Greddy turbo install help
Thread Starter
Ex- member.
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Austin, TX
wow, those questions don't belong in this thread since it's about help installing the turbo not tuning it.
To get you started, search for threads containing these topics....
open loop and closed loop, emanage injection control (mazdamaniac has a sticky on this in the major hp upgrades section), wideband O2 sensor.
Another thing, the hymee scanalyzer isn't adequate to monitor AFR's on a turbo'd 8.
The reason, the RX8 wideband O2 sensor bottoms out at 12:1. I found this out when I tried using the Canscan to get my AFR's. I posted a thread about it here.
Here's a quote from Benny at Greddy....
"The target A/F for the kits was about 10.5-10.8 to 1 AFR. I myself would not go above 11.5 on these stock motors with high boost, just to be on the safe side. "
PM me any questions after you've searched.
To get you started, search for threads containing these topics....
open loop and closed loop, emanage injection control (mazdamaniac has a sticky on this in the major hp upgrades section), wideband O2 sensor.
Another thing, the hymee scanalyzer isn't adequate to monitor AFR's on a turbo'd 8.
The reason, the RX8 wideband O2 sensor bottoms out at 12:1. I found this out when I tried using the Canscan to get my AFR's. I posted a thread about it here.
Here's a quote from Benny at Greddy....
"The target A/F for the kits was about 10.5-10.8 to 1 AFR. I myself would not go above 11.5 on these stock motors with high boost, just to be on the safe side. "
PM me any questions after you've searched.
90% Carbon-100% Power
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From: Thessaloniki,GREECE
Hey what brand of wideband sensor should i install to have it work with the profec e0-1 to see afr etc??Which is the best brand and which is the best place to see real afrs????
jump...
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From: Croatia
I think mazdamaniac has installed LM-1 (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com) wideband sensor to work on profec. I have just orderd one.
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I have installed the LM-1 and it was'nt hard to connect to the Profec-E01, makes it so much easier to check your AFR ...
I'am currently running around 10.5-10.9 and My Car does'nt seem to like it, A little backfire every now and then. When I run around 11.5 My Car seems to love it, No problems with backfires.... I running 9psi and 100 octane....
Has anyone tried next colder plugs and gapping them at .030... I think that's my next project...
I'am currently running around 10.5-10.9 and My Car does'nt seem to like it, A little backfire every now and then. When I run around 11.5 My Car seems to love it, No problems with backfires.... I running 9psi and 100 octane....
Has anyone tried next colder plugs and gapping them at .030... I think that's my next project...
Thread Starter
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by Greddyturbo1
I have installed the LM-1 and it was'nt hard to connect to the Profec-E01, makes it so much easier to check your AFR ...
I'am currently running around 10.5-10.9 and My Car does'nt seem to like it, A little backfire every now and then. When I run around 11.5 My Car seems to love it, No problems with backfires.... I running 9psi and 100 octane....
Has anyone tried next colder plugs and gapping them at .030... I think that's my next project...
I'am currently running around 10.5-10.9 and My Car does'nt seem to like it, A little backfire every now and then. When I run around 11.5 My Car seems to love it, No problems with backfires.... I running 9psi and 100 octane....
Has anyone tried next colder plugs and gapping them at .030... I think that's my next project...
Did you mount the O2 sensor before the cat? Mazdamaniac was burning through sensors quickly in that position.
I've installed one step colder leading plugs (RE8) and left the trailing stock. I bought the RE8's from canzoomer.com.
Also, I gapped all of them to 0.030. Didn't notice much of a change.
Consiglieri
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From: yourI'mgirl
Wouldn't you get leaner readings installed after the cat? I am planning on ordering the LC-1 and using a heatsink, but mounting just before the cat. I was under the impression that MM got it to work just before the cat flange - I could be mistaken, though.
Thread Starter
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From: Austin, TX
I don't think MM ever got it to stop burning up in the precat position. He got a racepipe with no cat and mounted the sensor further down. He suggested mounting it as close to the cat and using a heatsink MIGHT keep the sensor from burning up.
Here's his quote from an earlier thread.
When I had my 8 dynotuned my shop welded in the O2 bung as close as they could to the cat (I have the RP supercat).
Is the LC-1 with O2 sensor ($199) all I need to read the AFR on the E-01? I'm also planning on getting the heatsink extender.
Here's his quote from an earlier thread.
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
I use an LM-1 for the real thing.
The trick with keeping it from burning up is to put the sensor downstream of the resonator if you have no CAT.
