o wow, after purchasing the AP and HKS BOV, i may have to hold off on the CAI. At least until my funds are available again. do you think it will be a problem running without the CAI for a month or so? and just have the AP tuned to my current specs.

 

i would say that as far as surviveability of the engine it should go in this order:

1 AP
2 BOV
3 CAI

the AP might take care of all your issues, like i said, i ran my greddy without a CAI. Without the BOV you tend to overboost while not on the throttle, only to peel out as soon as you open it due to boost trapped in your intake. The CAI makes the car more drivable and runs better, but its definately not an engine killer/saver like the AP is

 

Ok thanks for the line up! I'll keep you guys updated! unless there some other things I should add to the list?

 

new couplers, BHR ignition, wastegate fix, are all good ideas if not essential. plus ways to monitor the system (EGT, boost, AFR gauges)

 

Wastegate fixed? I notice on gregs car he had upgraded to hks but wasn't sure why the upgrade. Would you mind explaining? Also for the couplers, the company vibrant was mentioned earlier on this thread. Is this the only recommended company?

 

no, I used samco, which are excellent. you need to have the wategate reading from the compresion pipe, not the manifold

 

One of the main reasons why people dumped the greddy intake was because of heat soak at idle. The 618tz turbo is not cooling anything down at idle. In hot climate states some saw upward temps of 170°-180° temps at idle. The only cooling effect over the intercooler is whatever wind flow there was at idle or slow speeds in traffic. Some were experiencing detonation because of the poor design. There are many factors of why to change the stock intake housing but the location of the filter is just as important of an issue as the other 2 mentioned.

 

the greddy got hot because people try to push 10psi through it. the e-management, overboosting, and lack of BOV destroyed many more engines than the heat did.

 

Damn 10psi? I wouldn't come close to pushing the max on my turbo. Correct me if I'm wrong but the compressor does not push enough air esp to redline. if anything i will get a greddy boost controller and have it set between 7 or 8 psi.

 

you cant just sweap the heat issue under a rug and blame everything on 10psi boosting.

I would say bad tuning and not knowing how to monitor everything would be the main cause of engine loss. You cant just slap a kit on the car and expect it to be "plug-n-play" there is a lot of preventive modifications that are needed with the greddy kit. we all know what they are as we have beaten those topics to death. Heat is an issue with this car even NA, but that being said, most people do not track the car so some of the major heat concerns are minimal in my eyes. Certainly take the time to make simple modifications like moving the intake to prevent heat soak, heat wrapping, etc.

 

This is correct. If you go and look at the Greddy Install sticky in the DIY section of the forum you will see exactly how to modify the MS/AEM intake (yes they are the exact same thing) to fit the greddy kit. This intake does come with the screens in it so the turbulence problem is solved as well.

Also. Make sure your Jet air hose and omp hose are connected properly. Brettus made a thread all about that.

 

im not saying heat isnt an issue. i am saying its not a big issue. if i had to list the top 30 failures of the greddy turbo system i would put heat because of under engine intake around 27. heat should be fixed by not overboosting, radiator, thermostat fix, and better intercooler first. the difference between CAI and underhood on a turbo shouldn't be a huge issue, and using it as a solution is a bandaid for a larger issue.

and yes the greddy can push 10psi with boost creep, which is fixed when you take the signal form the compression pipe and not the manifold. easy fix.

 

I agree with you. my suggestion was to fix the issue bc its an easy fix. The stock greddy intake sucks, not just because of heat but also bc it has no way of preventing a turbulant maf reading. This is a problem that relates directly with rough idle.

 

you know what sucks? running pig rich. damn i can't wait till i get an AP. i emailed jeff and he said that, once i get it ill be up in and running immediately on the base calibrations for greddy kit. do you guys know if this is true? i mean i hate to question someones ability to tune our cars, i just want feedback from customers like you guys.

 

his base calibration is pretty decent. I dont use it but one of the local guys here did. His car runs with great afr's

 

his base tune does run rich, but it is safe and not crippleing rich. i ran it for almost 700 miles

 

700 miles? did you get another tune with the AP or did you replace it?

 

got another tune it was a 600 mile trip when i moved, had no other vehicle at the time. i shouldnt have done it but it turned out all right and i was confident it wouldnt go lean on me at cruiseing speed

 

o ok, good to know that. ill keep it on the base tune i assume.

 

i have a quick question, has any of you guys who ran the EMU experience a sputter around 4000 rpms?

 

well if you don't have either a screen or flow straightener before the MAF it will pretty much cause a similar idle issue

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...0&postcount=17

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...w+Straightener

 

you are the ******* man!

 

how the hell does the HKS BOV fit with the c-clip piece? what kind of tool is used for it?


update
i found what i need.

 

ok, so i have everything installed. i just uploaded the MM to my car and did my logs. i notice that last night the idle was fine but when drove for a few today and came to a halt the car started to idle funny again. what could this be??

 

bump