more.

Hey jeff maybe I'am crazy but, I removed the check valve and reinstalled it, and my car runs better between shifts..

I know that when my RS BOV wasn't adjusted correct I had more problems with stalling or hesitation, but once I adjusted it to where the flutter I was hearing just dissapeared and I only heard the woosh, it ran much better.

But I must also say that I'am running the RP high flow cat and running 8psi.

So jeff I can't figure it out about the Check valve , but maybe it prevents leakage back out under boost...
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