If you DO have a CAT, get and extender and build a good heatsink. If you mount it as close to the CAT as possible, it might survive. The Bosch LSU4.2 sensor that pretty much EVERY WBO2S uses is just not designed to be held at 1600° for a long time.
You will also find that your long term fuel trim aill lean the A/F after a while so don't go overboard when leaning out to above 12:1.
I'm running around 12:1 in a bunch of places under load, but there are some ranges that are somewhat leaner. If they don't ping, I leave them alone.
Correct A/F is not an absolute. Generally, 11.5:1 may be better, but the motor will tell you what it needs.
The trick with keeping it from burning up is to put the sensor downstream of the resonator if you have no CAT.
If you DO have a CAT, get and extender and build a good heatsink. If you mount it as close to the CAT as possible, it might survive. The Bosch LSU4.2 sensor that pretty much EVERY WBO2S uses is just not designed to be held at 1600° for a long time.
You will also find that your long term fuel trim aill lean the A/F after a while so don't go overboard when leaning out to above 12:1.
I'm running around 12:1 in a bunch of places under load, but there are some ranges that are somewhat leaner. If they don't ping, I leave them alone.
Correct A/F is not an absolute. Generally, 11.5:1 may be better, but the motor will tell you what it needs.
Is the LC-1 with O2 sensor ($199) all I need to read the AFR on the E-01? I'm also planning on getting the heatsink extender.
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Adrian-1, On the harness wiring from the E0-1 , use the White wire and the Black... And from the LM-1 use the White , splice together... And use the bare wire from the LM-1 to the Black those are the ground wires...
Just make sure to program both the Lm-1 and the E0-1 to have the same settings...
And I have My wide band sensor in the same location as you...No problems...
Just make sure to program both the Lm-1 and the E0-1 to have the same settings...
And I have My wide band sensor in the same location as you...No problems...
Thread Starter
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by Greddyturbo1
Adrian-1, On the harness wiring from the E0-1 , use the White wire and the Black... And from the LM-1 use the White , splice together... And use the bare wire from the LM-1 to the Black those are the ground wires...
Just make sure to program both the Lm-1 and the E0-1 to have the same settings...
And I have My wide band sensor in the same location as you...No problems...
Just make sure to program both the Lm-1 and the E0-1 to have the same settings...
And I have My wide band sensor in the same location as you...No problems...
Consiglieri
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From: yourI'mgirl
The LC-1 has the same sensor as the LM-1. Th LM-1 comes with that handly little box for logging. The LC-1 has programmable outputs and has the same functionality as the LM-1, just without the front end. I am logging on an E-01, so I didn't need the little box that comes with the LM-1.
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Adrian-1 , Hey I have had the LM-1 for 6mos. The LC-1 is ok , but I didn't like the location under the car for it's placement, worried about how long it will last.. The controller box on the LM-1 I like and it fits in the glove box with all my other controllers..... I know it's safe and cool there...
Consiglieri
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From: yourI'mgirl
Greddyturbo1,
So you have the LM-1 installed permanently? I'm concerned about burning it up. I have the LC-1 and the profec e-01 on the way. I will make a heat sink (though I think I'll make it with a little more surface area than Innovate suggests) and leave in it permanently. I want to keep monitoring the AFR as the ECU adjusts the LTFT. I think that will definitely help. That sounds like what happened to the guy who blew up is Renesis. THe AFR was changing due to the LTFT. Just keeping up with it and reseting the ECU would probably have prevented (I think).
-MD
So you have the LM-1 installed permanently? I'm concerned about burning it up. I have the LC-1 and the profec e-01 on the way. I will make a heat sink (though I think I'll make it with a little more surface area than Innovate suggests) and leave in it permanently. I want to keep monitoring the AFR as the ECU adjusts the LTFT. I think that will definitely help. That sounds like what happened to the guy who blew up is Renesis. THe AFR was changing due to the LTFT. Just keeping up with it and reseting the ECU would probably have prevented (I think).
-MD
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From: at work probably
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Well, try this experiment also:
Here is a picture of the air pump:
http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/misc/air_pump.jpg
Get the car good and warmed up (to the point at which this occurs) and then, if the pump is running, disconnect the air pump connector and see if it stops.
If it does, immediately reconnect it and see if it starts right back up again.
Here is a picture of the air pump:
http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/misc/air_pump.jpg
Get the car good and warmed up (to the point at which this occurs) and then, if the pump is running, disconnect the air pump connector and see if it stops.
If it does, immediately reconnect it and see if it starts right back up again.
