He's talking about the dongle attached to the greddy harness.
I'll search on how to remove it and post later tonight.

 

Thanks

joey

 

Ugh. You need to get together with someone that knows this stuff and can help you directly.

 

I've posted a thread on how to remove the dongle here.

ONLY remove this dongle if your having hesitation issues or if shifting isn't smooth.

 

Thanks Adrian, car runs better now

 

Anybody see any good parts to help wheel hop?

 

Question:
I have the Greddy turbo kite.
If I switch air filter and the have it setups the same way Speed force racing has theres.
is there any benefit or will I just wasting time and $$?

 

I'm not sure if it's going to benefit from the modified intake, but I want to try to relocate the filter out from under the hood. Let me know how it works out if you decide to do it and take pics plz :D

 

Well I've finally been able to drive my turbo'd 8. I was holding off because I wanted to get it tuned since I am running the N flash and wasn't sure if the Greddy tuning was compatible. I called Greddy about a month ago and told them about the N flash, when I called them two days ago, they actually had done something about it. They borrowed a car from Mazda and tested the compatibility. I'm surprised, I didn't think they'd actualy even noted the problem. Well it turns out everything is fine and good. The original Greddy tuning is fine to use with the N flash.

My impression, boost comes on strong about 3500 and the car really pulls up till around 5000 then theirs a noticeable power drop. I haven't installed my boost gauge yet, still waiting to receive it, so I don't know if boost is falling or not.

I flooded my car during the install and the dealer cleaned the plugs but didn't replace them. How likely is it that I have partially fouled plugs causing this? Also, if I pull the plugs can it be determined any way whether they are partially fouler or not short of just replacing them?

 

I don't know about you guys but even without the dongle my car seems gerky as hell, no such thing as a smooth shift anymore, at partial throttle the BOV seems to open a little and gerk the car and on the interstate maintaing a constant speed is very gerky it's like your either in the throttle or not, also sometimes at WOT at certain rpms the car seems like it bogs and then goes again. Is this the way itis with a turbo or is it just me, I also got a cel if that might have anything to do with it?

 

I used MazdaManiacs fuel maps and my car is doing alot better but I still have a boost problem. My car was doing the same exact thing to the T, everything you posted. I'm checking for leaks because it wont go past 3 PSI in first gear?

 

3psi? Must be a huge leak.
I've just posted a DIY on how to leak test your turbo kit. Thread here.

 

I contacted Benny at Greddy about my issues with boost dropping off and what could cause this. His suggestions below.
- leak test system
- put check valve between jet air fuel mixing hose and intake connection. (sucks air in, doesn't let air out). found one at autozone. He said it would keep air from leaking by during boost.

I leak checked my system and tried it without the check valve first. Sure enough, air was blowing by thru the yellow line hose (jet air fuel mixing hose). So I installed the check valve and the it stopped the air from escaping thru that hose.


Benny did say the Greddy kit will drop boost in the upper RPMs and said it could go down to 2psi depending what gear your in. But I was hoping my drop was due to a leak somewhere.
I also asked him about adjusting the wastegate actuator tighter so I could reach 7psi. He stated 7psi should still be safe with the latest map out, but to not exceed 7psi.


As stated above, I did find my leak and my PSI is now holding through the mid rpms and a very noticeable difference in power. I've also adjusted my wastegate to get 7psi max and I've installed the check valve in the jet air fuel mixing hose.

I will take the check valve out once I get used to my "fixed" car and see how much of a difference it makes.

 

Adrian I thought the white line hose was the jet air fuel mixing hose

 

I think I had them switched.
When I pumped the air in, it was escaping out through the hose with the yellow line. Benny said air would escape thru the jet air fuel mixing hose.
I've changed the earlier hose picture to show this.

 

Adrian nice!!!
once again your post has been very helpful.
Using the pic you posted of the leak tester as a guide. I made one with parts laying around and I found no leak(peace of mind) after I switch the tube around.

 

Adrain1, thats exactly what I did with the check valve, and seems to smooth out some of the problems , I think some thought I was nuts when I said this earlier in another thread, but I'am glad to see others are trying for them selves.. I also went to autozone for the check valve about 4.00bucks... Benny said they used one fro a 240Z, Brake booster but when I check it was 40bucks new, Benny said they used that one just because it was around and the same 5mm openning... So it really doesn't matter one we use , as long as the openning is the same size as the hose, or bigger and reduced to right size..

 

I used my old brake hose. I had laying around .Works great.

 

Adrian did you had to tighten the wastegate alot to get 7 psi?

 

One full turn. (360 degrees, minimum adjustment is half a turn).

 

Adrian Thanks

 

I had to loosen mine up 2 turns on the actuator because I was getting too much boost, there must be allot of variables on this kit..

 

I think you misunderstood me. When I was talking about the right size openning, I meant the openning on the check valve being no smaller than 5mm which is the size of the hose supplied with the Greddy kit..

 

IC..

 

Seem that way. Mine was getting low boost. I tightend mine by one turn already. I am still not getting 7. I'll try another half turn,