Since none of my local hardware stores have anything useful. I'm going to order some online.
What size mesh would you recommend?

5/64", 1/8" or 3/16"

Thanks in advance for the input

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...creen+material

Link to website is provided in about post #4

 

I used some aluminum door screen material, which is 5/64" at it works perfectly. Picked up a large roll (36x84") at home depot.

 

I was screenless for the 220 rwhp dyno

.

 

The lack of a screen isnt an issue with any load on the engine. Its idle and off throttle that are giving me issues.

Ordered the Stuff from Mcmaster. Thanks for the link

 

Never caused me any issue, but it was a custom intake ...

 

speaking of intake screen both of mine were turned side ways... i didnt notice untill i took the intake off ... (aem)

 

You know what, I punched a hole in my single screen the other day on the REVi, and took it out. Butt dyno says it feels peppier than before.

 

RISE RISE RISE .......
Look it's alive...

Yeah so a bit of thread resurrection

So is anyone using anything else?
How have the door screens worked out?
Any tricks or tip about using this material?
Any particular size screen? I see 5/64 by Ngo .... any other recommendations?

Mazurfer, dude that link don't go no's where anymore .... can you summarize what I would have read?

I also found this thread
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/maf-screen-question-196017/

 

Sorry, think I purged the original thread, but this used to be the link

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...0&postcount=10

 

Thanks Team

 

EDIT: I don't think that is the same thing I previously recommended. The open area seems too low to me. I still have a piece I can measure and report back on, but it will be later this afternoon/evening

 

you might want to get this instead anyway, been thinking of ordering one myself

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...w+Straightener

 

Well, it was a two year old thread. Seems like TEAM has you covered, so............

 

HEY .. now that looks neat.
Thanks again Team

 

Thanks for checking up on me

 

here is the stainless steel woven wire screen I have purchased from McMasterCarr that closely replicates the OE intake screens, $3 for a 12" x 12" piece. I cut it into four equal pieces. Take one piece and center it over the 3.5" diameter intake/maf tube, then smash down the edge pieces around the tube, crimping it on the OD edge such that it forms a disc. I trimmed the outer edges so that an even 1/4" lip remained around the disc. I then put the screen on the tube end, slipped the tube with screen into a silicone hose connector, pushing the tube halfway into the connector and clamping the connector to the tube. It will stay in place this way.

16 x 16 woven wire 304 stainless steel mesh, 0.09" wire diameter, 73.3% open area

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9230t24/=18e3a10 part no. 9230t24

I personally consider it an intake restriction. You may want to see if something more open will still provide the same benefit. Or the honeycomb straightener linked above.

 

Thanks Team for taking the time to write all the information down.

I'm thinking I'll try the honey comb idea ... hell for the cost why not?

On the using no Maf screen subject .... I have no opinion, because I have sooo little experience.

If a tuner asked be to remove the Maf screen I prolly would ...

Maybe I'll give no Maf Screen a try once I get the car back together ... what could it hurt.

All I know is if I do run with Maf Screens ... I'm going to need a replacement solution.

Thanks again

 

That honey comb item is pretty nice. How would you keep it in place inside the tube? I am modifying an AEM for my use and I would much rather run that than stock screens.

 

check out halltechs 1/8" laminer flow stabilizer. 80% open. Its very nice.

 

MAF screen restriction is more of an issue with hot NA engines under WOT, FI can just force it through. It does provide a more stable idle, and then also corrects some of the other FI issues. The restriction is what makes it effective, the question is how little you can get away with and still get the stabilizing benefit while reaping max flow potential?

as far as mounting the honeycomb straightener linked above, from the link:



.

 

it's not a generic part though which requires adaptation and appears to roughly duplicate the generic honeycomb device already linked, and costs more too

http://www.halltechsystems.com/Hallt...r_p/hc.125.htm

 

Hey Team .. I think that link is broken...
I get this

wcs, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
2. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.

 

Yeah I get the same. Epoxy will work though. Hopefully I don't make a mess

 

It was a mistake, thread corrected (link deleted)

an industrial silicone caulk will likely work too - scuff up pipe ID with coarse sandpaper, clean tube and honecomb surfaces with acetone, glue in place, allow time to dry



.