Thanks,
rotor rider
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Markham, Ontario
Air Box solution
Originally Posted by adrian-1
1. I removed it.
2. You will have to take out the black plastic piece plus metal clamps and dremel the end facing the cabin. (pic included)
3. Philodox "glued" the 2 screens from the stock intake to the greddy airnix. (see pic) I replaced the airnix with a K&N filter and no need for the screens. K&N thread here.
4. Mine barely fit. Just crank on it. One full turn is enough to get it to stay.
2. You will have to take out the black plastic piece plus metal clamps and dremel the end facing the cabin. (pic included)
3. Philodox "glued" the 2 screens from the stock intake to the greddy airnix. (see pic) I replaced the airnix with a K&N filter and no need for the screens. K&N thread here.
4. Mine barely fit. Just crank on it. One full turn is enough to get it to stay.
I also found that the stock screen fit perfectly in the reducer sleeve from the MAFD? casting.
90% Carbon-100% Power
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From: Thessaloniki,GREECE
Does anyone else have problems with drain in the battery????I really believe that the air pump which open when it likes and runs for hours is draining my battery..This is installation problem right??Or map problem???
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From: Austin, TX
Runs for hours? The longest my airpump stayed on after shutoff was maybe 5 minutes. It shouldn't be on for hours? That would drain your battery.
The airpump staying on after the car is off is due to the new dongle Greddy released. I have replaced the emanage and dongles with the Interceptor X EMS so my airpump doesn't stay on after the engine is shutoff anymore.
Maybe somebody else can comment on this problem. I'd call up Greddy.
Did you install the new dongle yourself or was it already on when you bought the kit? Check the wiring of that dongle. The map has nothing to do with this problem since the emanage powers off whenever the ignition is off.
The airpump staying on after the car is off is due to the new dongle Greddy released. I have replaced the emanage and dongles with the Interceptor X EMS so my airpump doesn't stay on after the engine is shutoff anymore.
Maybe somebody else can comment on this problem. I'd call up Greddy.
Did you install the new dongle yourself or was it already on when you bought the kit? Check the wiring of that dongle. The map has nothing to do with this problem since the emanage powers off whenever the ignition is off.
Last edited by adrian-1; Dec 15, 2005 at 09:49 PM.
Originally Posted by rkostolni
Well I'm done! Went to start it and battery was dead. Bit of a problem considering I'm doing this install in a storage facility. Not the best idea by the way. The owner knows I'm up to something and has questioned me twice. He actually lives in the main office right next to the gate you have to go through to enter. Good thing I'm pretty much done. I think he'd flip if he opened the door and saw the little shop I have going. I had to tap into his electic lines for light and power tools!
I'll charge the battery tonight and give it a shot tomorrow.
One question. I believe the ECU fuse is labeled EGI comp 1 and EGI comp 2 in the fuse compartment under the hood. Can someone verify this is the right one to temporarily remove.
Thanks,
Ryan
I'll charge the battery tonight and give it a shot tomorrow.
One question. I believe the ECU fuse is labeled EGI comp 1 and EGI comp 2 in the fuse compartment under the hood. Can someone verify this is the right one to temporarily remove.
Thanks,
Ryan
-hS
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From: Virginia/Maryland
LOL, ya that sucked big time! I didn't even put half the **** on here I had to deal with. For instance, I got caught sneaking out of there one day at like 2 in the morning, the place closes at 9pm. The owner was pissed. He actually turned off the electricity to my unit the next day. Luckily I was almost done!
I'm not even sure what I would've done had he caught me mid install. The car couldn't even have been towed out of there since the engine mount was off and was held up with a jack.
I'm not even sure what I would've done had he caught me mid install. The car couldn't even have been towed out of there since the engine mount was off and was held up with a jack.
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Originally Posted by whatisapiston
Well my question to you turbo fellas is, What are you going to do when your rotory(known in the past to not mix well with turbos) goes out on you? And we all know slapping that greddy on there instantly voided your warranty. You gonna haul it back to your house, pull off the turbo, then call the dealer and be like: "I don't know what happened mang..." lol For real man i want to do this upgrade because its cheeeap, but damn im scared for my rotory, given its history with turbos. Im guessing that you guys havent hit 50k Miles(turbo attached) on the car. Which was the point in which the RX-7 became a grenade with no pin. If i see you guys make it past 50-60k with the turbo installed, i might think about it. Until then im going to sit back and wait for yours to detonate. All pessimism aside, because i really like you guys installs.